So I think I just blew my input sprag??? Any advice? :(
#21
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The low-roller is not your problem. If the low roller has failed, 99% of the time it will put a strain or shudder in reverse. If the input spag was not replaced after the output shaft broke, then thats the problem. When the output shaft breaks, it jolts all the hard parts, and is hell on them. The sprag and low roller, along with the planets need to be replaced after a output shaft failure. I learned this from experience. But I would also tone down the shifts. Do you know how the accumulators are set up? Are they blocked off?
#22
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BUILT408 I know the planets were replace with the GM 5 pinion planets when the output shaft snapped cuz it destroyed the rear planet when it went. But i doubt he replaced the sprag as long as it looked okay when he pulled it appart.
I dont know how the accumulaters are set up nor do I know enough about 4l60's to take a guess but the 1-2 shift has always been pretty harsh even at part throttle since the performance build 2 years ago. In fact My output shaft broke right on the 1-2 shift @ wot and My rear end blew on the 1-2 shift @ 3/4 throttle.
So i'm assuming the hard shift is something that needs to be changed in the valvebody via unblocking certain accumulaters?
I dont know how the accumulaters are set up nor do I know enough about 4l60's to take a guess but the 1-2 shift has always been pretty harsh even at part throttle since the performance build 2 years ago. In fact My output shaft broke right on the 1-2 shift @ wot and My rear end blew on the 1-2 shift @ 3/4 throttle.
So i'm assuming the hard shift is something that needs to be changed in the valvebody via unblocking certain accumulaters?
#23
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Yes that is correct on the 1-2 shift. A couple of things he should be looking at. First being that he is using the least amount of washers in the 1-2 accumulator or return the springs back to the oem setup. Also that the feed hole is not larger than .093 in the separator plate. One of the biggest mistakes I see guys make with the transgo kit is that the 1-2 accumulator valve and sleeve are installed upside down. This blocks the oil when flowing through the valve body for this valve setup. I'm sure the billet servo did not help that you had in there. I feel the vet servo is just fine for most applications. Also if you have a tune where the line pressures have been modified then they need to be returned to the factory settings via computer tune. Keep in mind with that shift kit the pressures are already modified in the pump. Max pressure should be between 210-230psi. I like to see 220. A very common mistake some guys will make is to adjust the pressure with the epc solenoid higher than they should be. In most cases I find that the pressures need to be turned down to achieve the parameters that I have mentioned above. Make sure that he installs a gauge on the transmission to acquire these readings. Good luck with the repairs. Vince
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So almost two months ago I broke my Input sprag or low roller set thats undecided yet.
I haven't had the money to fix it yet since it was still driveable manually shifting it untill today merging on the freeway gave it some gas and BOOM! No foreward gears anymore but reverse still seemed to work fine (backed up about 20 feet to get off the shoulder to a safe spot on the freeway)
So after sitting on the freeway for over an hour in 100* heat with no A/C car was towed to the trans shop For diagnosis probably wont hear anything till late tomorrow, any one know what might have finally went with me having no foreward gears but reverse is still good?
I haven't had the money to fix it yet since it was still driveable manually shifting it untill today merging on the freeway gave it some gas and BOOM! No foreward gears anymore but reverse still seemed to work fine (backed up about 20 feet to get off the shoulder to a safe spot on the freeway)
So after sitting on the freeway for over an hour in 100* heat with no A/C car was towed to the trans shop For diagnosis probably wont hear anything till late tomorrow, any one know what might have finally went with me having no foreward gears but reverse is still good?
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I vote input sprag and burned up overrun frictions. Since there is only 2. Did you have 3rd if you manually shifted from 1st to 2nd and then manually shift to 3rd? If you didn't have any go in the D3 position it's because the overrun is off for 1st and 2nd but comes on when in 3rd.
Last edited by PedaltoMetal; 07-01-2009 at 07:13 PM.
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Yea I had 3rd the whole time until today. All gears seemed to work fine when manually shifting. Could only take off from a dead stop in manual 1st or 2nd then at 20mph and faster could go into 3rd and at 30mph or faster could go into 4th... If I tried hitting 3rd below 20 and 4th below 30 it just free revved... reverse always worked fine and is the only gear still working... Unfortunatly its a little diffacult to get around in reverse
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Well if you could ever get it rolling fast enough, you would still have 4th. lol
Sorry about your luck bro. Mine spit up the 3/4 frictions on my way to Nashville last year. I was able to limp in 2nd to the next exit. This all happened with my g/f of one week lol
Sorry about your luck bro. Mine spit up the 3/4 frictions on my way to Nashville last year. I was able to limp in 2nd to the next exit. This all happened with my g/f of one week lol
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Haha no **** huh so all I'd have to do is push start it to around 30 mph then pop it in 4th and I'm good to go huh? lol. Dam that sucks breaking down with ur GF of one week, Way to really impress a girl with your fast car lol!...