M6 crossmember for 4l80 swap?
#21
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RARON455, thanx a lot! Very useful ![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Jake, I'm reading on that just now, trying to understand what it is and how to measure![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Do I understand it right that angles between gearbox and driveshaft and between DS and rear end must be exactly the same and be around 2 degrees?
P.S. To measure angle of gearbox, can I use oil pan?
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Jake, I'm reading on that just now, trying to understand what it is and how to measure
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Do I understand it right that angles between gearbox and driveshaft and between DS and rear end must be exactly the same and be around 2 degrees?
P.S. To measure angle of gearbox, can I use oil pan?
#22
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You can use the engine oil pan rail.
Engine/trans angle is typically 2-4*-.
Rear diff angle will usually be 2-4*+ in stock applications but high powered setups usually will have some negative angle to zero, so that as the axle wraps up under load the angles come into their proper range under power when it is most critical.
Driveline working angle depends but for most purposes, it is what it is.
You can also find angles off the yokes, they will be square to the shafts.
Ideally you want to measure the angle before removing the stock parts and match it back when building a crossmember.
Also leave the engine/trans angled down slightly and use a shim to attain perfect angles. Easier to add shim than reweld.
Engine/trans angle is typically 2-4*-.
Rear diff angle will usually be 2-4*+ in stock applications but high powered setups usually will have some negative angle to zero, so that as the axle wraps up under load the angles come into their proper range under power when it is most critical.
Driveline working angle depends but for most purposes, it is what it is.
You can also find angles off the yokes, they will be square to the shafts.
Ideally you want to measure the angle before removing the stock parts and match it back when building a crossmember.
Also leave the engine/trans angled down slightly and use a shim to attain perfect angles. Easier to add shim than reweld.
#24
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That is the trans angled downward towards the ground, I did mine like I said in my earlier post, I then checked it using my angle finder and it was right at about 2 1/2 - 3 degrees Perfect. You use the oil pan rail Like Jake mentioned, With the engine in the car and the pan on, what you do is pull the starter off and there is a big tab that is part of the rail, Use that to set your angle gauge on, make sure it is flat and flush and take your reading. I set my 80 in using the tailshaft Center line measurement that I previously had measured, and built my crossmember to that. Before my final welding of the mount pad I double checked with my angle gauge and it checked right on. I am almost done with it, just finishing up my Torque Arm mount. I will put a write up on mine when done.
#25
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Ouch, my bad, I measured angle at tranny oil pan where it mounts to the tranny. What is very strange, I can't lift tranny tail higher than when it's 4.5" to the floor (from centerline), approx. same height as T56 was with my UMI; any higher and I start jacking the whole car (I can't find what is pushing the car up, looks like there's still plenty of space between tranny and floor. Will check by engine oil pan rail and also find what is "jamming"
regarding 2-4degrees downward to the rear, doesn't it cause oil starvation during launch? engine already tilted, than the whole car tilts more at launch, and then hard acceleration - all forces oil to the back of the pan, is that normal?
regarding 2-4degrees downward to the rear, doesn't it cause oil starvation during launch? engine already tilted, than the whole car tilts more at launch, and then hard acceleration - all forces oil to the back of the pan, is that normal?
#26
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I can go considerably higher than that with mine,, You did cut the ears off the trans right,, you need to see what is hitting, And you cant use the trans pan rail,,gotta use the engine oil pan rail.
The back of the pan is where the oil pump pickup tube is, the pickup tube is submerged under oil,,the oil is held in the sump area, Not a problem at all
The back of the pan is where the oil pump pickup tube is, the pickup tube is submerged under oil,,the oil is held in the sump area, Not a problem at all
#27
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I've cut the "ear" on the driver side of tranny, but those 2 that are for lower bellhousing are there, they are far from touching anything. Will find where it's "jamming" tonight.
Oh, if oil pickup is at the back then it's good to tilt the tranny down to the rear I guess
Oh, if oil pickup is at the back then it's good to tilt the tranny down to the rear I guess
#29
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Yes that is the tab I used,,My angle finder is about 6 inches long, got it from summit years ago, made by competition engineering, but they are all really the same. Mine sits flush on that tab. To be honest, I dont see why you cant use the balancer, It should be exactly perpendicular (square) to the crankshaft centerline, and that is the measurement the angles are referencing. The Trans shaft is on the same centerline ans the engine crankshaft.
#32
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Damn, I'm still reading on angles now... For best traction most recommend pointing rear end down 2*. With engine/tranny pointing 3* down, their relative angle is 5* and that will cause huge vibrations in daily driving (crank/output must be parallel to rear end pinion from what I read to cancel u-joint angular speed differences, from what I understood)
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Damn, I'm still reading on angles now... For best traction most recommend pointing rear end down 2*. With engine/tranny pointing 3* down, their relative angle is 5* and that will cause huge vibrations in daily driving (crank/output must be parallel to rear end pinion from what I read to cancel u-joint angular speed differences, from what I understood)
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http://www.cardomain.com/ride/822569...-camaro/page-3
Bottom of page has a few pictures. Moved it down as much as I moved it up to keep things aligned. Never had any problems, but wound up getting a deal on a BMR piece who was the only person making one a few years after I built mine. It's been a while so I'm not sure if there was a mounting height difference between the two.
I know it's rough, but I didn't have time to make it pretty at the time.
-Dustin-
Bottom of page has a few pictures. Moved it down as much as I moved it up to keep things aligned. Never had any problems, but wound up getting a deal on a BMR piece who was the only person making one a few years after I built mine. It's been a while so I'm not sure if there was a mounting height difference between the two.
I know it's rough, but I didn't have time to make it pretty at the time.
-Dustin-
Last edited by Bersaglieri; 05-29-2011 at 12:13 AM.