Quick question about stall brands
I'll sell you my 3C for $500
3500 miles and 4 track runs in a car with a lid, exhaust and slicks.
With 3.23's it regularly sees 3000 rpm accellerating normally, 2500 if I'm easy on it. Then lock up it drops down, but forget using the undampened lock up under 48 mph.
Feels like driving in mud most of the time, engine at 2500 to 3000 rpm, car not pulling much. Sure it moves when you floor it.
It actually feels like a 4c or something.
Sorry but they missed the mark on my build. I specifically said I wanted it tight down low.
A friend came over the other day with a 3600 yank, the two don't even compare. Same exact car specs too.
3500 miles and 4 track runs in a car with a lid, exhaust and slicks.
With 3.23's it regularly sees 3000 rpm accellerating normally, 2500 if I'm easy on it. Then lock up it drops down, but forget using the undampened lock up under 48 mph.
Feels like driving in mud most of the time, engine at 2500 to 3000 rpm, car not pulling much. Sure it moves when you floor it.
It actually feels like a 4c or something.
Sorry but they missed the mark on my build. I specifically said I wanted it tight down low.
A friend came over the other day with a 3600 yank, the two don't even compare. Same exact car specs too.
I just installed a 4C and it drives almost as good as stock, it actually drives better than the 3400 Performabuilt that I replaced it with, and the Performabuilt drove great also. I have 3.70 gears, but I don`t think that is enough of a difference in the 3.23. I wonder why the big difference in driveability? I have heard this with other converters also, were one converter(same stall/brand) feels tight in one car, and another will say its loose in a similar set up car. I guess it depends on the drivers perspective of loose and tight, and the cars setup.
Thats not a bad deal on your 3C, I will ask around about your converter.
Thats not a bad deal on your 3C, I will ask around about your converter.
I'll sell you my 3C for $500
3500 miles and 4 track runs in a car with a lid, exhaust and slicks.
With 3.23's it regularly sees 3000 rpm accellerating normally, 2500 if I'm easy on it. Then lock up it drops down, but forget using the undampened lock up under 48 mph.
Feels like driving in mud most of the time, engine at 2500 to 3000 rpm, car not pulling much. Sure it moves when you floor it.
It actually feels like a 4c or something.
Sorry but they missed the mark on my build. I specifically said I wanted it tight down low.
A friend came over the other day with a 3600 yank, the two don't even compare. Same exact car specs too.
3500 miles and 4 track runs in a car with a lid, exhaust and slicks.
With 3.23's it regularly sees 3000 rpm accellerating normally, 2500 if I'm easy on it. Then lock up it drops down, but forget using the undampened lock up under 48 mph.
Feels like driving in mud most of the time, engine at 2500 to 3000 rpm, car not pulling much. Sure it moves when you floor it.
It actually feels like a 4c or something.
Sorry but they missed the mark on my build. I specifically said I wanted it tight down low.
A friend came over the other day with a 3600 yank, the two don't even compare. Same exact car specs too.
Last edited by Giddswat; Jul 9, 2009 at 02:38 PM.
i would be very interested in your converter but im not going to be buying until september sometime. if you have in then ill take it off your hands.
what is the str and everything on the verter?
i can live with a loose stall. i just want the most efficient stall up top.
what is the str and everything on the verter?
i can live with a loose stall. i just want the most efficient stall up top.
Last edited by twitchtwice; Jul 9, 2009 at 01:09 PM.