Strange noise from inside bellhousing, HELP!
Strange noise from inside bellhousing, HELP! alright so between 4 and 8 months ago i installed in my garage a new Performabuilt stage 2 4l60 and a Circle D converter. to date this combo has about 2500 miles on it. All is well untill last weekend.
since then I have a strange metal on metal (kind of hollow) ticking coming from inside the bellhousing. It does it all the time but from in the car is only audiable when accelerating in drive and when the brakes are applied in reverse.
ive pulled all inspection covers including the starter and can see no scorch marks or any place two things are hitting each other. flexplate not cracked and all converter bolts are tight, i just got done checking all that about an hour ago.
with the motor running if i put my ear up to the large inspection hole that is most definately where the noise is coming from. if i kill the lights i can see no sparks or anything but can still hear the noise. all the paint on the converter still looks brand new, no scratches that i can see. ( btw, Chris if you read this, thanks for making em look so much better AFTER i bought mine)
the car runs and drives like nothing has changed, fluid levels are good, still scratches the **** outta second gear, its just got this noise.
ive looked and looked and cant find anything that remotely explains it. Im lost guys, any Ideas?
since then I have a strange metal on metal (kind of hollow) ticking coming from inside the bellhousing. It does it all the time but from in the car is only audiable when accelerating in drive and when the brakes are applied in reverse.
ive pulled all inspection covers including the starter and can see no scorch marks or any place two things are hitting each other. flexplate not cracked and all converter bolts are tight, i just got done checking all that about an hour ago.
with the motor running if i put my ear up to the large inspection hole that is most definately where the noise is coming from. if i kill the lights i can see no sparks or anything but can still hear the noise. all the paint on the converter still looks brand new, no scratches that i can see. ( btw, Chris if you read this, thanks for making em look so much better AFTER i bought mine)
the car runs and drives like nothing has changed, fluid levels are good, still scratches the **** outta second gear, its just got this noise.
ive looked and looked and cant find anything that remotely explains it. Im lost guys, any Ideas?
Banned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 34
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Make sure the converter bolts actually tightened the converter to the flexplate.
With a billet series circle d the hole is blind and too long a bolt will tighten to spec but be bottomed out in the hole. (for example using stock length bolts)
I had to shim the last converter I put in and the supplied bolts were too short, I got longer ones that were too long. They didn't pull the converter to the flexplate tight enough and it made a noise. I shortened them by 1/8" and now it's good.
Seems a rare situation with mine but you never know, maybe it's worth checking.
With a billet series circle d the hole is blind and too long a bolt will tighten to spec but be bottomed out in the hole. (for example using stock length bolts)
I had to shim the last converter I put in and the supplied bolts were too short, I got longer ones that were too long. They didn't pull the converter to the flexplate tight enough and it made a noise. I shortened them by 1/8" and now it's good.
Seems a rare situation with mine but you never know, maybe it's worth checking.
Make sure the converter bolts actually tightened the converter to the flexplate.
With a billet series circle d the hole is blind and too long a bolt will tighten to spec but be bottomed out in the hole. (for example using stock length bolts)
I had to shim the last converter I put in and the supplied bolts were too short, I got longer ones that were too long. They didn't pull the converter to the flexplate tight enough and it made a noise. I shortened them by 1/8" and now it's good.
Seems a rare situation with mine but you never know, maybe it's worth checking.
With a billet series circle d the hole is blind and too long a bolt will tighten to spec but be bottomed out in the hole. (for example using stock length bolts)
I had to shim the last converter I put in and the supplied bolts were too short, I got longer ones that were too long. They didn't pull the converter to the flexplate tight enough and it made a noise. I shortened them by 1/8" and now it's good.
Seems a rare situation with mine but you never know, maybe it's worth checking.
Im also gonna give Chris Mad Props because he came through with a brand new SFI 29.1 flexplate for me this afternoon. I dont see anything wrong with the stocker but by proccess of elimination its either the flexplate or converter. Talked to Chris and we both agree my FP is done but either way the trans comes out so im doing that now.
Im going to magnaflux the stock FP to make sure my suspisions, if i dont find a crack then ill check it with a proccess called Liquid Penetrant ( use it all the time at work, im a welder) if still no crack the ill let Circle D check the converter.
Ive seen how they make there converters though, that M*** F**** is a fortress to top all fortress's and im 1000% sure is the FP and i just cant see the fracture.
Either way, the car is off the ground already and prob tomorrow the trans comes out so we shall see. Once again thanks to Chris and Circle D Specialty's for coming through in a pinch. Im so glad i went with him, service has been top notch.....
Banned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 34
Likes: 0
Lucky you, I've dealt with Chris too and he's a great guy (I never had a problem, just ordered a converter and later got some advice)
I wish I lived down the road from the shop
Thats great that you're going to do all that to the old flexplate, I bet not many have magnafluxed one. If you report back what you find it might help a lot of people out by telling them how hard some cracks are to see.
Good Luck, hope you get it right.
I wish I lived down the road from the shop
Thats great that you're going to do all that to the old flexplate, I bet not many have magnafluxed one. If you report back what you find it might help a lot of people out by telling them how hard some cracks are to see.
Good Luck, hope you get it right.
Lucky you, I've dealt with Chris too and he's a great guy (I never had a problem, just ordered a converter and later got some advice)
I wish I lived down the road from the shop
Thats great that you're going to do all that to the old flexplate, I bet not many have magnafluxed one. If you report back what you find it might help a lot of people out by telling them how hard some cracks are to see.
Good Luck, hope you get it right.
I wish I lived down the road from the shop
Thats great that you're going to do all that to the old flexplate, I bet not many have magnafluxed one. If you report back what you find it might help a lot of people out by telling them how hard some cracks are to see.
Good Luck, hope you get it right.
Ah ****. Just pulled the Flexplate and i dont see a crack. taking it to work this evening to find out for sure, just cuz i dont see a crack doesnt mean it aint there. Ill keep yall updated.
weeeeeeeeeelllllllllllllllllllll. Its not the converter, its not the flexplate, its not the FP touching the starter. im out of ideas.lol. btw i LP'd the flexplate two different ways, its fine.
But, because my beer is half full, i got a brand new SFI FP, and had Chris re-stall my converter a lil higher
Anybody got a suggestion on something to check? if not im just going to put it all back together and see what happens
But, because my beer is half full, i got a brand new SFI FP, and had Chris re-stall my converter a lil higher
Anybody got a suggestion on something to check? if not im just going to put it all back together and see what happens
