how long has your RMVB th400 w/brake lasted on the street? (miles)
11-17-2009, 06:35 PM
#61
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Thanks guys who gave input!!! I appreciate it alot! Im sure alot of others will also!
AND I AGREE THIS NEEDS TO BE IN THE STICKY!!! It could save some people from making HUGE mistakes...
AND I AGREE THIS NEEDS TO BE IN THE STICKY!!! It could save some people from making HUGE mistakes...
11-18-2009, 10:47 PM
#62
What do you do when your taxiing in the pits etc.... coming up to the water box? Leave it in 1st and go really slow? Load it up against the brakes?
What should be done if you get into a traffic jam and have to creep up every few seconds etc?
On the return road going a max of 15 mph should we just use 3rd and slip the converter?
What should be done if you get into a traffic jam and have to creep up every few seconds etc?
On the return road going a max of 15 mph should we just use 3rd and slip the converter?
12-03-2009, 08:14 PM
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ok so I guess i just dont understand why i cant coast in second or first... its not like im spinning at 6000rpm in first or second and letting off the throttle.
idk i have just been driving in the gear that feels the best for the situation... nobody seems to have a good reason why not to.... so i guess if my tranny dies ill know why.
whish someone that knew could get on here an THUROUGHLY explain HOW to drive a rmvb th400 on the street and EXPLAIN why.
idk i have just been driving in the gear that feels the best for the situation... nobody seems to have a good reason why not to.... so i guess if my tranny dies ill know why.
whish someone that knew could get on here an THUROUGHLY explain HOW to drive a rmvb th400 on the street and EXPLAIN why.
12-03-2009, 09:36 PM
#68
ok so I guess i just dont understand why i cant coast in second or first... its not like im spinning at 6000rpm in first or second and letting off the throttle.
idk i have just been driving in the gear that feels the best for the situation... nobody seems to have a good reason why not to.... so i guess if my tranny dies ill know why.
whish someone that knew could get on here an THUROUGHLY explain HOW to drive a rmvb th400 on the street and EXPLAIN why.
idk i have just been driving in the gear that feels the best for the situation... nobody seems to have a good reason why not to.... so i guess if my tranny dies ill know why.
whish someone that knew could get on here an THUROUGHLY explain HOW to drive a rmvb th400 on the street and EXPLAIN why.
Bullet #3 & 4
http://www.rosslertrans.com/Safety.html
12-03-2009, 10:51 PM
#69
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3 speed and overdrive transmissions: Caution never shift into neutral position at high speeds. This will cause internal components of the transmission to rotate 2 and ½ times faster than your finish line RPM. (Example, If your car’s finish line RPM is 7,500 RPM’S and the Transmission is shifted to neutral then the internal components will spin at 15,000 RPM’s THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS! The parts are spinning so fast, they can explode, turning your transmission into a shrapnel type bomb possibly causing bodily injury and death.
On full competition transmissions with manual valve bodies or transmission brake down shifting to second will cause the same reaction. This also is very dangerous and not recommended. Here is some good info! thanks!
12-05-2009, 04:58 PM
#71
I will throw my 2 cents in since I am an Old School builder, (30 years) when the 400 was, and is still the King of Power.
You saw the pics of the hole in the case AND the floor of the car. People have been hurt and killed in the past from the Grenade Effect, which mandated the Trans Blanket or Sheild. How many of you are running one? If you are not running at the track, you may not know how Dangerous it is, you won't have to comply with that rule, or expense. What is your life worth or the life of your passenger(s), and the liability afterword? Most of you won't spend the money on the Billet Parts that can withstand the 15-18,000RPM internal speeds. The cast parts were and are not intended to run that high. Back in the day the 727 Mopar Tranny was famous for coming apart as the drums are Thinner than the 400, and the Hemis could really turn the RPM's.
Next, I always gave paperwork and explained the Rules on "How To Operate the Trans". I felt it was part of what the customer pays for, and the Safety Factor as I CARE. Personally, I would run the trans up in 1rst gear LIGHTLY to break the tires loose, quickly shift into 2nd, then 3rd to heat the slicks or tires. At the end of the run, leave the trans in high, (3rd), then come to a stop-then downshift. THIS SHOULD BE DONE ON THE STREET. Remember, this trans is for RACING. There should never be a reason to downshift, not to slow down, or even to pass as the stall converter will put the engine in the Power Range to accelerate in high gear. Remember, you have Big Power. How fast do you need to pass some one-let alone scare the Hell out of them when you do? If you want a trans for the street, build it accordingly. They can be built for big power with all the amenities.
Back in the day, a FAST CAR was a 10-12 second car. Today, it is in the 7's, 8's, and 9's. Equating to 1000 + HP. Double and even triple that of the past. Your first thought MUST BE ABOUT SAFETY!! Your car will accelerate to 100MPH in a couple of seconds. Imagine pieces exploding and hitting people in the car next to you, on the sidewalk, or the trans fluid getting under the tires and you loosing control while you are trying to recover from the LOUD EXPLOSION that just happened. You will be disoriented for sure. All because you threw it neutral or downshifted the trans.
This might be a little radical in thinking, but you asked. As a professional, I am paid to think of the things the customer is too excited not to. He/she just wants to go FAST!
The RMVB Trans can be run for years, WITH the proper maintainance, knowledge, and respect of those in and around the vehicle. I ran mine for years. Remember, it's all we had back then. Tall tires are the cure to many of the high RPM problems, even today. The young guys here seem to fight this thinking, but the tall tires not only help but are part of the tuning and set-up. That truely will never change. Besides, it looks better. (Just my opinion). Disclaimer: DR and Tires are far better today than ever before for traction. If you like you can run a short tire with the right gear set to get the best RPM range for your liking.
Basic Rules:
Knowledge is power-know what you are buying, how it is supposed to work, and the safety for the part.
Get a Racing Rule Book-any sanctioning body, NHRA is the most stringent, I believe. If it is good in a controlled situation, it's really good for the street.
Never "cheap out" when you are REENGINEERING your vehicle to go faster than intended from the factory. Get the "best bang for the buck" for the parts you are purchasing. The Safety Factor goes out the window when you go cheap. Respect the innocents!
This goes for EVERY PART YOU BUY TO GO FAST!! Being Cheap is being Selfish! It won't hit home until a Loved One is hurt or worse. I did not make that Rule, but I adhear to it. When you want to run with the Big Dogs, you shop where they do. They ran fast before you did. There is a reason for it. If you can't afford it, wait or find a new hobby.
A Trans is like a shot gun. In the wrong hands it is Dangerous.
Enjoy your RMVB Trans. Hopefully, this answers some of your questions, and helps you think of things you may not.
Thanks to Performa and the others (One Bad LS1) for their valuable info.
You saw the pics of the hole in the case AND the floor of the car. People have been hurt and killed in the past from the Grenade Effect, which mandated the Trans Blanket or Sheild. How many of you are running one? If you are not running at the track, you may not know how Dangerous it is, you won't have to comply with that rule, or expense. What is your life worth or the life of your passenger(s), and the liability afterword? Most of you won't spend the money on the Billet Parts that can withstand the 15-18,000RPM internal speeds. The cast parts were and are not intended to run that high. Back in the day the 727 Mopar Tranny was famous for coming apart as the drums are Thinner than the 400, and the Hemis could really turn the RPM's.
Next, I always gave paperwork and explained the Rules on "How To Operate the Trans". I felt it was part of what the customer pays for, and the Safety Factor as I CARE. Personally, I would run the trans up in 1rst gear LIGHTLY to break the tires loose, quickly shift into 2nd, then 3rd to heat the slicks or tires. At the end of the run, leave the trans in high, (3rd), then come to a stop-then downshift. THIS SHOULD BE DONE ON THE STREET. Remember, this trans is for RACING. There should never be a reason to downshift, not to slow down, or even to pass as the stall converter will put the engine in the Power Range to accelerate in high gear. Remember, you have Big Power. How fast do you need to pass some one-let alone scare the Hell out of them when you do? If you want a trans for the street, build it accordingly. They can be built for big power with all the amenities.
Back in the day, a FAST CAR was a 10-12 second car. Today, it is in the 7's, 8's, and 9's. Equating to 1000 + HP. Double and even triple that of the past. Your first thought MUST BE ABOUT SAFETY!! Your car will accelerate to 100MPH in a couple of seconds. Imagine pieces exploding and hitting people in the car next to you, on the sidewalk, or the trans fluid getting under the tires and you loosing control while you are trying to recover from the LOUD EXPLOSION that just happened. You will be disoriented for sure. All because you threw it neutral or downshifted the trans.
This might be a little radical in thinking, but you asked. As a professional, I am paid to think of the things the customer is too excited not to. He/she just wants to go FAST!
The RMVB Trans can be run for years, WITH the proper maintainance, knowledge, and respect of those in and around the vehicle. I ran mine for years. Remember, it's all we had back then. Tall tires are the cure to many of the high RPM problems, even today. The young guys here seem to fight this thinking, but the tall tires not only help but are part of the tuning and set-up. That truely will never change. Besides, it looks better. (Just my opinion). Disclaimer: DR and Tires are far better today than ever before for traction. If you like you can run a short tire with the right gear set to get the best RPM range for your liking.
Basic Rules:
Knowledge is power-know what you are buying, how it is supposed to work, and the safety for the part.
Get a Racing Rule Book-any sanctioning body, NHRA is the most stringent, I believe. If it is good in a controlled situation, it's really good for the street.
Never "cheap out" when you are REENGINEERING your vehicle to go faster than intended from the factory. Get the "best bang for the buck" for the parts you are purchasing. The Safety Factor goes out the window when you go cheap. Respect the innocents!
This goes for EVERY PART YOU BUY TO GO FAST!! Being Cheap is being Selfish! It won't hit home until a Loved One is hurt or worse. I did not make that Rule, but I adhear to it. When you want to run with the Big Dogs, you shop where they do. They ran fast before you did. There is a reason for it. If you can't afford it, wait or find a new hobby.
A Trans is like a shot gun. In the wrong hands it is Dangerous.
Enjoy your RMVB Trans. Hopefully, this answers some of your questions, and helps you think of things you may not.
Thanks to Performa and the others (One Bad LS1) for their valuable info.
12-05-2009, 07:29 PM
#72
Nice post..... Some good things to think about.
Unfortunately it is easy to buy race parts without the knowledge of how to use them safely in a street application. Good info to have before finding out the hard way.
I've downshifted RMVB cars but only at low speeds (like 20mph) & applied a bit of throttle to keep the trans from freewheeling. Not sure it is a good thing to do (nor would I recommend it to someone else.... you know the do as I say, not as I do type of thing), but I never had a problem.
I would always recommend a trans blanket or shield in one of these applications. As mentioned above, it can save your or your passengers feet or even more important parts.
Unfortunately it is easy to buy race parts without the knowledge of how to use them safely in a street application. Good info to have before finding out the hard way.
I've downshifted RMVB cars but only at low speeds (like 20mph) & applied a bit of throttle to keep the trans from freewheeling. Not sure it is a good thing to do (nor would I recommend it to someone else.... you know the do as I say, not as I do type of thing), but I never had a problem.
I would always recommend a trans blanket or shield in one of these applications. As mentioned above, it can save your or your passengers feet or even more important parts.
12-06-2009, 04:55 PM
#79
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This is what we were all looking for. I want to say thank you for adding that post. It saves alot of confusion for us that are not very familiar in running a RVMB th400.
Now if i can get someone to post that into the th400 sticky! This info is MANDATORY to know.
Thanks!
Now if i can get someone to post that into the th400 sticky! This info is MANDATORY to know.
Thanks!
12-07-2009, 09:44 PM
#80
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ok i have a ? lets say im about to race. ok i take off in 1st then shift second and i get a lil traction problem and have to come off gas in second? do i have to go ahead and shift into 3rd anyway since im bout to cruise the rest of the way down track, or can i stay in second till i come to a complete stop?