how long has your RMVB th400 w/brake lasted on the street? (miles)
12-07-2009, 10:19 PM
#81
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ok i have a ? lets say im about to race. ok i take off in 1st then shift second and i get a lil traction problem and have to come off gas in second? do i have to go ahead and shift into 3rd anyway since im bout to cruise the rest of the way down track, or can i stay in second till i come to a complete stop?
12-08-2009, 11:11 AM
#83
If you have issues like traction, you aren't going fast enough to hurt anything peddling the car off the line. Get control, or traction in this case, and either finish the run under full power or depending on your speed, (say you had just shifted to 2nd gear and the car gets loose and you HAVE to lift), GET CONTROL. (Lives and the Car as a whole are the important things to save...the Trans, if it gets hurt is much less expensive). Then get into high gear and cruise to the end. There would be no reason to stay in 2nd gear for the rest of the run.
These are great questions. These scenarios happen at an instant! Our fear of the unknown can make a person panic and choose the wrong way out. Some of us are lucky enough to have the natural skill to control the unforseen at a moments notice. Ashley Force had a front row seat with the best teacher in the world her whole life, and she still hit the wall trying to win. We don't have to "Win at All Costs"...as we don't have that kind of budget or sponsor to answer to. But we can learn from Great Forums like this how to Save our parts, Choose the right path, and so on. Many of us are new to REALLY FAST VEHICLES and have had no experience with them. I would suggest part of the responsibilty would be to look into a Driving School. They not only explain some of these issues, but also teach you how to save parts, (such as the RMVB Trans'). A few thousand dollars and a few days of your time will put you Light Years ahead of your competition, and protect those around you. Remember... Knowledge is Power.
These are great questions. These scenarios happen at an instant! Our fear of the unknown can make a person panic and choose the wrong way out. Some of us are lucky enough to have the natural skill to control the unforseen at a moments notice. Ashley Force had a front row seat with the best teacher in the world her whole life, and she still hit the wall trying to win. We don't have to "Win at All Costs"...as we don't have that kind of budget or sponsor to answer to. But we can learn from Great Forums like this how to Save our parts, Choose the right path, and so on. Many of us are new to REALLY FAST VEHICLES and have had no experience with them. I would suggest part of the responsibilty would be to look into a Driving School. They not only explain some of these issues, but also teach you how to save parts, (such as the RMVB Trans'). A few thousand dollars and a few days of your time will put you Light Years ahead of your competition, and protect those around you. Remember... Knowledge is Power.
12-09-2009, 11:44 PM
#85
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If you have issues like traction, you aren't going fast enough to hurt anything peddling the car off the line. Get control, or traction in this case, and either finish the run under full power or depending on your speed, (say you had just shifted to 2nd gear and the car gets loose and you HAVE to lift), GET CONTROL. (Lives and the Car as a whole are the important things to save...the Trans, if it gets hurt is much less expensive). Then get into high gear and cruise to the end. There would be no reason to stay in 2nd gear for the rest of the run.
These are great questions. These scenarios happen at an instant! Our fear of the unknown can make a person panic and choose the wrong way out. Some of us are lucky enough to have the natural skill to control the unforseen at a moments notice. Ashley Force had a front row seat with the best teacher in the world her whole life, and she still hit the wall trying to win. We don't have to "Win at All Costs"...as we don't have that kind of budget or sponsor to answer to. But we can learn from Great Forums like this how to Save our parts, Choose the right path, and so on. Many of us are new to REALLY FAST VEHICLES and have had no experience with them. I would suggest part of the responsibilty would be to look into a Driving School. They not only explain some of these issues, but also teach you how to save parts, (such as the RMVB Trans'). A few thousand dollars and a few days of your time will put you Light Years ahead of your competition, and protect those around you. Remember... Knowledge is Power.
These are great questions. These scenarios happen at an instant! Our fear of the unknown can make a person panic and choose the wrong way out. Some of us are lucky enough to have the natural skill to control the unforseen at a moments notice. Ashley Force had a front row seat with the best teacher in the world her whole life, and she still hit the wall trying to win. We don't have to "Win at All Costs"...as we don't have that kind of budget or sponsor to answer to. But we can learn from Great Forums like this how to Save our parts, Choose the right path, and so on. Many of us are new to REALLY FAST VEHICLES and have had no experience with them. I would suggest part of the responsibilty would be to look into a Driving School. They not only explain some of these issues, but also teach you how to save parts, (such as the RMVB Trans'). A few thousand dollars and a few days of your time will put you Light Years ahead of your competition, and protect those around you. Remember... Knowledge is Power.
02-14-2010, 12:11 AM
#86
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3 speed and overdrive transmissions: Caution never shift into neutral position at high speeds. This will cause internal components of the transmission to rotate 2 and ½ times faster than your finish line RPM. (Example, If your car’s finish line RPM is 7,500 RPM’S and the Transmission is shifted to neutral then the internal components will spin at 15,000 RPM’s THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS! The parts are spinning so fast, they can explode, turning your transmission into a shrapnel type bomb possibly causing bodily injury and death.
On full competition transmissions with manual valve bodies or transmission brake down shifting to second will cause the same reaction. This also is very dangerous and not recommended. Here is some good info! thanks!
02-14-2010, 12:43 AM
#87
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just out of curiosity if it spins at 7500 when shifted into neutral and the components spin 2.5 times faster wouldnt it be at 18,750 not 15,000? not trying to bust your ***** i know its a quote from that site but im trying to figure out if it spins 2 or 2.5 times faster
02-18-2010, 06:13 PM
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I will throw my 2 cents in since I am an Old School builder, (30 years) when the 400 was, and is still the King of Power.
You saw the pics of the hole in the case AND the floor of the car. People have been hurt and killed in the past from the Grenade Effect, which mandated the Trans Blanket or Sheild. How many of you are running one? If you are not running at the track, you may not know how Dangerous it is, you won't have to comply with that rule, or expense. What is your life worth or the life of your passenger(s), and the liability afterword? Most of you won't spend the money on the Billet Parts that can withstand the 15-18,000RPM internal speeds. The cast parts were and are not intended to run that high. Back in the day the 727 Mopar Tranny was famous for coming apart as the drums are Thinner than the 400, and the Hemis could really turn the RPM's.
Next, I always gave paperwork and explained the Rules on "How To Operate the Trans". I felt it was part of what the customer pays for, and the Safety Factor as I CARE. Personally, I would run the trans up in 1rst gear LIGHTLY to break the tires loose, quickly shift into 2nd, then 3rd to heat the slicks or tires. At the end of the run, leave the trans in high, (3rd), then come to a stop-then downshift. THIS SHOULD BE DONE ON THE STREET. Remember, this trans is for RACING. There should never be a reason to downshift, not to slow down, or even to pass as the stall converter will put the engine in the Power Range to accelerate in high gear. Remember, you have Big Power. How fast do you need to pass some one-let alone scare the Hell out of them when you do? If you want a trans for the street, build it accordingly. They can be built for big power with all the amenities.
Back in the day, a FAST CAR was a 10-12 second car. Today, it is in the 7's, 8's, and 9's. Equating to 1000 + HP. Double and even triple that of the past. Your first thought MUST BE ABOUT SAFETY!! Your car will accelerate to 100MPH in a couple of seconds. Imagine pieces exploding and hitting people in the car next to you, on the sidewalk, or the trans fluid getting under the tires and you loosing control while you are trying to recover from the LOUD EXPLOSION that just happened. You will be disoriented for sure. All because you threw it neutral or downshifted the trans.
This might be a little radical in thinking, but you asked. As a professional, I am paid to think of the things the customer is too excited not to. He/she just wants to go FAST!
The RMVB Trans can be run for years, WITH the proper maintainance, knowledge, and respect of those in and around the vehicle. I ran mine for years. Remember, it's all we had back then. Tall tires are the cure to many of the high RPM problems, even today. The young guys here seem to fight this thinking, but the tall tires not only help but are part of the tuning and set-up. That truely will never change. Besides, it looks better. (Just my opinion). Disclaimer: DR and Tires are far better today than ever before for traction. If you like you can run a short tire with the right gear set to get the best RPM range for your liking.
Basic Rules:
Knowledge is power-know what you are buying, how it is supposed to work, and the safety for the part.
Get a Racing Rule Book-any sanctioning body, NHRA is the most stringent, I believe. If it is good in a controlled situation, it's really good for the street.
Never "cheap out" when you are REENGINEERING your vehicle to go faster than intended from the factory. Get the "best bang for the buck" for the parts you are purchasing. The Safety Factor goes out the window when you go cheap. Respect the innocents!
This goes for EVERY PART YOU BUY TO GO FAST!! Being Cheap is being Selfish! It won't hit home until a Loved One is hurt or worse. I did not make that Rule, but I adhear to it. When you want to run with the Big Dogs, you shop where they do. They ran fast before you did. There is a reason for it. If you can't afford it, wait or find a new hobby.
A Trans is like a shot gun. In the wrong hands it is Dangerous.
Enjoy your RMVB Trans. Hopefully, this answers some of your questions, and helps you think of things you may not.
Thanks to Performa and the others (One Bad LS1) for their valuable info.
You saw the pics of the hole in the case AND the floor of the car. People have been hurt and killed in the past from the Grenade Effect, which mandated the Trans Blanket or Sheild. How many of you are running one? If you are not running at the track, you may not know how Dangerous it is, you won't have to comply with that rule, or expense. What is your life worth or the life of your passenger(s), and the liability afterword? Most of you won't spend the money on the Billet Parts that can withstand the 15-18,000RPM internal speeds. The cast parts were and are not intended to run that high. Back in the day the 727 Mopar Tranny was famous for coming apart as the drums are Thinner than the 400, and the Hemis could really turn the RPM's.
Next, I always gave paperwork and explained the Rules on "How To Operate the Trans". I felt it was part of what the customer pays for, and the Safety Factor as I CARE. Personally, I would run the trans up in 1rst gear LIGHTLY to break the tires loose, quickly shift into 2nd, then 3rd to heat the slicks or tires. At the end of the run, leave the trans in high, (3rd), then come to a stop-then downshift. THIS SHOULD BE DONE ON THE STREET. Remember, this trans is for RACING. There should never be a reason to downshift, not to slow down, or even to pass as the stall converter will put the engine in the Power Range to accelerate in high gear. Remember, you have Big Power. How fast do you need to pass some one-let alone scare the Hell out of them when you do? If you want a trans for the street, build it accordingly. They can be built for big power with all the amenities.
Back in the day, a FAST CAR was a 10-12 second car. Today, it is in the 7's, 8's, and 9's. Equating to 1000 + HP. Double and even triple that of the past. Your first thought MUST BE ABOUT SAFETY!! Your car will accelerate to 100MPH in a couple of seconds. Imagine pieces exploding and hitting people in the car next to you, on the sidewalk, or the trans fluid getting under the tires and you loosing control while you are trying to recover from the LOUD EXPLOSION that just happened. You will be disoriented for sure. All because you threw it neutral or downshifted the trans.
This might be a little radical in thinking, but you asked. As a professional, I am paid to think of the things the customer is too excited not to. He/she just wants to go FAST!
The RMVB Trans can be run for years, WITH the proper maintainance, knowledge, and respect of those in and around the vehicle. I ran mine for years. Remember, it's all we had back then. Tall tires are the cure to many of the high RPM problems, even today. The young guys here seem to fight this thinking, but the tall tires not only help but are part of the tuning and set-up. That truely will never change. Besides, it looks better. (Just my opinion). Disclaimer: DR and Tires are far better today than ever before for traction. If you like you can run a short tire with the right gear set to get the best RPM range for your liking.
Basic Rules:
Knowledge is power-know what you are buying, how it is supposed to work, and the safety for the part.
Get a Racing Rule Book-any sanctioning body, NHRA is the most stringent, I believe. If it is good in a controlled situation, it's really good for the street.
Never "cheap out" when you are REENGINEERING your vehicle to go faster than intended from the factory. Get the "best bang for the buck" for the parts you are purchasing. The Safety Factor goes out the window when you go cheap. Respect the innocents!
This goes for EVERY PART YOU BUY TO GO FAST!! Being Cheap is being Selfish! It won't hit home until a Loved One is hurt or worse. I did not make that Rule, but I adhear to it. When you want to run with the Big Dogs, you shop where they do. They ran fast before you did. There is a reason for it. If you can't afford it, wait or find a new hobby.
A Trans is like a shot gun. In the wrong hands it is Dangerous.
Enjoy your RMVB Trans. Hopefully, this answers some of your questions, and helps you think of things you may not.
Thanks to Performa and the others (One Bad LS1) for their valuable info.
03-29-2010, 03:41 PM
#94
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hmmm, I am new to the TH400 and this is a good read. I am curious now, how can I tell the difference from a RVMB and an auto... this will be the first auto I have ever owned...
-Garrett
-Garrett
03-29-2010, 07:44 PM
#95
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regular th400 PRN321
RMVB th400 PRN123
no th400 came from facotry that i know of, they have to have the "Reverse Manual Valve Body" installed, and while thats being installed might as well have a transbrake installed!!! lol
Been a while since i started this thread, i have put alot of street miles on mine no problem... and i love my B&M ratchet shifter and transbrake!
RMVB th400 PRN123
no th400 came from facotry that i know of, they have to have the "Reverse Manual Valve Body" installed, and while thats being installed might as well have a transbrake installed!!! lol
Been a while since i started this thread, i have put alot of street miles on mine no problem... and i love my B&M ratchet shifter and transbrake!
03-29-2010, 07:49 PM
#96
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This is what the ad says, and I am wanting to go look at it, but I am not sure which casting I am looking for:
THM 400 trans
not run since professional rebuild
mild shift kit installed
no converter
great for high horsepower build.
Call or email, lowballers will be ignored
$350
not run since professional rebuild
mild shift kit installed
no converter
great for high horsepower build.
Call or email, lowballers will be ignored
$350
03-29-2010, 08:59 PM
#98
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what kinda power are you looking to put to it??? goals???
I would pass on that trans and look for a deal in the classifieds...
this is my setup, might be overkill for your goals maybee not.... look for something like this and do it once!
I would pass on that trans and look for a deal in the classifieds...
this is my setup, might be overkill for your goals maybee not.... look for something like this and do it once!
03-29-2010, 10:30 PM
#99
regular th400 PRN321
RMVB th400 PRN123
no th400 came from facotry that i know of, they have to have the "Reverse Manual Valve Body" installed, and while thats being installed might as well have a transbrake installed!!! lol
Been a while since i started this thread, i have put alot of street miles on mine no problem... and i love my B&M ratchet shifter and transbrake!
RMVB th400 PRN123
no th400 came from facotry that i know of, they have to have the "Reverse Manual Valve Body" installed, and while thats being installed might as well have a transbrake installed!!! lol
Been a while since i started this thread, i have put alot of street miles on mine no problem... and i love my B&M ratchet shifter and transbrake!
04-15-2010, 09:15 PM
#100
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Little old, but alot of good info in one spot. I have been running a stock th400 for awhile and liked it. Thing is with the stock form it had a long delay between shifts, but still did ok. ( im sure it effected my ET a decent amount)
Well now i have th400 rmvb / trans brake ( not wired in yet ) and 2400 B&M Holeshot converter ( just for a starter)
So far the trans works awesome! Love how quick and firm the shifts are. BUT when i am going in reverse, i have to rev the motor to like 3k+ to get the car to go back?? Does that have something to do with the trans brake not being wired in?
Would i have to hold the trans brake down and then go into reverse or is that stall just THAT loose in reverse???
Well now i have th400 rmvb / trans brake ( not wired in yet ) and 2400 B&M Holeshot converter ( just for a starter)
So far the trans works awesome! Love how quick and firm the shifts are. BUT when i am going in reverse, i have to rev the motor to like 3k+ to get the car to go back?? Does that have something to do with the trans brake not being wired in?
Would i have to hold the trans brake down and then go into reverse or is that stall just THAT loose in reverse???
