Lightweight Flexplate
Lightweight Flexplate I am interested in getting a lightweight flexplate; something with a low moment of inertia. Where can I buy one that is lighter than the OEM unit? Please don't give me advice geared towards drag racing. I don't drag race, and am making the best of it, until I get my Jerico 5 speed that I want. I hate to have to make a flexplate, but am up to it if I have to. I looked at the TCI and Yanks, but they are heavier. So the info and tips are much appreciated. Thanks.
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Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 521
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From: Farmingdale NJ
The newer design (01+) flexplates might be a bit lighter than the older ones, but I only say that because they are prone to BREAKING. Quite honestly a flexplate can only be made so light, it has a pretty tough job to do. If you're really concerned with saving a few OUNCES (they don't weigh much to begin with, that's about all you'll save) go with a different converter. I know you don't drag race but they can save 15 or more POUNDS over stock.
Sure you can make it a little thinner, but then you have to worry about the flexplate, uh, "flexing" too much and the converter walking in and out of the trans. Hello pump failure. And centrifigual force? Goodbye kneecaps!
Have you considered an ASP crank pully or anything else to cut rotating weight? IS your car a 3.23 car or 2.73? If it's a 2.73 car you can swap in an aluminum driveshaft from a 3.23 car and save a few lbs. I think saving a few ounces in the flexplate is the WRONG place to start, but that's just my opinion. The benefits will in no way justify the expense, aggrivation, and risk.
I know this probably isn't the answer you're looking for but this is just my honest opinion. If there IS a company out there making such things I'd be very surprised, and very cautious. Most of the automatics you find in racing are drag cars, so not surprisingly that's what kind of performance automatic parts you will find for them.
Sure you can make it a little thinner, but then you have to worry about the flexplate, uh, "flexing" too much and the converter walking in and out of the trans. Hello pump failure. And centrifigual force? Goodbye kneecaps!
Have you considered an ASP crank pully or anything else to cut rotating weight? IS your car a 3.23 car or 2.73? If it's a 2.73 car you can swap in an aluminum driveshaft from a 3.23 car and save a few lbs. I think saving a few ounces in the flexplate is the WRONG place to start, but that's just my opinion. The benefits will in no way justify the expense, aggrivation, and risk.
I know this probably isn't the answer you're looking for but this is just my honest opinion. If there IS a company out there making such things I'd be very surprised, and very cautious. Most of the automatics you find in racing are drag cars, so not surprisingly that's what kind of performance automatic parts you will find for them.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5
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Moments of inertia Check out www.reactorproducts.com i believe that they are approx 4 lbs .
Hope this helps
Hope this helps
I suggest getting a SFI flexplate from one of our sponsors.
Take it from someone that's had a flexplate fail.. it's not worth it to skimp here.
The 98-99 Flexplates are plenty light and strong.. But the late 00 and up GM "lightweight" flexplates are worthless IMO. When they break, they can create a TON of damage (as I to well know).
If your looking for lightweight.. go with a smaller converter. The smaller and lighter converters will give the "gain" your looking for without compromizing safety.
Take it from someone that's had a flexplate fail.. it's not worth it to skimp here.
The 98-99 Flexplates are plenty light and strong.. But the late 00 and up GM "lightweight" flexplates are worthless IMO. When they break, they can create a TON of damage (as I to well know).
If your looking for lightweight.. go with a smaller converter. The smaller and lighter converters will give the "gain" your looking for without compromizing safety.
My car is a factory 1LE, so it has the aluminum driveshaft and 3.23 rear gears, and the rest of that neat stuff. I think you guys have a point on the flexplate being lightened so much. You've got me thinking on the converter. I am looking for a smaller converter (furnace brazed fins and all) that has a stock stall speed. What's a good model to go with. I haven't heard alot of good things as far as quality goes, about the big names. So please point me in a good direction on who to go with in a converter.
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Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Further South than Hell
I know what Wilwaxu means. I had a stock 01 flywheel fail and luckily it was the only thing destroyed. Well a few milli inches of starter teeth too. When I got a TCI SSF 3500, I replaced it (Another stock) with a TCI one.
Originally Posted by sawedoff
My car is a factory 1LE, so it has the aluminum driveshaft and 3.23 rear gears, and the rest of that neat stuff. I think you guys have a point on the flexplate being lightened so much. You've got me thinking on the converter. I am looking for a smaller converter (furnace brazed fins and all) that has a stock stall speed. What's a good model to go with. I haven't heard alot of good things as far as quality goes, about the big names. So please point me in a good direction on who to go with in a converter.
A aftermarket converter is the single most bang for buck mod you can do to an LS1 car!
You should look at one with at least a 3500 stall rating.
IMO: If your looking to go fast in a straight line, there is nothing better than a Yank TP-4400.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Farmingdale NJ
If you're looking for something custom in a torque converter, give Yank a call. He does custom stalls all the time. I'm sure he can make you something close to stock "feel" in a slightly smaller and lighter converter.
Might I ask, why a Jerrico? They're great transmissions, but what are your demands that a T5/6 won't meet? Sure the T56 isn't the STRONGEST trans out there, but you're not asking it to survive 6,000rpm clutch dumps on slicks either. Is it just better shifting in the Jerrico?
Might I ask, why a Jerrico? They're great transmissions, but what are your demands that a T5/6 won't meet? Sure the T56 isn't the STRONGEST trans out there, but you're not asking it to survive 6,000rpm clutch dumps on slicks either. Is it just better shifting in the Jerrico?
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FormerVendor
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Falkner, MS
Sawedoff,
We can save you nearly 20 lbs of rotating weight with the proper torque converter and give you something with just a little stall over stock. You can give me a call either Thursday or Friday at (662)224-9355.
Kevin
We can save you nearly 20 lbs of rotating weight with the proper torque converter and give you something with just a little stall over stock. You can give me a call either Thursday or Friday at (662)224-9355.
Kevin
Originally Posted by Pete2k_Z28
If you're looking for something custom in a torque converter, give Yank a call. He does custom stalls all the time. I'm sure he can make you something close to stock "feel" in a slightly smaller and lighter converter.
Might I ask, why a Jerrico? They're great transmissions, but what are your demands that a T5/6 won't meet? Sure the T56 isn't the STRONGEST trans out there, but you're not asking it to survive 6,000rpm clutch dumps on slicks either. Is it just better shifting in the Jerrico?
Might I ask, why a Jerrico? They're great transmissions, but what are your demands that a T5/6 won't meet? Sure the T56 isn't the STRONGEST trans out there, but you're not asking it to survive 6,000rpm clutch dumps on slicks either. Is it just better shifting in the Jerrico?
Last edited by sawedoff; Dec 17, 2003 at 05:29 PM.
Originally Posted by Kevin Winstead
Sawedoff,
We can save you nearly 20 lbs of rotating weight with the proper torque converter and give you something with just a little stall over stock. You can give me a call either Thursday or Friday at (662)224-9355.
Kevin
We can save you nearly 20 lbs of rotating weight with the proper torque converter and give you something with just a little stall over stock. You can give me a call either Thursday or Friday at (662)224-9355.
Kevin
