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Old 02-05-2010 | 04:07 PM
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i'm open to any guesses, I don't know what to check anymore. Well vince i checked voltage at the trans fuse in the dash, and ran the truck around with a meter up to it and got almot 14 volts the whole time, so that means the ignition switch is good right? And I though no power equals limp mode which is only 3rd gear? I pulled the fuse and drove the truck and still had 2nd and 3rd. Keep the ideas coming I don't know what to check, what is overrun?
Old 02-06-2010 | 10:51 AM
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You should have manual 2nd in limp mode. You need to get break out box to run the trans on it's own. This will eliminate the internal harness and solenoids. This will point you in the direction of the outside harness, grounds, PCM, OR mechanical issues like a sticky valve, etc. You should purchase an ATRA book from a supplier, (about $18.00-$20.00), and it will help you diagnos your problem. There are a tremendous amount of variables that can cause this problem. Overruns are a set of clutches in the input drum. I doubt there is a problem there.

Good luck.
Old 02-07-2010 | 07:11 PM
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Where would I get a breakout box from? I do think there is a bigger underlying issue because the truck has been shutting off too. The radio will shut off totally and the battery runs dead, the idle is really high. Sounds to me like a shorted ground somewhere. Not sure if thats the issue tying everything together but i'm gonna try to hunt down this bad ground and see if that does anything.
Old 02-08-2010 | 07:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Vince @ FLT
When your truck does what it does, do you have power at the trans? If not you might have a bad ignition switch assembly. Just a thought. Vince
Originally Posted by Pavetim
I can't tell vince i'd be drivin it. I do test when I have the pan off and am getting 12v, obviously can't test with car running though. And it does shift wierd too like it's droppin in and out of gear kinda feeling. I do still feel it's an electrical issue but I really don't know where cause everytime I check it I am getting 12v at the solenoids.
Have you tried to tag the power wire from the computer to the trans while driving to see if it get interrupted?

Originally Posted by Pavetim
Where would I get a breakout box from? I do think there is a bigger underlying issue because the truck has been shutting off too. The radio will shut off totally and the battery runs dead, the idle is really high. Sounds to me like a shorted ground somewhere. Not sure if thats the issue tying everything together but i'm gonna try to hunt down this bad ground and see if that does anything.
Ignition switch or a ground I'm pretty sure is where its at. With the turning off and on of your accessories it has to be one of the two if I had to guess. Vince
Old 02-08-2010 | 12:02 PM
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If you have multiple codes change your ignition switch.They are a real problem in GM vehicles.The problem is when you crank the car voltage drops under 8 volts and sets all kinds of trans codes.Thats were i would start first. [Non-Sponsor Info Removed]

Last edited by blackhawk0251; 02-09-2010 at 01:32 PM.
Old 02-15-2010 | 06:32 PM
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I found a broken ground on the front of the block. DIdn't fix the problem though. I'll try ignition switch next, you know where it's at on my 98 truck? In the column or what?
Old 02-15-2010 | 08:36 PM
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Yes it is in the column. It takes about an hour to change.
Old 02-17-2010 | 02:55 PM
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Ok I took the ignition switch out of the equation. I took the trans fuse in the dash which runs the dash gauges and trans and jumped it directly to 12v hot. So that should bypass the ignition switch, and there is no change in the trans problems. What else guys lol. I'm running out of systems to check here. I took almost the whole engine harness apart and found nothing but that one broken ground and that might of been the truck shutting off problem but nothing fixed the trans.
Old 02-17-2010 | 07:24 PM
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I'm not ignoring suggestions, first off where am I gonna get a tech 2 from a gm dealer, I just walk in and say can I borrow this? And I already asked where to get a break out box from and nobody answered, it's not like a break out box is an off the shelf part here. And no i'm not changing parts at random I troubleshoot and think I find the problem then when i fix it, turns out not to be the problem. I've checked all the solenoids, the voltages, pretty much all the wiring in the system. I'm mainly asking for peoples opinions who know more about the inner workings, I am not familiar with all this electronic trans crap. And I have listenend to all your opinions and tried to test for them, but with no success. and how can i change my diagnostic troubleshooting lol. I find out how the system works and I test that part. How is it i'm wrong testing all the electrical components when all you suggest to check them?
Old 02-17-2010 | 08:36 PM
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I hate changeing parts but I thought i've found the problem thats why i changed the one solenoid and the pcm. I can take it to a shop but I don't want to spend the money cause i'm just wanting to fix it for now, i'm putting an lq4 in it eventually. And i'm the kind of guy that I need to know what the problem is, for my own knowledge so I can help somebody else out if it happens to them too.
Old 02-18-2010 | 08:43 AM
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Would a trans shop use a breakout box? Or would they just hook the scanner up? Unless they use a special type of scanner, I already know i'm getting alot of tranny codes, pretty much every tranny code there is. I found a place here that does free diagnostics but don't know if they gonna hook scanner up and say you got 7 codes, you need trans rebuilt. Ya know.
I'm thinking I fixed the shutoff problem, think it was that ground but i'd have to drive it more to find out. Although i did get a misfire code that the scanner pulled up so maybe thats keeping it in limp mode if it's misfiring. Hmm might be something to look at, not sure why it would be misfiring i replaced the plugs and wires, maybe the "distributor" is going bad. I'll look into taking it to that shop tomorrow and see what develops.
Old 02-18-2010 | 12:45 PM
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you dont have a distributor, you have coil packs
Old 02-19-2010 | 08:40 AM
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My truck has a crap 4.3 vortec and that distributor is exactly what it looks like. Maybe i'll look into and see if I can clean or change the cap out.
Old 02-19-2010 | 10:44 AM
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lol i thought he was running a l98 for some reason. my bad
Old 02-19-2010 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bro inc
there is such a thing as a 1998 truck with a gen 1 type small block that uses a distributor. You know the infamous vortec heads came off of 1996 to 1999 trucks and they bolt right on to 1955 to 1995 small blocks.

You guys are aware of this right?
Originally Posted by bro inc
check it out kids, that thingie with the 8 wires coming off it is what we call a distributor. Dis trib u tor lol.
LOL
Old 02-20-2010 | 09:47 AM
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Default Got it figured out finally

Finally got it figured out, it was three problems. It was the ignition switch that fixed the gauge problems, the ground fixed the shutting off probs and the distrubutor cap/rotor caused a misfire and kept trans in limp mode. I cleaned corrosion off cap and rotor, bypassed the ignition switch and trans works good now. Thanks guys.
Old 02-20-2010 | 05:11 PM
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This is another way to check it if you do not have access to the proper tools , ( Tech 2, Breakoutbox) Disconnect the plug to the trans. supply voltage to A solenoid , you control the ground to the solenoid. If you have voltage and you ground it ,the solenoid then you will start off in first gear. drive around the block in first gear if it toggles in and out of gear then you have a trans issue, if it stays in gear then you have an electrical issue. PS , the computor will set codes and the trans will be at full pump pressure when you do this.




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