1992 4l80
1992 4l80 I am building a 1984 s10 standard cab short box 2wd truck with a built L92 with a turbo set up. I am keeping the DBW so I was going to use the TH350 from my last build since I wouldnt have to screw around with a kickdown cable etc. ( wanted to run a th400 but no way to run the cable that controls line pressure I believe? )
A friend of mine is selling a 4L80 from a 1992 chevy truck with a rebuild on it. Im wondering first, strength wise is this an improvement over the TH350 even though it was weaker than the other 4L80s? Second, is there any type of cable on this tranny that needs to be hooked to the throttle set up like any of the THxxx trannys? and finally, im running a GM stand alone harness for the motor, so there are no provisions for a transmission controller of any sort. Are there any stand alone options for this transmission, or any way I can run it with no electronics? Idealy, Id like to run with no electronics and then if I need it to downshift, ill click it down a gear manually like I was planning on the TH350, but I dont want the full MVB.
Yes, I did some searching but only found info about the tranny strengthwise in relation to the other 4L80s. Thanks!
A friend of mine is selling a 4L80 from a 1992 chevy truck with a rebuild on it. Im wondering first, strength wise is this an improvement over the TH350 even though it was weaker than the other 4L80s? Second, is there any type of cable on this tranny that needs to be hooked to the throttle set up like any of the THxxx trannys? and finally, im running a GM stand alone harness for the motor, so there are no provisions for a transmission controller of any sort. Are there any stand alone options for this transmission, or any way I can run it with no electronics? Idealy, Id like to run with no electronics and then if I need it to downshift, ill click it down a gear manually like I was planning on the TH350, but I dont want the full MVB.
Yes, I did some searching but only found info about the tranny strengthwise in relation to the other 4L80s. Thanks!
The '92 model wasn't really weaker than any other 4L80E.
They had some issues early on with runaway line pressure and they changed the strategy of the electronic pressure control but all this is easily corrected during a rebuild.
I prefer the early 4L80E OD setup and in a retrofit application I prefer the more traditional cooler line locations.
I don't suscribe to the theory that the center lubed units are "better". I don't think they are really any worse but I've seen a few from stock applications with burnt up rear planets. I've never seen a 91-96 with lube starved planets yet and I build about 2-3 of these a week average.
You only have two choices,
run it using an electronic controller or run it as a full manual setup that requires shifting each gear up and down.
There are a couple of options for the full manual setup.
They had some issues early on with runaway line pressure and they changed the strategy of the electronic pressure control but all this is easily corrected during a rebuild.
I prefer the early 4L80E OD setup and in a retrofit application I prefer the more traditional cooler line locations.
I don't suscribe to the theory that the center lubed units are "better". I don't think they are really any worse but I've seen a few from stock applications with burnt up rear planets. I've never seen a 91-96 with lube starved planets yet and I build about 2-3 of these a week average.
You only have two choices,
run it using an electronic controller or run it as a full manual setup that requires shifting each gear up and down.
There are a couple of options for the full manual setup.
okay, so far so good. Thanks for the info, now as far as running it as a manual up and down shift, does that mean manual valve body? Like no downshifting or no coasting in 2nd or some damn thing, I know whatever it is I dont think im going to like it 
or is there another choice?
or is there another choice? around 93-94 they changed the force motor voltage, among other stuff, so if you went with elects. you would have to take that into account
the HD-3 kit makes it manuel, but ck with Jakeshoe, i suspect other mods are needed, i wasnt happy with mine when i converted it
Rossler i think makes a kit with little or no V/B mods, i havent heard from anyone how it works
if you dont care about O/D, i would build a man shift turbo 400, they use vacume in stock form, no cable for shift control, cheaper in the long run-you dont need to hook up the cable on a 350 trans, just vacume-its mainly just to let it downshift
the HD-3 kit makes it manuel, but ck with Jakeshoe, i suspect other mods are needed, i wasnt happy with mine when i converted it
Rossler i think makes a kit with little or no V/B mods, i havent heard from anyone how it works
if you dont care about O/D, i would build a man shift turbo 400, they use vacume in stock form, no cable for shift control, cheaper in the long run-you dont need to hook up the cable on a 350 trans, just vacume-its mainly just to let it downshift
The stock tunes (at least on F bodies) if you click it down a gear, it won't go to the next gear. If you move it from D4 to D3, it is impossible to go into overdrive. Most tunes have 2nd gear start if the shifter is moved to 2nd, and same for 1st. So if you put a compatible TCM, it should be automatic if its in 4th, and if you click it down, it will go down (if that makes sense).
There are a few exceptions, like it will only let you downshift to 2nd if you are below a certain MPH, and same for 1st.
There are a few exceptions, like it will only let you downshift to 2nd if you are below a certain MPH, and same for 1st.
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4l80e Question Jakeshoe Some 4l80e performance builders advertise heat-treated 300M input & ouput shafts, like CKPerformance, PATC, and others. They also say they use 4340 36 element sprags, and various other parts also. My question, what are the original parts made from? Planning to run a little nitrous, but not a lot....
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The stock 4L80E input shaft is prone to breakage with elevated power levels. The "number" that I feel is a good idea to upgrade to the 300M shafts is 800 HP/TQ.
A heavy vehicle, transbrake, and/or N20 application will need it sooner, a lighter vehicle, NA applications, and some turbo'd combos will be Ok with a bit more power.
They seem inconsistant, some stock shafts live at 1000 HP, others break behind a stock 6.0L in a heavy towing application.
36 element sprag drum is a good upgrade. It has .450" wide elements as opposed to the stock .330" wide 34 element piece. So more load contact area. The outer race is also thicker which increases the overall stength. If you want to get really technical the drum is also slightly lighter in 3rd gear than stock.
A 98-02 F body with LS1 and 150-200 shot wouldn't scare me on a properly built 4L80E with stock input shaft.
A heavy vehicle, transbrake, and/or N20 application will need it sooner, a lighter vehicle, NA applications, and some turbo'd combos will be Ok with a bit more power.
They seem inconsistant, some stock shafts live at 1000 HP, others break behind a stock 6.0L in a heavy towing application.
36 element sprag drum is a good upgrade. It has .450" wide elements as opposed to the stock .330" wide 34 element piece. So more load contact area. The outer race is also thicker which increases the overall stength. If you want to get really technical the drum is also slightly lighter in 3rd gear than stock.
A 98-02 F body with LS1 and 150-200 shot wouldn't scare me on a properly built 4L80E with stock input shaft.
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