B&M Trans Cooler 70264
B&M Trans Cooler 70264 ok so i picked this cooler up used well it looks new but im missing the fittings and the hose so what all do i need to mount and hook this up to my 00 Z28?? also from what ive read this cooler should be fine with out the factory cooler so it will be my only cooler with a SS3600.
one more thing it seems that there will be little air flow to the dope style way or does it actuall get enough air there
Thanks Ryan
one more thing it seems that there will be little air flow to the dope style way or does it actuall get enough air there
Thanks Ryan
Even new, it doesn't come with ANY fittings. You'll need a 1/2 male NPT thread to 3/8" barb fitting to run rubber line (the fitting on the cooler is 1/2 female npt). Any lowes/home depot will have the fittings. The stock lines I just disconnected from the cooler and slid the 3/8" trans cooler hose (the new one) over the end of the flare and hose clamped it on. Works great, and the stock flare makes for a nice seal.
I'm running this exact cooler with OUT the stock cooler with a 3600 stall and it really cools stuff down and it also helps keep the coolant cooler since theres no trans fluid running through it.
I'm running this exact cooler with OUT the stock cooler with a 3600 stall and it really cools stuff down and it also helps keep the coolant cooler since theres no trans fluid running through it.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
The 70264 does come with a full installation kit when new, or at least mine did. See here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-M-U...Q5fAccessories
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/B-M-U...Q5fAccessories
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
Inside the cooler itself, how is it constructed...?
(I already searched and found installed-on-car pics).
I'm told this cooler is more effective than an same sized tube/fin cooler, I want to see why/how (I don't doubt it, I just want to know why).
Also, I take it one of these would be suitable for a PS cooler...?
(I already searched and found installed-on-car pics).
I'm told this cooler is more effective than an same sized tube/fin cooler, I want to see why/how (I don't doubt it, I just want to know why).
Also, I take it one of these would be suitable for a PS cooler...?
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On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 144
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From: dallas, ga
I don't know anything about this cooler, but I gather it is a plate/fin style cooler?
I am a huge fan of this style over a tube/fin. The way I look at it is a tube style cooler is just that, a 3/8" tube that runs back and forth a few times with absolutely no restriction. Therefore ATF spends VERY little time in the cooler to exchange any heat to the atmosphere.
A plate style cooler is much more restrictive by design ( not enough to starve the geartrain of lube oil) so fluid spends alot more time in the cooler. If you ever notice, oems never use a tube style for ATF... I wonder why?
I'm no engineer or even very smart, thats just the way I think of it.
JOECAR- your'e the man. Thanks for all the help on EFILive, your'e the most helpful guy I have ran into on my 3rd gen adventure!
I am a huge fan of this style over a tube/fin. The way I look at it is a tube style cooler is just that, a 3/8" tube that runs back and forth a few times with absolutely no restriction. Therefore ATF spends VERY little time in the cooler to exchange any heat to the atmosphere.
A plate style cooler is much more restrictive by design ( not enough to starve the geartrain of lube oil) so fluid spends alot more time in the cooler. If you ever notice, oems never use a tube style for ATF... I wonder why?
I'm no engineer or even very smart, thats just the way I think of it.
JOECAR- your'e the man. Thanks for all the help on EFILive, your'e the most helpful guy I have ran into on my 3rd gen adventure!
I ordered mine from summit and didn't get anything at all other than the cooler, what a rip. heh.
I installed mine in front of the ac condenser (had to finagle it a bit, it is very tight, but it fits really nicely when done). I used 90 degree elbows coming right out of the cooler so that the rubber lines dont need to make a sharp bend. I then drilled holes at the very top of the airdam and ran them through there to the hard lines. Looks really clean too. I've noticed a 30-50 degree reduction in temperatures.
I installed mine in front of the ac condenser (had to finagle it a bit, it is very tight, but it fits really nicely when done). I used 90 degree elbows coming right out of the cooler so that the rubber lines dont need to make a sharp bend. I then drilled holes at the very top of the airdam and ran them through there to the hard lines. Looks really clean too. I've noticed a 30-50 degree reduction in temperatures.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
I ordered mine from summit and didn't get anything at all other than the cooler, what a rip. heh.
I installed mine in front of the ac condenser (had to finagle it a bit, it is very tight, but it fits really nicely when done). I used 90 degree elbows coming right out of the cooler so that the rubber lines dont need to make a sharp bend. I then drilled holes at the very top of the airdam and ran them through there to the hard lines. Looks really clean too. I've noticed a 30-50 degree reduction in temperatures.
I installed mine in front of the ac condenser (had to finagle it a bit, it is very tight, but it fits really nicely when done). I used 90 degree elbows coming right out of the cooler so that the rubber lines dont need to make a sharp bend. I then drilled holes at the very top of the airdam and ran them through there to the hard lines. Looks really clean too. I've noticed a 30-50 degree reduction in temperatures.
I run just the cooler, I bypassed the stock cooler altogether. I noticed that now, the engine stays a little cooler, and the trans fluid takes a LOT longer to heat up than before.
I just disconnected the lines from the old cooler, pushed the flare fitting back and pushed the rubber line over the hard metal line and hose clamped it. Been running it for about a month now with zero issues, leaking, or scraping. I did have to wire tie the rubber lines up because they would dip and I was afraid it would catch on a speed bump or whatnot.
Here's a few pics.
I just disconnected the lines from the old cooler, pushed the flare fitting back and pushed the rubber line over the hard metal line and hose clamped it. Been running it for about a month now with zero issues, leaking, or scraping. I did have to wire tie the rubber lines up because they would dip and I was afraid it would catch on a speed bump or whatnot.
Here's a few pics.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
^^^one quick piece of advice. I ran my rubber lines like that for a while and I started to notice slight chaffing from going through the air dam. To remedy this, I removed the hoses, drilled the holes in the air dam bigger, and took some extra hose I had laying around, slit it down the middle, and wrapped it around the trans cooler line, then reinserted the line through the air dam. That way the outer hose takes the vibration and not your cooler line.
I run just the cooler, I bypassed the stock cooler altogether. I noticed that now, the engine stays a little cooler, and the trans fluid takes a LOT longer to heat up than before.
I just disconnected the lines from the old cooler, pushed the flare fitting back and pushed the rubber line over the hard metal line and hose clamped it. Been running it for about a month now with zero issues, leaking, or scraping. I did have to wire tie the rubber lines up because they would dip and I was afraid it would catch on a speed bump or whatnot.
Here's a few pics.
I just disconnected the lines from the old cooler, pushed the flare fitting back and pushed the rubber line over the hard metal line and hose clamped it. Been running it for about a month now with zero issues, leaking, or scraping. I did have to wire tie the rubber lines up because they would dip and I was afraid it would catch on a speed bump or whatnot.
Here's a few pics.
redss: i was considering that when I did it, that's a good idea. I might have to do something like that if it starts to become a problem. I wire tied the lines behind the air dam so they don't move a whole lot, but obviously when I'm driving I can't really tell how much they move. I'll keep an eye on it though.
I mounted the cooler to the ac condenser using the "transmission cooler mounting kit". (I'm not being a jerk, that's what it's called at any auto parts store). The kit is plastic circles with a hole in the middle and a 7" long plastic zip tie looking thing. You push the 7" long end through the ac condenser and then put the little circle thing on it and cinch it tight like a zip tie. Be sure to use the little rubber squares that the kit comes with, they go between the condenser and the cooler to isolate them (so theres no metal on metal).
http://www.amazon.com/80278-Transmis.../dp/B00029WR7S
That's what it looks like, the auto parts store had it for like $7 though.
I had to wiggle the cooler up in there real tricky like. I recommend removing the air box and the air box bottom portion (4 - 10mm bolts) then you can get your hands down in there to fish the plastic things through. (When you remove the lower air box thingie, the ac condenser wiggles freely).
See, i researched all this and everyone says "yeah just put it there and you're good", but they never tell you specifically how to get it in there. Then after you figure it all out they go "oooooh yeah everyone knows that".
So if you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask, i'll monitor this thread daily.
I mounted the cooler to the ac condenser using the "transmission cooler mounting kit". (I'm not being a jerk, that's what it's called at any auto parts store). The kit is plastic circles with a hole in the middle and a 7" long plastic zip tie looking thing. You push the 7" long end through the ac condenser and then put the little circle thing on it and cinch it tight like a zip tie. Be sure to use the little rubber squares that the kit comes with, they go between the condenser and the cooler to isolate them (so theres no metal on metal).
http://www.amazon.com/80278-Transmis.../dp/B00029WR7S
That's what it looks like, the auto parts store had it for like $7 though.
I had to wiggle the cooler up in there real tricky like. I recommend removing the air box and the air box bottom portion (4 - 10mm bolts) then you can get your hands down in there to fish the plastic things through. (When you remove the lower air box thingie, the ac condenser wiggles freely).
See, i researched all this and everyone says "yeah just put it there and you're good", but they never tell you specifically how to get it in there. Then after you figure it all out they go "oooooh yeah everyone knows that".
So if you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask, i'll monitor this thread daily.
Trans cooler Just for a heads up, I used the B&M 70266 on my car. It came as a "kit", here is the link:
http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/70266/10002/-1
It fits almost perfectly just behind the lower air dam and the "nose" on my '96- I took the plastic out, and had to make a couple tabs to mount it and it was done........ pretty fast/easy, almost like it was made to fit up in there. The fittings come up through the battery tray (the kit has (2) -6 straights, I had to buy (2) -6 90's) and run along the pass inner fender/rail and down to the trans. Just to catch/direct the air to it, I made up a small tray that acts like a scoop, so it comes out even with the airdam. I havent ran it yet, but I dont think Ill have any problems w/airflow or temp, but I guess we'll see....... My camera is dead, but if anyone wants to see pics, shoot me a pm w/a number and Ill snap a few off my phone and send to ya.
http://www.jegs.com/i/B%26amp%3BM/130/70266/10002/-1
It fits almost perfectly just behind the lower air dam and the "nose" on my '96- I took the plastic out, and had to make a couple tabs to mount it and it was done........ pretty fast/easy, almost like it was made to fit up in there. The fittings come up through the battery tray (the kit has (2) -6 straights, I had to buy (2) -6 90's) and run along the pass inner fender/rail and down to the trans. Just to catch/direct the air to it, I made up a small tray that acts like a scoop, so it comes out even with the airdam. I havent ran it yet, but I dont think Ill have any problems w/airflow or temp, but I guess we'll see....... My camera is dead, but if anyone wants to see pics, shoot me a pm w/a number and Ill snap a few off my phone and send to ya.