I am sending my Vig2800 in for replacement with a multidisc setup, probably 3200 stall (382 stroker, X1 cam, 150 wet kit, 3.23 gears, drag radials, 4000lb camaro, A4 trans)...

Anyone have good/bad results with a multidisc setup? Do they tend to stall higher than advertised as with the single disc setups? Any info would be appreciated.

SDB

 

TTT for ya. I believe the Multidisc Vigi's are more correctly rated. I mean that a 3800 Multidisc will stall at 3800 unlike the usual underrating.

 

OMG My 4000 3 disc Vig was one of the most efficient converter I've ever seen...only lost 3hp locked vs unlocked. I recommend it to anyone. DEFINATLY well worth it.

And I'd go higher than 3200...get the 3800-4000 trust me....one MEAN *** converter...and launching on the street....OMG...left people w/their panties around their ankles....seriously.

 

"only lost 3hp locked vs unlocked."

Josey, that's because it's semi-locked even when "unlocked". IE, the clutch drags more than most (they all drag a little.) I'm not downing the converter, I'm just pointing out a little known tidbit that explains how Vig all of a sudden learned to build an "efficient" acting converter.

 

I also have the 4000 multidisc like Josey . As john stated i do get exactly 4000 stall from it but I can tell you it is probly the most streetable converter ive ever owned including my vig 3200. This thing is tight when driving around town. I guess what colonel is saying would make sense but I dont know much about it. When I locked it at the track I saw 0 gains in mph or et. I guess that its pretty efficent. I just wish I had a higher shift extension. When I called to hae it restalled from a 3600 to a 4000 I asked about raisig theshift extension and the guy acted like he had no idea what I ment and actually told me to shift it higher. I was alittle nervous but IT was restalled but shift extension is still alittle low for me. I might have to get a yank one day for max ET but for now Ill drive this thing any where.

 

thanks for the input...i am thinking about more stall, BUT I want basically the most out of my nitrous, but maybe keeping the stock 3.23 gears will be enough concession. I know the engine with the X1 cam will love the 4000 stall converter over the 3200, but didn't know if it would hurt the nitrous use or not (bu hurt, meaning the nitrous will flash the converter higher/faster, and it is a 4000 stall to being with, may not make best use of the nitrous). I am glad to see no gains with lock up switch, I didn't want one more thing to have to "flick" when driving this thing!!!

I will have to do some more asking about my particular set up and see what some other/tuners think. I had a Vig 3500 in a vette and it was fine, and the 2800 seems low in my current set up. The problem I don't want to ge it killing the tires too much, as I plan on running 17" DR or the new ET Streets, which are good, but nothing like some big sidewall ET Drags I used to use on my vette.

It seems like a decent deal, I send in my used 2800 converter and P.I. gives me a brand new multidisc lockup any stall converter for $375 difference.

SDB

 

Offaxis, we're all learning about these converters here. Maybe you can shed a little light.

If you put your tranny in 2nd and brake stall the converter at 100% throttle, you're seeing 4000 RPM?

What kind of shift extension are you seeing on the 2-3 shift?

If the SE is low and the converter seems tight in daily driving, that would support the idea that the clutch is dragging alot.

 

a 4000 multidisc w/n20 is AWSOME!!!!! and thanks Colonel for that info....but fact is..they did it and WOW...what a converter!!!

 

It does flash to 4000 but I dont think it will foot stall to there. I have foot stalled to 3000 on the nittos . I would try the 2nd gear thing but as usuall my 3rd gear is MIA again this time I got 800 miles on the alto reds. I got a stock unit from a friend that I am having redone with just a beast sunshell and new band plus the new raybestos z-pak single sided clutches ( 15 I believe ). I think the first guy who was rebuilding my units must have dont something or there is a crack in the valve body or something not leting the pressure rise at part throtle. I have not used the atap and I am only going by the tach but it seems 5300 is the shift extension. I feel i should be around 5700 with my car. My old TCS converter had a 5800 shift extension and it felt real strong but I would loose 25 hp unlocked on the dyno with that one.

Jeremy

 

I have a Vig 3600 and it feel loose as hell on the street I've tried to use LS1edit to tighten things up a little but its still loose. I think that my stall is much higher than 3600. Maybe I haven't learned how to drive(used to) with the stall yet. How long does it take to get the restall?

 

"they did it"

Did what? Made the clutch drag? You can do that with a lockup switch!

offaxis, you can test the true stall speed of the converter (this works on '00+s ONLY) by footstalling it in 2nd gear. This will allow you to go to WOT without overpowering the brakes. If your SE is indeed 5300 then I'd guess it probably is a 4000 stall or thereabouts.

 

The truth hurts Steve
PI Multidisc works according to Jason/MTI and their dyno..I'll be upgrading my VIG 3800 stalled to 4200 w/multi disc this spring...

 

Who said it doesn't work, Joel? I must have missed that. And what truth is hurting who? I'm just not following....???

 

Joel, something for you and everyone trying to learn about converters to think about...

Sure, I'd rather run a not so efficient converter with a dragging clutch (that losses 3-4 as opposed to FULLY locked) rather than a not-so efficient converter without a dragging clutch (that losses 25-30 RWHP when unlocked.) A crutch is better than nothing at all. But I'd still rather have an efficient converter (that losses 10-15 RWHP.) Why? Because we don't race on dynos...elsewise we'd keep the converters fully locked ALL the time. The efficient converter (converter, NOT clutch configuration) is going to win the race, all else being equal. Why? Because peak numbers on the dyno don't mean diddly compared to TQ multiplication all the way down the track and keeping within the best power of the engine (shift extension and slippage play heavily here and a draggin' clutch will cost you some of both.)

 

Alot of big words Steve
Cant someone else make something that works too?

The point I was trying to make is,one company isnt the end all of all converters.Things change as do companies,If u Steve stayed the same your business would wither and die but your a smart guy who has flourised with growth,ideals and hard work.

JMHO buddy,maybe u should ACTUALLY try someone else's stuff and then tell us your results?I did and I got .05 for $400 and about 1 MPH,IMO it wasnt worth the cash.I loved my TP4200 though,That sucker was the BEST verter I ever had,I shouldve NEVER sold it..

As far a Yank,TCI,PI or Midwest...
They ALL make good converters,Take your pick....

 

Be careful and pay attention Joel, there are more BIG words to follow!

"The point I was trying to make is,one company isnt the end all of all converters."

Very well, your point is made and I agree with it as I always have. There is more than one good converter company. Show me where I've said elsewise. I call 'em like I see 'em. I don't pretend that something is or isn't what it is not or is.

And I think you've forgotten that I HAVE tried another converter than Yank...TCI, remember?

Yank makes excellent converters. No one can dispute that unless they're just being contrarian.
TCI makes great converters, especially for the money. They should. They've been doing it longer than anyone.
Vig makes some pretty good converters and they've certainly made their share of sloppy inefficient converters too. Few would argue that. I don't have much respect for their practice of deceitful stall ratings.
I also believe that Neil Chance makes some excellent converters. Their reputation for efficiency and excellence in the racing world is widely known enough that it's hard to ignore.
Midwest? Well, the jury is still out but so far I've seen alot more so-so results and testimonies than I have really good or excellent results and testimonies. I'd put them last in this group by a fairly wide margin until I see reason to think better of them.

But back to calling a spade a spade. You could (just speaking figuratively for a moment) take a converter that loses 50 RWHP on the dyno (just for example) and give it a lockup clutch that fully locks under power making it lose ZERO HP on the dyno. And, you can call that an efficient converter if you'd like....but I certainly won't call it that. I'll call it what it is, an inefficient converter with a clutch that is fully locked when under power...nothing more. Build the same converter for a TH400 (no lockup) and see what the dyno says.

"Cant someone else make something that works too?"

Sure they can...but it's up to THEM to do it.

 

OK.....so will I be better off with a 4000 or 3200 stall for using nitrous on 3.23 with 382 stroker X1 cam, 4l60E, and DR's or ET Streets? I dont want to overstall the car on nitrous, but want hte best of both worlds, off and on the bottle. Anyone sprayinging a multidisc Vig, if so what stall and how do you feel about it?

Thanks

SDB

 

i have personally seen some convertors like Vig (precision industries) on cammed ls1 cars gaining over 30 rwhp locked on the dyno. sweet for dyno. when it came to track time, thier mph sucked big time. that is what matters to me.

 

Its funny how we have guys saying they've seen 30 to 40RW lost thew a VIG but when Texas Speed tested a stout H/C Car and lost 40RW threw a TP4400 is was a dyno issue.

Give me a break,My one Yank wouldnt even LOCK on the dyno.The clutch was junk,I though u had a mishap with a clutch malfuction too Steve?

I remember talking to one of your comrads about how u were PISSED about the POS Yank clutch almost ruining your tranny in the new camaro?

Thats when u went with a TCI if I remember correctly?

I've lost anywhere from 20 to 30 RW depending on the manufactures verter.
I can tell you one I went a 1.47 60ft with a VIG 3800 (4200 flash) at 123MPH at 3550lbs.

IMO thats NOT inefficient...

 

I ran H/C/N20 w/my multidisc 4000....I still trapped in the 120's on MOTOR...never made a n20 pass at the track but I'm guessing close to 130....

On the street...I honestly had never been outlaunched...unless you had a lot of land on me or something I would be gone w/I launched....I pulled 1.60's w/DR's at Sealy and I know I wasn't that far off on the street....the converter rocked...

I'm not saying that Vigi's are the end all and be all, but they are damn close w/their multidisc and around town driving..was like a 2500.....didn't have to get on the gas very much to get going but when you blipped the throttle you could be sideways or scaring the **** out of the guy in the other lane.