Agreed one of the best mods you will do to your car without question. Circle D has some nice options to get it done.

 

I'm in the same boat,

I'm leaning towards a Yank SS3600, I have 69k miles on the stock tranny, it was lady owned ( 45 years old ) previously for 7 years, trans fluid looks red, not sure if it was ever changed or not, i figured if im going to do a stall I wont change the fluid just yet.

I'm just worried as far as my stock tranny and how long it will hold, I just plan to do 228 or torque v2 cam after the stall., as of now, the tranny shifts great, doesn't hit the rev limiter at all and shows no signs of near failure.

I'm like.. sick of the dead spots, I wanna wake this car up!

 

My 97z had 87,000 miles on it when I did ss3600 & small cam. I put 78 track passes on it over 2 years before tranny went out a month ago. As far as we could tell the pump failed,lost pressure and cooked the clutches. It all depends on how hard you beat your tranny.I beat mine pretty good.

 

Went from stock converter to Yank SS4000 plus 100lbs.out of car dropped from 12.72 @ 111mph. to 11.78 @ 114 mph. And 60ft from 1.97 to 1.57! Almost a full second from a converter swap! Love my YANK !!!

 

Very nice ! maybe I should have went ss4000 when my tranny went out, Dave at Yank cut & cleaned my 3600 and said it was fine ,so we put it back in.

 

That's another thing... How much will a stall mess with my tranny? If I get a 3600 stall, and a B&M tranny cooler, will my trans still get messed up considering I don't take it to the track and use street tires? This is my dd, so I'm trying to figure everything out.

 

If you can keep it cool a stall is easier on the trans while your not at WOT. Once you are at WOT it just puts a lot more torque and stress on the trans.

 

I recommend a gauge to monitor the trans temps as well.

Umm, i have another question, if my tranny goes, the stall has to be rebuilt? how does that work? and whats it cost? from searches on here thats what I've heard.

 

Usually anywhere from $100 to $200 for a cut and clean of the converter. Most of the time a restall while they are in there is just a little bit more. And maybe more if bearings or the lock-up clutch needs to be replaced. Plus shipping.

 

Hmm... What if I but two 24,000btu trans coolers on it? Will it be ok then? Also, how much ARE trans coolers anyways?

 

B+M 70264 plate cooler is popular here. It comes as a complete bolt in kit for $60. Im running the next size up B+M, with the stock radiator cooler bypassed and Im loving my trans temps. I have a pan mounted sending unit so I can constantly monitor trans temps. Really helps you to see how good your cooling is doing and if you may need to step up to a bigger cooler or move it to a place with more airflow.

 

If you don't mind me asking, what size stall do you run? Also, what are your average temps? I'm about to get a stall, so I'm trying to learn everything I can.

 

2000 ss slp car with LT/ORY stock slp exhaust and slp lid no ls6 intake performabuilt level 2 with 3800 stall 12.43 on my nittos DR and thats with sum spin outa the hole im happy with it! i ready 4 a ms4 cam,prc heads and gears NOW! o ya and ls6 intake!

 

First set-up was an Edge 3200 with the 264 cooler run inline with the radiator cooler. Summer temps (90+ outside) ran about 180 in traffic, 160 while constant driving. New set-up is a Yank 4k, next size up cooler (11x11x1.5) and bypassed the factory cooler and running the B+M only and I see 120-140 during the summer and 150 in heavy traffic. A nice improvement I think. I'm very comfortable with these temps. Stock temps were very similar to the first set-up as the gauge went in before the 3200 or cooler so I could get a baseline. By bypassing the factory cooler the trans doesnt hardly get warm during cooler air. If its 50 out, It takes 30+ mins of driving to even see a temp of 110.

 

Is there any evidence to suggest that this is beneficial for the transmission? Everyone is so quick to slap on the biggest trans cooler they find and then keep temps down in the 120s. Most of the literature I've read suggests that ATF has it's ideal lubricating and cleaning properties around 150-175 degrees F. Comments?

 

Yeah, stalls do make a difference. On my gtp, it dropped about .3 in the quarter mile.

 

Nice, so if i buy a yank 3600, will i be set? lockup and all that will be there right? my friend told me i needed some kind of lockup solenoid when putting the stall in, didn't really make sense to me.

I imagine I'll need a tune, nice trans cooler, 2-pod gauge with trans temp and something else, maybe wide-band.

As far as bypassing the stock cooler, I'm not sure yet, but I won't be driving it much in the winter so yeah.