What's up everyone,
I'm new to this form so I would like to say hello to all you speed freak's
here at LS1 TECH. I just bought a PT4000 2.7 from Mike at Yank. This has been the hardest single mod to choose I've ever made. I was going to go with the SY4000 cause of the low str and the fact that I drive my car alot in the summer,also I do some racing from a roll on the street now and them. I have a head/cam 2001 WS6 w/3.73 gear's BMR suspention LT's ect...
Right now I have the stock converter in here and the car is just tight as can be so that's why I was thinking the SY converter's was the way to go. I spoke to Mike and he explained how even with the high STR of the PT4000 It will drive,race from a roll, launch, and have lower ET's better all the way around than the SY4000.
He is an expert so I thought about it and called him back and got me one. I hope I have made the right decision in going with the 2.7 over the 2.2 wich I thought would be better for me given the large cam I got in here. Sorry to make such a long post it's just I see here the PT4000 get's alot of love unlike LS1.com wich everyone has a totally different TC. I was just very curious to here from a head/cam 3.73 car that has the PT4000 so I can get and Idea of what to expect. I want feel my power on damand for once. Thank you for any reply's.
I do have DR but I guess they wont do me any good now?

 

The pt will just hit alot harder thats all. It will be harder to hook on the street even with nittos.

 

Pt's are the best hands down.

 

ls1.com - dont go there for advice on racing or performance on your car. go there for waxing info or what headlights are teh brightest. the PT4000 is a hell of a convertor and will hit very hard. believe me, that isnt a problem if you enjoy racing. also it is a very efficient convertor on the big end. you made a great choice.

 

I had an SY3500 and 3.42's. That was good on the street. I installed the PT4000 and 3.90's A few weeks ago. It is a great setup. With street tires there is no traction for me, at all, in 1st and slippery until halfway into 2nd gear. I'm installing a bigger cam in a few weeks which is what this converter needs in 3rd gear. You will love it.

 

Hmm that's kinda of a $hitty statement as some of us over there are interested in getting people like this the correct info and often refer to this site. Anyways you will need a good tire.. At least an E/T street to get any descent traction when taking off. I can spin my E/T Streets from a launch if there is no track prep. It just takes some practice. You will be much happier with this converter than a SY series for sure.

 

Thank's Guy's it makes sence to go with the Higher STR when this converter is real efficient right up with the rest. I just got it today, it was on my porch when I got home from the shop.I think I will enjoy this alot cause anyone with this converter has nothing but good things to say. I'll put some ET streets on for the track and if the rear blow's up on a good stick it gives me a reason to get a 12. To be honest this is the most responce I've got from a post. I'm not shure what that's all about.I'll post when I get this thing wide open and I'm shure I'll like this TC.
My car is Dyno tuned but I'm not shure about Torque Management. The guy that tuned my car has moved away so I'm not shure if it has been zeroed out or changed I have a 2001. Did you guys just remove TM altogether? I'm not shure what to do about that.
Roger if those times are true your my Hero. Very impressive

 

Looks like your also a hero Roger. You were my idle. What's next?

 

you should be in the high 11's if you have headers and you might need a cam, i just got a pt 4400 and i love mine, havent gotten a chance to smash it yet because i didnt want to break nothin, but youll love it excpet when you go fill up for gas twice a week!!

 

The higher STR will make the car MUCH more driveible.

You should enjoy the TP-4000.

It will work well with your setup.

 

I got a 228 236 577 588 114 cam w/ stock TC in my car so I'm realy hoping for a good gain in 1/4 mile performance and drivability. hopfully I can stick a 1.6 60 and get a low 11 slip but we shall see? Have any of you deleted Torque Management with your set up? It's going in on Monday so I might have to drive my car in the snow, Michigan does'nt help us Street/Drag racer's much. I'll have to wait till April to judge the way my car will react to this TC.
Thank's everyone I'm confident this will be the last one I buy.

 

WFC..

Rear end worries? Just avoid wheel hop and you should be fine.

DR's? they will absolutely NOT hold your car with that verter. Once your spinning... then the tires will grab... then spin.. then grab then BAM! your rear end is gone. Word to the wise....

That verter will compliment your cam nicely.

Slipping and sliding when driving? Worried about blowing the tires on the street? Just do not give it full throttle. It sounds simple but you would be suprised at the amount of folks who have not grasped that little tid bit of knowledge.
Practice with the car...learn how much throttle and how fast you can hammer it before the tires break loose.

I would recommend real slicks over the E.T. Streets any day. Remember avoid wheel hop.

BTW, i love that converter. The same one on a 4200 stal speed has been VERy good to me.

Good luck.

 

I have the 4200 as well and I am very pleased with it.

 

Thank's raughammer
Ill take my car up north somewhere in April and see what I'll need to do with my car to get max performance on the street.I have 400 to the rear and all the advice I've gotten to date is to forget about slick's till a 12 is married to the rear. If I cut a 1.5 60 spinning or something like that I might change my frame of mind about slick's
Ive cut a 1.8 60 before head/cam went in and that was at Lapeer MI dragway (it's a dirt track with a 1/4 mile drive way but I run good there. Why, I dont know) This suck's waiting for April.
Frank

 

Just to back up what Raughammer was saying, drag radials actually stand a better chance of destroying your rear than slicks or ET Streets. See, the problem isn't so much when the tire dead hooks and stays hooked, it's when the tire wheel hops...which is to say that it's literally bouncing on and off the pavement from a lack of complete traction and this loading and then violent reloading of the drivetrain kills rearends! Been there, done that. You're better off with slicks at the track.

 

I know wheel hop kill's the 7.5 10-bolt, I have always been lead to beleive that a dead hook with slick's/Et streets with let's say the 400 RWHP marker would put a more severe load at a particular instance on a rear than a little wheel hop would when the car is in motion. Would'nt this depend on the severity of wheel hop compared to a dead hook launching at around 2100 rpm's if possible ? check out my sig. my syspention mods were the first parts I bought for this car other than a lid. Wheel hop and tracktion was always on my mind since trashing my warranty and moding away. Other forums lead me to belive that a little give at the initial launch is way eaiser on the rear than a pure hook hole shot (pardon the lingo). Would you say slick's give you better piece of mine at the track than DR if geting your car towed home cause of a shatterd rear was a primary concern? Im just curious cause Ive been counting my passes down the strip waiting for this thing to blow! I hav'nt really considerd what is worse to our stock rear's.hmmmmmm

 

dead hook with only one wheel is usually what happens. Blows the posi.

 

"Would you say slick's give you better piece of mine at the track than DR if geting your car towed home cause of a shatterd rear was a primary concern? "

Yes! yes! yes!
Dr's are much more deadly to a slick equipped rear that dead hooks.
For example, my stock rear lived through over 400 killer launches and this was with 3.42~73 gears. (1.3~1.45 60' times)

The whole idea is to avoid wheel hop.

Slicks at 2100 rpm and 400 hp on a stock rear? I would rather have that than Dr's slipping and grabbing and hopping...Dr's are HARD...they are EASY to overpower. Slick are soft, they absorb shock and stick like glue (if you have a good track surface and you have covered your other bases).

The only time i do not recommend slicks is when the car is mostly stock and the slicks would just slow you down.

For a modded, vertered, bolt-on'd street fighter? Go the way of slicks.
Word to the wise...E.T. streets are a poor imitation of slicks and once your past around 11.5 e.t.'s then they are pretty unreliable for consistency on most 4 th gens.

Good luck.
P.S., Dr's are the devil!

 

i heard this after my buddy blew his tranny, they said to put it in drive when taking off instead of OD because it makes the tranny stronger, anyone else heard this, i know its off subject but something to keep in mind

 

My goodness. I'll have to really consider this. You make alot of sence now visualizing it in my head. I guess I'm trained to think the DR route (as far as the stock rear goes). I know where you stand but this sucks cause so far what I have been lead to believe about Slicks and some points on STR on anoter LS1 site differs 180 degrees on this forum. I'm not just a magazine/forum guy I learn from experenced people that I know and/or meetand the best way I learn is to take it apart and figure it out(or fix what I break is usually the case) Thank You all. I was gonna call and get some prices on ET streets but what's the point if stright hooking with slick's is best.(I've never done that on this car) I kind of feel like the people who are on that atkins diet and are first told they can eat all the fat they want and loose more weight. Thank You Raughammer