In the process of an ls6 swap into my 98z. While everything is out I had my trans rebuilt and will be installing a Circle D 2C converter [3200-3400]. This will be a DD and may never see a track. I have decided to run a cooler after the stock trans cooler [so the 2 in series]. I have been looking at the B+M 70264 cooler. From what I've read, this is sufficient. I think my father and I will try to fab up a support bracket to keep the cooler slightly away from the condenser rather than zip-tying it. And I've read it is best to point the input/output to the side to avoid air pockets.

Do you guys see anything wrong with this logic/setup? Does anyone have any recommendations or input on this subject [like what you run, how you have it plumbed, etc]. Any info would be appreciated. I want to get the cooler ordered in the next few days. Thanks!

 

Good cooler lots of people here use it. And most bypass the stock cooler, but I guess it's personal preference. I by passed my stock one and DD my car even in the FL heat with no problems.

 

It sounds like you're on the right track - that's what I would do.

 

i decided to bypass the stock radiator as well. To me it makes more sense to bypass it since my tranny runs cooler then the engine, why would i want the cooler tranny fluid to get warmed up by the engine?

 

There are a lot of factors. It probably depends on how big your trans cooler is, how aggressive your stall is, what your climate is like, etc.

To understand, you have to first look at the engine cooling system. The coolant comes out the middle of the water pump, goes through the radiator, and then is piped back in through the thermostat housing from the same side of the radiator that the trans fluid heat exchange is on. That means that the coolant in that tank (with the trans fluid heat exchanger) was already cooled by the radiator and should be significantly cooler than the coolant in the engine under most driving conditions. That means that the trans fluid is going be cooled by the coolest coolant in the cooling system (aside from what's in the overflow bottle.) (Wow, that's a lot of "cool" but read it carefully and it makes sense!)

If your thermostat is opening at 180*, or maybe even cooler if you have an aftermarket one, the fluid in your radiator tank with the trans fluid heat exchanger should not be any hotter than 180*. In fact, it will probably be cooler than that. If you have a big stall converter, there's a good chance your trans fluid temps might be higher than 180 degrees after a series of hard pulls... they might get up to 210* when they're coming out of the trans case to go to the coolers. If that's the case, the <180* coolant in the radiator tank will be cooler than the 210* fluid coming out of your trans, and it will cool the trans fluid down. (That's a pretty extreme case. The coolant in the outlet tank of the radiator will generally be less than 180* unless you're in a hot climate, and a big stall can rack up some higher trans fluid temperatures.)

And that is how the trans cooler in the radiator tank cools your trans fluid before going into your second separate trans fluid cooler.

Some might also argue that the warm coolant will get your trans fluid up to operating temp faster or keep it warmer in cold climates, but that's probably not much of a concern if you have a somewhat aggressive stall. It will make plenty of heat in a hurry.

 

The above post is long winded and incorrect seriously, warm transmission fluids in cold climates are no worry bc a stall will heat the fluid real quick. Is this a joke? You obviously have no experience with this. When its 60 degrees, with only a b+m 70274 cooler and a 4k converter, my trans won't come over 120 degrees while driving. I think that's quite cold and don't think trans fluid is designed for those temps. If I lived up north there is no way in hell I would bypass my stock warmer, at least not during winter.

 

Nope.

Agreed.

 

The reason I decided to run in series was because that is what Chris at Circle D and the guys at B+M recommended. And their reasons were basically what FastKat listed [trans temps may be above coolant temps, so running through stock cooler will lower temps some, then the aftermarket cooler will cool it even further]. Makes sense to me and I figure those vendors know what they are talking about. Seems like their all varying opinions as to which is better. Not sure if their is one right answer at this point. Both sides present good arguments.

Now how important is this 'Low Pressure Drop' feature that the 70264 has? B+M's larger 'universal' coolers like the 70266 or 70274 do not list this feature and I'm not sure if it is necessary or not [since I will run in series]. Will it really make a difference? I am in western NY and will not be driving the car past October [so basically a warm(er) weather vehicle].