YANK 3600 vs. 3200 Advice
YANK 3600 vs. 3200 Advice I currently have a 3600, problem is on my 265/40/18 MT Drag Radials it requires perfect track prep to hook it up, and the street, well not's not even talk about that.
So I'm considering stepping down to a 3200:
Does anyone have input on how much the 60 will be affected?
Also will it go a bit faster as far as trap speed?
And finally how much easier will it be to hook up?
My best from last night was 11.39 @ 125 with a 1.87 60, so I'm having to really baby it out of the hole. If a 3200 would yield me even a 1.70 I would be happy, the 3600 has went 1.60's before but only when the moons are aligned.
So I'm considering stepping down to a 3200:
Does anyone have input on how much the 60 will be affected?
Also will it go a bit faster as far as trap speed?
And finally how much easier will it be to hook up?
My best from last night was 11.39 @ 125 with a 1.87 60, so I'm having to really baby it out of the hole. If a 3200 would yield me even a 1.70 I would be happy, the 3600 has went 1.60's before but only when the moons are aligned.
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,216
Likes: 236
From: Wichita KS / Rancho San Diego
I don't think it will make much difference. I went from a TCI 3000 to the Yank 3600 and I could barely tell the difference. The 3600 flashes about 500rpm higher, but my 60', ET, and trap speed stayed the same.
I had hooking issues like you (conditions had to be perfect) until I started taking my MT's out to a closed road and seriously broiling them BEFORE I go to the track. Especially if they've been sitting for a while, just doing a burnout at the track is not enough to get them sticky.
I had hooking issues like you (conditions had to be perfect) until I started taking my MT's out to a closed road and seriously broiling them BEFORE I go to the track. Especially if they've been sitting for a while, just doing a burnout at the track is not enough to get them sticky.
Rex:
You will definitely regret the change if you are looking maintain at least a 1.70 60 ft (on the motor). If still spraying the car out of the hole then youll find you wont hurt the 60ft and will likely go faster if you were having traction issues on a SS3600.
Ive ran dozens of both converters in my own and customers cars.
mid-11 to 12.0 type ls1 fbodies usually 60 ft from 1.75-1.80 at best on a SS3200 on the motor.
I dont think you will pickup mph going to the small converter on motor or spray.
My recommendation would be get a 15" rear wheel/tire combo (I'd go 15x8 with 275/50/15 MT drag radial) and the car will likely start 60 footing much more consistently.
You will definitely regret the change if you are looking maintain at least a 1.70 60 ft (on the motor). If still spraying the car out of the hole then youll find you wont hurt the 60ft and will likely go faster if you were having traction issues on a SS3600.
Ive ran dozens of both converters in my own and customers cars.
mid-11 to 12.0 type ls1 fbodies usually 60 ft from 1.75-1.80 at best on a SS3200 on the motor.
I dont think you will pickup mph going to the small converter on motor or spray.
My recommendation would be get a 15" rear wheel/tire combo (I'd go 15x8 with 275/50/15 MT drag radial) and the car will likely start 60 footing much more consistently.
One thing I had considered, would be going back to a 17" wheel so I could use the Et Street, maybe I need to just stop trying the car at test and tune nights and stick to the days when they actually prep the track. LOL
Thanks for all the help, lots of good info here.
Thanks for all the help, lots of good info here.
I agree, stick with the stall you have and look at the suspension or possibly going to a wrinkle wall tire as previously mentioned. What kind of a burnout are you doing with the drag radials? I would really get em smoking, put a lot of heat in them and see if they hook any better that way. Also try dropping the pressure a little bit and see if that helps.
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My best ever 60ft with them was a 1.425 (last December when I ran my 9.950) and I'm regularly able to cut 1.46's with only a 1400RPM launch.
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The problem is with your tires, not the converter. I'm making about 600rwhp with my LS7 powered 2007 Corvette and have run several different sizes and brands of drag radials. Hands down the best combo so far has been the 275/40/17 Hoosier drag radials on C5 Z06 front wheels.
My best ever 60ft with them was a 1.425 (last December when I ran my 9.950) and I'm regularly able to cut 1.46's with only a 1400RPM launch.
My best ever 60ft with them was a 1.425 (last December when I ran my 9.950) and I'm regularly able to cut 1.46's with only a 1400RPM launch.
I learned a few things about the Hoosiers you might find helpful. The first is that you don't need a very long burnout with them. My 60fts started getting worse over time and it wasn't until I went through some of my scans (I log all my runs with HP Tuners) and compared them to my timeslips that I realized a longer burnout actually results in less traction. When I was cutting 1.46's again last week I would hit the throttle hard to get them spinning quickly and turn off the linelock to roll forward as soon as I saw smoke coming from both tires. I just looked at my last scan of the night and from the time I first hit the gas until I let up was less than 5 seconds (4.805 to be exact).
The other thing is to be sure and check the tire pressure before each and every run. Some people only check them once while cold but that's not the proper way to go about it since a good burnout can increase your tire pressure quite a bit or if the track starts getting cold, they can also lose quite a bit of pressure.
Good luck and be sure to post back how well they work.
Christopher
Thanks,I will be posting in the drag forum. Hopefully ill be posting in the 12s section as well. I have been chasing 12s the last 2 times I went to the track.
Hey to tell you the truth,Iv ran et street bias ply and et street radials up there last 2 times and I dont even need a burnout. I havent spun at all that I can tell so I just drive around the water box and go. Now after I get the stall that gonna be different and ill probly need a burnout.
Thanks for the advice Christopher,
Joe
Hey to tell you the truth,Iv ran et street bias ply and et street radials up there last 2 times and I dont even need a burnout. I havent spun at all that I can tell so I just drive around the water box and go. Now after I get the stall that gonna be different and ill probly need a burnout.
Thanks for the advice Christopher,
Joe
Thanks,I will be posting in the drag forum. Hopefully ill be posting in the 12s section as well. I have been chasing 12s the last 2 times I went to the track.
Hey to tell you the truth,Iv ran et street bias ply and et street radials up there last 2 times and I dont even need a burnout. I havent spun at all that I can tell so I just drive around the water box and go. Now after I get the stall that gonna be different and ill probly need a burnout.
Thanks for the advice Christopher,
Joe
Hey to tell you the truth,Iv ran et street bias ply and et street radials up there last 2 times and I dont even need a burnout. I havent spun at all that I can tell so I just drive around the water box and go. Now after I get the stall that gonna be different and ill probly need a burnout.
Thanks for the advice Christopher,
Joe
The other thing I just remembered was the importance of staging as shallow as possible as I've made back to back runs in the same car (only minutes apart) and saw almost a full tenth difference in the ETs. In case you're not familiar with what I'm talking about, it involves lighting the first bulb and then inching the car along until you just barely get the second one to light up. Here's an example of what it looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIa3L5mxLko
No problem at all, glad to help.
Christopher
As ramaircjm said, staging is important. Where you are in the beams is very important. You want to stage consistently. Bumping in is the best way like shown in the video. Just light the pre stage bulb, then pretty much pump the brake and inch the car forward into the stage beam. If you flicker the stage bulb then you are really shallow in the beams and that's where you will get your best e.t. due to more rollout. Right now each bump I take is 5/16 of an inch, so I am always within 5/16" of putting the car at the same spot on the starting line. This is ideal for bracket racing, which is what I do a lot of. You will get very consistent times if all goes well.
Yeah, you probably will start needing to do a burnout now as the Yank will make the car hit the tires a lot harder even if you're not making a ton of power.
The other thing I just remembered was the importance of staging as shallow as possible as I've made back to back runs in the same car (only minutes apart) and saw almost a full tenth difference in the ETs. In case you're not familiar with what I'm talking about, it involves lighting the first bulb and then inching the car along until you just barely get the second one to light up. Here's an example of what it looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIa3L5mxLko
No problem at all, glad to help.
Christopher
The other thing I just remembered was the importance of staging as shallow as possible as I've made back to back runs in the same car (only minutes apart) and saw almost a full tenth difference in the ETs. In case you're not familiar with what I'm talking about, it involves lighting the first bulb and then inching the car along until you just barely get the second one to light up. Here's an example of what it looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIa3L5mxLko
No problem at all, glad to help.
Christopher
Wow I had no idea about shallow staging! I will deff try it tomoro night. Problem with me is I get impatient to get the the lights lit. A full tenth is huge wow. Probly wouldnt be a tenth with my car but im sure it will help. Even if it would help to get me the .074 I need for 12s would be great. Thanks again guys ill be sure to post results on thursday
Yeah, you probably will start needing to do a burnout now as the Yank will make the car hit the tires a lot harder even if you're not making a ton of power.
The other thing I just remembered was the importance of staging as shallow as possible as I've made back to back runs in the same car (only minutes apart) and saw almost a full tenth difference in the ETs. In case you're not familiar with what I'm talking about, it involves lighting the first bulb and then inching the car along until you just barely get the second one to light up. Here's an example of what it looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIa3L5mxLko
No problem at all, glad to help.
Christopher
The other thing I just remembered was the importance of staging as shallow as possible as I've made back to back runs in the same car (only minutes apart) and saw almost a full tenth difference in the ETs. In case you're not familiar with what I'm talking about, it involves lighting the first bulb and then inching the car along until you just barely get the second one to light up. Here's an example of what it looks like:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LIa3L5mxLko
No problem at all, glad to help.
Christopher
Well, I cant really say cause I dont know. But I didnt know about the roll out before so I can imagine it helped me out the last time at the track. I went from 13.197, 13.2, 13.3 in 2000+da to 12.6 in -1000da no changes to the car on stock stall. First times at the track were on yokahomas and I didnt spin on the 13.197. Last time at the track I had hoosier drs and didnt feel I spun. I actualy think I would have had a lower time if it wasnt so windy up there.
