what would be the best converter for a dd and street strip on weekends for the 4l60e? or should i just go with a t56 6 speed?? thanks for any info.. 
trans question...
I would suggest to make a decision on auto or stick. A stalled auto is very fun but some guys just love banging the gears. If you decide on am auto, we have numerous options to pick from. Our 278mm HP Series is a great choice for a near stock DD. Or we can step it up to our Pro Series and make you fly!
Chris
Chris
Go for a built auto and a billet convertor from the ones mentioned. I just went thru my fourth M6 now with the viper output shaft this time. My fifth clutch going on six. Just got a lvl 4 from FLT ordered for my truck and if it works with its matching stall I'm swapping over to auto for my F body. As for stall speeds share all info with one of the above and don't cheap out. A good convertor will go for about 800-900. Just like a good clutch will run more. But a auto is more consistent and reliable than a M6.
TECH Apprentice
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From: Charlotte,NC
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
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ok so basically the auto is more reliable than the t56??? is this correct??
i just want to make sure its reliable and can handle the hwy race or weekend warrior attempt...
also what about a stall?? which one to use?? i dont want to kill my gas milage on my dd comm
ute to much,but i know i cant have both...any info will help alot.thanks in advance
-Tony
i just want to make sure its reliable and can handle the hwy race or weekend warrior attempt...
also what about a stall?? which one to use?? i dont want to kill my gas milage on my dd comm
ute to much,but i know i cant have both...any info will help alot.thanks in advance
-Tony
Last edited by tonytone4143; Sep 19, 2010 at 04:20 PM.
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I think so. My latest rebuild with a new clutch cost me around 4000. That's a new PST drive shaft. A good clutch,slave. And a built transmission. Had to replace bellhousing and bearing retainer plate also. Another 400 on top of that. So that's around 4400! Then my truck transmission went so as I shopped around for a trans/convertor combo. Going auto is more reliable and cheaper in long run. Banging gears my seem fun. But it gets expensive fast.
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Verdad Gallardo What size of cam and gears you have? What's been done to transmission? Being a DD at least a 3000 stall. And a good auxiliary cooler to help keep fluid cooler and in operating range.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2010
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as we speak the motor is stock ls1. i have 3.15 gears in the rear. i am just trying to decide on the trans..and that will determine if i will stroke the motor to a 383.. i just want something that is gonna have the ***** when i need it and still be my reliable dd.
My FTI converter is very tight for street driving (w/ 3.73 gears too), and it'll love the bottle...
Give Greg a call, he'll help spec the ideal converter.
If at any time you change setups (thus shifting your powerband around), you can send your converter back and he'll rebuild/restall for your new application - for free.
Give Greg a call, he'll help spec the ideal converter.
If at any time you change setups (thus shifting your powerband around), you can send your converter back and he'll rebuild/restall for your new application - for free.
No dumb questions. Just alot of stupid answers. Lol. A restall is they change It to say a 3000 to say a 4000. So basically buy from the three mentioned and when You go bigger cam or engine. And instead of having to buy another convertor. Restall current one to meet your needs. And no. Don't do this to a stock one. Internally They are different.