ALOT of play in my 4L60e
ALOT of play in my 4L60e So recently I have been experienceing a lot "clunk" shifting into D from P or from R to D. I thought it was the rear end back lash, had that check turns out it was it within the .008-.010th of backlash everything is fine with the rear. The shop that looked at it says its the trans that has a lot of play in the output shaft. The trans has been built 4 times now and I'd hate to keep throwing money at it, but I gotta have this fixed it so unpleasant to drive. Not only is the problem with shifting the trans always feels like its going to fall apart. Anything over 70 it feels like something is real loose. Any time there is a bump in the road the trans rattles. It sounds like the mount is broke but the mount was checked nothing wrong wit.
So my questions
First, what is the the problem and how can it be fixed?
Second, if it needs to be rebuilt do I spend the money on another 4L60 or go to a 4L80?
Any advise or recommendations would be great. Thanks
Z
So my questions
First, what is the the problem and how can it be fixed?
Second, if it needs to be rebuilt do I spend the money on another 4L60 or go to a 4L80?
Any advise or recommendations would be great. Thanks
Z
Your transmission isn't loose. If the bushings inside wore out to where it's as bad as you say, the worn bushings would cause internal fluid leaks, it wouldn't have sufficient fluid pressure.
The only exception might be the tail housing bushing. To check it the car has to be in neutral, otherwise it can feel tight.
Other than that the problem could be with the LCA bushings, panhard bushings, torque arm bushing/mount, transmission mount, engine mount, exhaust hangers, driveshaft out of balance, u-joints (again, must be checked in neutral), etc.
You need to find a real mechanic that won't just tell you whats wrong and not wrong with it. Find someone who can find the problem and fix it.
The only exception might be the tail housing bushing. To check it the car has to be in neutral, otherwise it can feel tight.
Other than that the problem could be with the LCA bushings, panhard bushings, torque arm bushing/mount, transmission mount, engine mount, exhaust hangers, driveshaft out of balance, u-joints (again, must be checked in neutral), etc.
You need to find a real mechanic that won't just tell you whats wrong and not wrong with it. Find someone who can find the problem and fix it.
I would concur that the trans would be unable to make the symptoms your listng.
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I'm wondering if you knocked the bushing out of the tailhousing, it would allow the driveline to wobble. I would grab the yoke and see if there is play side to side and up and down.
I did that when installing my driveline. Transmission doesn't have to come apart to fix it.
I did that when installing my driveline. Transmission doesn't have to come apart to fix it.
Your transmission isn't loose. If the bushings inside wore out to where it's as bad as you say, the worn bushings would cause internal fluid leaks, it wouldn't have sufficient fluid pressure.
The only exception might be the tail housing bushing. To check it the car has to be in neutral, otherwise it can feel tight.
Other than that the problem could be with the LCA bushings, panhard bushings, torque arm bushing/mount, transmission mount, engine mount, exhaust hangers, driveshaft out of balance, u-joints (again, must be checked in neutral), etc.
You need to find a real mechanic that won't just tell you whats wrong and not wrong with it. Find someone who can find the problem and fix it.
The only exception might be the tail housing bushing. To check it the car has to be in neutral, otherwise it can feel tight.
Other than that the problem could be with the LCA bushings, panhard bushings, torque arm bushing/mount, transmission mount, engine mount, exhaust hangers, driveshaft out of balance, u-joints (again, must be checked in neutral), etc.
You need to find a real mechanic that won't just tell you whats wrong and not wrong with it. Find someone who can find the problem and fix it.
The problem is they check everything. The driveshaft is balanced, the u-joints are new, the exhaust hangers are in good condition. I'll personnally check the LCA, Panhard, torque arm, trans mounts but how will i know they are bad? If they are greased what are signs they are bad?
The problem is they check everything. The driveshaft is balanced, the u-joints are new, the exhaust hangers are in good condition. I'll personnally check the LCA, Panhard, torque arm, trans mounts but how will i know they are bad? If they are greased what are signs they are bad?
If it's stock it may be bent, if it's not stock the pinion angle might need to be adjusted.
You can usually spot a bad bushing or mount by looking at it. There will be a break in the rubber, or rubber pieces hanging off it, looseness. Shiney spots.
Just curious, how do you have a car with all the mods in your signature and not know basic trouble shooting like this?
Is your torque arm stock?
If it's stock it may be bent, if it's not stock the pinion angle might need to be adjusted.
You can usually spot a bad bushing or mount by looking at it. There will be a break in the rubber, or rubber pieces hanging off it, looseness. Shiney spots.
Just curious, how do you have a car with all the mods in your signature and not know basic trouble shooting like this?
If it's stock it may be bent, if it's not stock the pinion angle might need to be adjusted.
You can usually spot a bad bushing or mount by looking at it. There will be a break in the rubber, or rubber pieces hanging off it, looseness. Shiney spots.
Just curious, how do you have a car with all the mods in your signature and not know basic trouble shooting like this?
Don't you think if the bushings had any signs of cracks, tears or abuse I would able to figure it out being bad. The car was a gift from my grandfather, which he wanted most of the work done properly, which he just pasted away, thanks for the help.
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Spohn Torque arm, proper pinion angle checked and set.
Don't you think if the bushings had any signs of cracks, tears or abuse I would able to figure it out being bad. The car was a gift from my grandfather, which he wanted most of the work done properly, which he just pasted away, thanks for the help.
Don't you think if the bushings had any signs of cracks, tears or abuse I would able to figure it out being bad. The car was a gift from my grandfather, which he wanted most of the work done properly, which he just pasted away, thanks for the help.
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Verdad Gallardo I know you mentioned the TA is tight did you check both the trans mount and the rear end mount? I've seen something similiar the bolts holding the TA onto the rear where slightly loose allowing the rear to rotate. We couldn't tell the TA was loose until we physically put a wrench on it.
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Joined: Oct 2010
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From: covington ga
what about checking the tq on the transmission bolts that run into the back of the engine block.. you said it's been pulled more then once, maybe the bolts need to be replaced after being removed and reinstalled several times. just a thought.
I know you mentioned the TA is tight did you check both the trans mount and the rear end mount? I've seen something similiar the bolts holding the TA onto the rear where slightly loose allowing the rear to rotate. We couldn't tell the TA was loose until we physically put a wrench on it.
Anyone have problems with the LCA relocation brackets with the LCA on the lowest hole? In another thread it was mentioned but don't remember and can't find what it was regarding.
I was assured new bolts were used since it was removed a number of times.
Last night I checked the bushings again everything looks fine. The TA bolts attached to the rear end r tight. The LCA were tight. The trans mount is in good condition too. What else could it b?
150 huh? I would never attempt it in my car, doesn't feel stable over 100.
150 huh? I would never attempt it in my car, doesn't feel stable over 100.
Just ask your builder if he used a case saver, thats what the solid spacer is called.
Since you have a 12 bolt I'm wondering how the driveshaft length was determined.
I've seen them too long and bottom out when the suspension compresses and break the bellhousing, sometimes it'll still run and drive. I've also seen driveshafts too short, the yoke doesn't engage enough and it's unstable. Something isn't right suspension wise if it ran fine on the dyno. Maybe it was strapped down and compressed the suspension enough to engage the yoke further.
It was suggested earlier to check the tail housing bushing for wear, did you do that?
If you want to isolate the problem somewhat, take the driveshaft out, put a yoke in the transmission and run it, see if the vibration is still there.
If you have a doubt about the transmission condition take the pan off, look for metal, also break the filter open, unfold the media and check for metal in there.
If that transmission is causing such a bad vibration the pan and filter will be full of garbage.
I've seen them too long and bottom out when the suspension compresses and break the bellhousing, sometimes it'll still run and drive. I've also seen driveshafts too short, the yoke doesn't engage enough and it's unstable. Something isn't right suspension wise if it ran fine on the dyno. Maybe it was strapped down and compressed the suspension enough to engage the yoke further.
It was suggested earlier to check the tail housing bushing for wear, did you do that?
If you want to isolate the problem somewhat, take the driveshaft out, put a yoke in the transmission and run it, see if the vibration is still there.
If you have a doubt about the transmission condition take the pan off, look for metal, also break the filter open, unfold the media and check for metal in there.
If that transmission is causing such a bad vibration the pan and filter will be full of garbage.
