Which tranny cooler should I get?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL
Which tranny cooler should I get? I've ordered the SY 3500 for my 2002 SS and I want a tranny cooler for it. I have been reading in another thread not to use rubber hoses to use metal or the AN-6 braided lines. My problem is I can't figure out which brand of cooler will work with the AN-6 lines. I want a 24,000 GVW cooler. I found in the Summit catalogue a Flex-a-lite 7.5"x15"x3/4" or a 7.5"x20"x3/4" that uses the AN-6 lines. How do they compare with the B&M 24000 GVW whose size is 11"x6"x1.5". Is the Flex-a-lite a good tranny cooler or do you guys recommend a better one? Thanks
You want a plate type cooler like the B&M Supercooler. I use the basic rubber hoses with no problems. You can get that from Summit/Jegs but several of our sponsors should be able to get it for you at the same price.
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From: Georgia
I just bought the B&M supercooler that was listed as RACING and is the largest they have. Even at that it is only 11" x 8" and I believe 1 1/2 " I still haven't figured out where I'm gonna mount it yet though. It was $59 and some change.
I can get the part number tmorrow it's in my car which is at the shop right now. I've asked for some pics of where everyone else mounted theirs with no replies yet.
I can get the part number tmorrow it's in my car which is at the shop right now. I've asked for some pics of where everyone else mounted theirs with no replies yet.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL
That is the one I was looking at. I understand that it only has clip/slip on fittings? and you can't attach the AN-6 lines. Is that true? What do the fittings look like on your B&M?
Launching!
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Tampa, FL
Hey Tricia, the 24K B&M is what I have on my th400 now and used with my 4400 stall in the 4L60E. For the 4L60E I used the stock tranny lines and short rubber lines to connect the cooler, with the th400 I have -6AN fittings on the tranny so I used SS braided hose up to the cooler where I then use an adapter to go to a short rubber hose to the cooler. Seems to be fine. 
What's up with you guys? Anything new?
What's up with you guys? Anything new?
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From: Georgia
Mine has threaded fittings which I was told I could get a 1/2' NPT fitting that has a slide on fitting on it so I would not have to but the expensive braided lines.
It seems like several people are running this cooler can someone snap me a pic before this weekend?
It seems like several people are running this cooler can someone snap me a pic before this weekend?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL
Originally Posted by Joe99SS
Hey Tricia, the 24K B&M is what I have on my th400 now and used with my 4400 stall in the 4L60E. For the 4L60E I used the stock tranny lines and short rubber lines to connect the cooler, with the th400 I have -6AN fittings on the tranny so I used SS braided hose up to the cooler where I then use an adapter to go to a short rubber hose to the cooler. Seems to be fine.
What's up with you guys? Anything new?
What's up with you guys? Anything new?
Question, on your B&M, how did you go from a stock transmission line to the rubber line? Did you cut the stock line and hose clamp the rubber hose to it? I'm keeping my stock tranny, the A4, and I don't think it has the AN-6 fittings on it to convert the lines.
Thanks
Last edited by Hyper Chick; Feb 2, 2004 at 09:31 PM.
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From: Orlando, FL
What I wrote about AN lines in the other thread has been taken out of context. In the other thread someone was moving to a 200R4 and was planning on bending tubing to create all new lines. I suggested AN lines as the better alternative. I never suggested converting lines to AN in a stock application.
I just installed a B&M in my car two days ago with basic rubber hoses and clamps. This was for a 4L60E that has the factory steel lines. Switching to AN in this case would not only be expensive but would buy you nothing.
Hyper Chick,
The B&M I installed is part #70264 (19K-24K GVW, 7-3/8"H x 11"W x 1-1/2"D). I installed it with the fittings pointing towards the passenger side of the car. The cooler itself fits perfectly between the top rail the radiator support bolts to and the bottom rail the radiator rests on. The hoses run around the side of the condensor/radiator to the appropriate fittings. The top fitting on the factory cooler is the return line to the transmission. You will want to route from the top radiator fitting to the B&M and then from the B&M to the factory return line. I saw a drop of about 20 degrees F in traffic/idling conditions. If you need pics let me know and I'll take a couple tomorrow.
For anyone looking for AN equipped coolers see http://www.tciauto.com/cooling.htm. I used one on my previous TH400 setup.
Tim
I just installed a B&M in my car two days ago with basic rubber hoses and clamps. This was for a 4L60E that has the factory steel lines. Switching to AN in this case would not only be expensive but would buy you nothing.
Hyper Chick,
The B&M I installed is part #70264 (19K-24K GVW, 7-3/8"H x 11"W x 1-1/2"D). I installed it with the fittings pointing towards the passenger side of the car. The cooler itself fits perfectly between the top rail the radiator support bolts to and the bottom rail the radiator rests on. The hoses run around the side of the condensor/radiator to the appropriate fittings. The top fitting on the factory cooler is the return line to the transmission. You will want to route from the top radiator fitting to the B&M and then from the B&M to the factory return line. I saw a drop of about 20 degrees F in traffic/idling conditions. If you need pics let me know and I'll take a couple tomorrow.
For anyone looking for AN equipped coolers see http://www.tciauto.com/cooling.htm. I used one on my previous TH400 setup.
Tim
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On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Doniphan, MO
The 'stacked plate' design, B&M, etc. is the most efficient in that it takes a smaller 'stacked plate' to get the same cooling capacity as the other styles.
As far as what kind of lines and connectors goes, the cooler usually comes with some fittings. However, there are a few that do not. The only problem with 'rubber' is if you try to run it a longer distance. Most installations only require a couple of feet or less. Just make sure you get "hydralic" type hose for the application. If you run the lines through 'line hangers' so they don't flop around, the rubber is safe to use. It (rubber) becomes a problem when you get near a heat source. That is why the factory uses both types of lines.
As far as what kind of lines and connectors goes, the cooler usually comes with some fittings. However, there are a few that do not. The only problem with 'rubber' is if you try to run it a longer distance. Most installations only require a couple of feet or less. Just make sure you get "hydralic" type hose for the application. If you run the lines through 'line hangers' so they don't flop around, the rubber is safe to use. It (rubber) becomes a problem when you get near a heat source. That is why the factory uses both types of lines.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL
Originally Posted by TimZ28
Hyper,
I was supposed to take some this morning for another thread but I didn't get an opportunity. I will definitely be taking some tomorrow morning.
Tim
I was supposed to take some this morning for another thread but I didn't get an opportunity. I will definitely be taking some tomorrow morning.
Tim
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Wesley Chapel, FL
Originally Posted by 01Z71GMC
I don't understand why you have to have AN fittings. If your cooler has FPTs just use an adapter. All the AN fitting manufacturers make them.
TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2002
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From: Orlando, FL
Hyper,
I tooks some pics yesterday but before I could take the one that showed the orientation clearly of the cooler the batteries died. As soon as I recharge them I'll take the last pic.
The beauty of AN is that you will ensure a leak free connection. Using an adaptor brings you back to clamps which have the potential to fail. I don't think Hyper needs AN at all but if you were going to go the AN route it would be foolish to not use a cooler that requires only AN.
Tim
I tooks some pics yesterday but before I could take the one that showed the orientation clearly of the cooler the batteries died. As soon as I recharge them I'll take the last pic.
The beauty of AN is that you will ensure a leak free connection. Using an adaptor brings you back to clamps which have the potential to fail. I don't think Hyper needs AN at all but if you were going to go the AN route it would be foolish to not use a cooler that requires only AN.
Tim