Who has a Revmaxx Converter please post your experience
01-07-2011, 09:44 AM
#82
My first post I said this:
To go back a bit and answer your question and help some of your reading comprehension issues.
OBVIOUSLY a Stock Eliminator or Super Stock car is not a street driven car. However some ARE running lockup converters. TH350C's and 200C's with functioning lockup.
Your lack of attention again here:
Billet covers add weight and on a serious combo this is a consideration.
I never said we were comparing a STOCK converter to a 9.5". Billet cover vs. non billet cover.
Your post stating:
You obviously failed to read my first post when I said:
Nothing changes here whether I am selling it or one of the sponsor converter companies, or another converter company. I'm not trying to hide anything and the markup for a billet or non-billet is the same for me, so I have no reason to sell one over the other except to make sure the customer gets what they need. There is nothing wrong with "overbuilding" and in cases where the customer believes they may grow later, we may recommend a billet unit when the non-billet would work at current power levels.
You really can't read can you?
See above where I posted in my FIRST post that they have their place,but aren't always a requirement.
OBVIOUSLY a Stock Eliminator or Super Stock car is not a street driven car. However some ARE running lockup converters. TH350C's and 200C's with functioning lockup.
Your lack of attention again here:
Billet covers add weight and on a serious combo this is a consideration.
Originally Posted by 01ssreda4
Which is why a race car will run a non-lock-up converter or clutch apply surface will be irrelevant in a primarily race driven vehicle. On a street car, your telling me that going from a 50+ pound stock converter to a 35 pound billet front converter is something to take into consideration? Are you saying that is a disadvantage. What are you even saying?
Your post stating:
You obviously failed to read my first post when I said:
Originally Posted by Jake's Performance
The billet cover converters that Yank, PI, Circle-D, MYSELF and others sell
You DID however say that "marketing is obviously working here" therefor implying that billet converters are unwarranted in anyone's application on this board.
I never said or implied that a billet converter wasn't warranted in any application here. Your poor reading again...
I have several LS1Tech members who are using our billet converters, others who are using Cicle-D's
"We have non-billet cover lockup converters in 700 HP combos that have been alive for 3+ yrs now without issue."
What does this have to do with anything??
It gives an example of a successful combo using a non-billet converter in a relatively stout combo
"There is more to the lockup than whether the cover is billet or not. The lockup material, bonding process, surfaces etc."
So are you saying that there is a non-billet unit that is superior to a billet in regards to manufacturing process? If so please explain. Do you have any experience with Rexmax? Please tell us if you do.
Yes,
A billet cover for a 9.5" converter can be bought for ~$125 by a converter shop. Any converter shop can weld the cover on without doing any internal improvements.
It's probably a waste of time to try here with your reading comprehension skills but I will get deeper into the build process.
Clutch material:
Lots of options, the better companies are probably using a carbon based material or other proprietary materials.
Bonding agent:
The quality of the glue used and how it is applied.
The apply area of the clutch piston.
Whether the fins are tig welded and or furnace brazed.
Torrington bearings used?
The quality of the stator and sprag element.
The overall attention to detail,build height and internal clearance, balancing, etc.
My builder buys unattached friction discs made of a proprietary material, uses the best glue available, "makes a record player" cut in the piston where the friction goes for more surface area, applies the glue and friction which gets baked into place in a press, then the excess glue is lathe cut off. They do this because they have seen problems with other materials and discs coming loose.
I refuse to let people like you and others come in here and say billet converters have no place and aren't worth the money, yet you "carry a full line of them"
I never said or implied that a billet converter wasn't warranted in any application here. Your poor reading again...
I have several LS1Tech members who are using our billet converters, others who are using Cicle-D's
"We have non-billet cover lockup converters in 700 HP combos that have been alive for 3+ yrs now without issue."
What does this have to do with anything??
It gives an example of a successful combo using a non-billet converter in a relatively stout combo
"There is more to the lockup than whether the cover is billet or not. The lockup material, bonding process, surfaces etc."
So are you saying that there is a non-billet unit that is superior to a billet in regards to manufacturing process? If so please explain. Do you have any experience with Rexmax? Please tell us if you do.
Yes,
A billet cover for a 9.5" converter can be bought for ~$125 by a converter shop. Any converter shop can weld the cover on without doing any internal improvements.
It's probably a waste of time to try here with your reading comprehension skills but I will get deeper into the build process.
Clutch material:
Lots of options, the better companies are probably using a carbon based material or other proprietary materials.
Bonding agent:
The quality of the glue used and how it is applied.
The apply area of the clutch piston.
Whether the fins are tig welded and or furnace brazed.
Torrington bearings used?
The quality of the stator and sprag element.
The overall attention to detail,build height and internal clearance, balancing, etc.
My builder buys unattached friction discs made of a proprietary material, uses the best glue available, "makes a record player" cut in the piston where the friction goes for more surface area, applies the glue and friction which gets baked into place in a press, then the excess glue is lathe cut off. They do this because they have seen problems with other materials and discs coming loose.
I refuse to let people like you and others come in here and say billet converters have no place and aren't worth the money, yet you "carry a full line of them"
See above where I posted in my FIRST post that they have their place,but aren't always a requirement.
01-07-2011, 10:26 AM
#83
"You need some reading comprehension classes..."
This must be your favorite rebuttal when someone disagrees with you. Seems like I may have read it before....................
If it applies, as I've shown here based on your responses, you either need Hooked on Phonics or maybe nothing will help you.
"What is it that you do for a living?
It obviously doesn't involve lots of experience building transmissions or converters."
What I do for a living is irrelevant. And again, that has NOTHING to do with what we are talking about. You continue to try to manipulate this conversation with crap that doesn't mean ****.
It is relevant. I was an ASE certified Master Tech LONG before I knew what I know now from doing this everyday. You may be a good mechanic or weekend DIY'er but until you do it EVERY day, and see what works or doesn't work on hundreds of combos, you don't have the relative experience.
So you had two engine thrust failures that you believe may have been caused by the converter.
It very well may have been caused by the converter, or it could be other issues. If it was caused by the converter, it could be caused by things others than whether or not it had a billet cover. A billet cover does prevent ballooning, but unless you measured the converter endplay (before and) after the failure it's a guess. The thrust bearing failure caused by a converter is something that has been studied extensively. Other converter related causes can be the fluid flow OUT of the converter. The transmission fills the converter, too much charge pressure can cause thrust issues, but the fluid flow out of the converter also affects this. Cooler or cooler line restriction can also cause excessive converter pressures, converter pilot hub length can cause thrust failure, hub to input shaft spline engagement. etc.
"I did not state billet converters have no place, I stated CLEARLY that they DO have their place, but it is not necessarily in a 300-500 HP car."
WHAT is there place then? Give me one piece of information that you stand behind. Please.
Generally I like to see a billet converter in ANY application 800 HP and over.
ANY application that does WOT lockup, except Stock class cars.
Anything using large amounts (300+ shot) of N20.
Otherwise,
in the 500-800 HP range it is a variable. We take all the factors into consideration. Overall usage, N20, room to grow, forced induction, cost difference.
Below 500 HP, generally they are not needed. A well built non-billet converter will work for years. We have 9.5" "Cavalier" 4 cylinder converters in pickups that tow race cars and trailers to the track with non-billet covers.
"My point was that just because a converter doesn't have a billet cover, doesn't make it junk as you stated."
Thats your opinion. I purchased and owned an Edge 3200 non-billet converter. Paid $550 for it. Andre at Edge was great to deal with. He was very helpful. But that isn't the point of this thread.
This must be your favorite rebuttal when someone disagrees with you. Seems like I may have read it before....................
If it applies, as I've shown here based on your responses, you either need Hooked on Phonics or maybe nothing will help you.
"What is it that you do for a living?
It obviously doesn't involve lots of experience building transmissions or converters."
What I do for a living is irrelevant. And again, that has NOTHING to do with what we are talking about. You continue to try to manipulate this conversation with crap that doesn't mean ****.
It is relevant. I was an ASE certified Master Tech LONG before I knew what I know now from doing this everyday. You may be a good mechanic or weekend DIY'er but until you do it EVERY day, and see what works or doesn't work on hundreds of combos, you don't have the relative experience.
So you had two engine thrust failures that you believe may have been caused by the converter.
It very well may have been caused by the converter, or it could be other issues. If it was caused by the converter, it could be caused by things others than whether or not it had a billet cover. A billet cover does prevent ballooning, but unless you measured the converter endplay (before and) after the failure it's a guess. The thrust bearing failure caused by a converter is something that has been studied extensively. Other converter related causes can be the fluid flow OUT of the converter. The transmission fills the converter, too much charge pressure can cause thrust issues, but the fluid flow out of the converter also affects this. Cooler or cooler line restriction can also cause excessive converter pressures, converter pilot hub length can cause thrust failure, hub to input shaft spline engagement. etc.
"I did not state billet converters have no place, I stated CLEARLY that they DO have their place, but it is not necessarily in a 300-500 HP car."
WHAT is there place then? Give me one piece of information that you stand behind. Please.
Generally I like to see a billet converter in ANY application 800 HP and over.
ANY application that does WOT lockup, except Stock class cars.
Anything using large amounts (300+ shot) of N20.
Otherwise,
in the 500-800 HP range it is a variable. We take all the factors into consideration. Overall usage, N20, room to grow, forced induction, cost difference.
Below 500 HP, generally they are not needed. A well built non-billet converter will work for years. We have 9.5" "Cavalier" 4 cylinder converters in pickups that tow race cars and trailers to the track with non-billet covers.
"My point was that just because a converter doesn't have a billet cover, doesn't make it junk as you stated."
Thats your opinion. I purchased and owned an Edge 3200 non-billet converter. Paid $550 for it. Andre at Edge was great to deal with. He was very helpful. But that isn't the point of this thread.
I've dealt with Andre, I have several customers running his converters that I know of. One being the 700 HP 496 BBC I mentioned previously in a street/strip Camaro that run's 6.50s in the 1/8th. I know of two "local" guys using Andre's converters with my 4L80E's in that power range with success for at least two years now.
I have plenty who use my non-billet units at the 500-700 HP range successfully, and I have plenty who are using my (or Circle Ds) billet converters at the 800-1200 HP level.
I have to warranty what I put out on the market, I also have a hard earned reputation to uphold, it is not in my best interest to send a customer out with a product that is doomed to fail. I wouldn't be here on LS1Tech paying sponsorship fees if I wasn't capable of building a successful product.
I'm not here to take anything away from any of the other vendors, whether they be transmission or converter builders. I don't really play in the same sandbox as FLT or Performabuilt on transmissions, we specialize in 4L80E's and TH400's, the 4L60E is their bread and butter. As I stated previously, te markup on the converters I sell is minimal and it is the same no matter what I sell. I do this to help save my transmission customers some $$ while getting them a quality product that fills their needs. If they choose to get another brand of converter, I have NO issues with that, as the markup on the converters I sell isn't enough to justify selling them. I make my profit on the transmission side.
Chris as Circle-D can attest to the fact that I have several customers using his converters, and in every one of those cases, I sent them to him. If they ask about converter they want to use, I don't try to sell mine. Usually the customer wants some verification that a converter company is good from me, and I have no probem giving Chris at Circle-D the thumbs up, or most any other converter company. Lots of customers using lots of different converters gives me a fairly good insight of the industry.
01-07-2011, 12:02 PM
#84
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Blue and green writing? You really have nothing better to do, do you? I didn''t read none of that fruitcake ****. Im done with this thread. You are the worst sponsor I have ever seen on this board, and you haven't been a sponsor long.
To the rest, buy a Revmax, buy a TCI, Edge, or whatever other cheap converter you desire. You aren't reinventing the wheel here. I have read and heard of bunch of stories of the cheaper converters spitting clutch into trans and taking them out. Don't believe me? I don't care, I was only trying to help, nothing more, nothing less.
To the rest, buy a Revmax, buy a TCI, Edge, or whatever other cheap converter you desire. You aren't reinventing the wheel here. I have read and heard of bunch of stories of the cheaper converters spitting clutch into trans and taking them out. Don't believe me? I don't care, I was only trying to help, nothing more, nothing less.
Last edited by 01ssreda4; 01-07-2011 at 01:07 PM.
01-07-2011, 12:26 PM
#85
I have a question for you? Have you started your period yet because you are EXTREMELY bitchy.
Seriously, no one is forcing you to reply dude, if no one is listening to what you have to say, why bother to continue?
Lastly, I love the personal attacks
. Can't win the argument with logic and facts so you revert to a 5 year old and start throwing mud. Love it.... 
01-07-2011, 02:03 PM
#88
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Blue and green writing? You really have nothing better to do, do you? I didn''t read none of that fruitcake ****. Im done with this thread. You are the worst sponsor I have ever seen on this board, and you haven't been a sponsor long.
To the rest, buy a Revmax, buy a TCI, Edge, or whatever other cheap converter you desire. You aren't reinventing the wheel here. I have read and heard of bunch of stories of the cheaper converters spitting clutch into trans and taking them out. Don't believe me? I don't care, I was only trying to help, nothing more, nothing less.
To the rest, buy a Revmax, buy a TCI, Edge, or whatever other cheap converter you desire. You aren't reinventing the wheel here. I have read and heard of bunch of stories of the cheaper converters spitting clutch into trans and taking them out. Don't believe me? I don't care, I was only trying to help, nothing more, nothing less.
If I could afford the best parts for every part of my car I would get the best parts but I cant and I make due with what I can afford. Is that wrong? Am I an idiot because I cant afford a 750.00 converter but I can afford a 260.00 converter?
01-07-2011, 07:11 PM
#94
Pepper jack??? Pimento??? WTF!!! You people are obviously "uneducated idiots"!! Anyone who knows their cheese would realize that the quality is determined by the deep orange color. I'm not saying that pepperjack and pimento and others don't have their place. Sure, if you're a professional eater maybe the pepperjack or a nice swiss is needed. But for the occasional weekend hamburger muncher, cheddar is all you need. Obviously the alternative cheese marketing is working here.
01-07-2011, 07:20 PM
#95
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Pepper jack??? Pimento??? WTF!!! You people are obviously "uneducated idiots"!! Anyone who knows their cheese would realize that the quality is determined by the deep orange color. I'm not saying that pepperjack and pimento and others don't have their place. Sure, if you're a professional eater maybe the pepperjack or a nice swiss is needed. But for the occasional weekend hamburger muncher, cheddar is all you need. Obviously the alternative cheese marketing is working here.
01-07-2011, 08:12 PM
#96
Anyone with a Revmax converter putting up respectable times on motor? You high 12 second and slower kiddies can stay out with your cheap converters. I want to see a something along the lines of a NA 346 going 1.4x at full weight. You can cut 1.6 60' times with a stock converter with sticky tires and spray... Even my 2200rpm restalled 12" converter in a sub 300HP thirdgen went 1.6x
01-07-2011, 10:16 PM
#98
Any info on RevMax fuel economy would be helpful for the guys that daily drive their cars, too.
Anyone with a Revmax converter putting up respectable times on motor? You high 12 second and slower kiddies can stay out with your cheap converters. I want to see a something along the lines of a NA 346 going 1.4x at full weight. You can cut 1.6 60' times with a stock converter with sticky tires and spray... Even my 2200rpm restalled 12" converter in a sub 300HP thirdgen went 1.6x
01-07-2011, 11:31 PM
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Anyone with a Revmax converter putting up respectable times on motor? You high 12 second and slower kiddies can stay out with your cheap converters. I want to see a something along the lines of a NA 346 going 1.4x at full weight. You can cut 1.6 60' times with a stock converter with sticky tires and spray... Even my 2200rpm restalled 12" converter in a sub 300HP thirdgen went 1.6x
best 60ft on spray is a 1.53