No doubt, a valve spring upgrade is basically a must from what I've read. I would definitely be doing that plus a U/D pulley with the cam..


So the general concensus is that a stock 4L60E won't last long on a cam-only/bolt on f-body? I have to rethink doing the cam then.. I already know the cam is gonna cost nice $$ but I can't be dropping thousands of $$ on driveline/transmission stuff on top of that at this point. Plus I'd hate myself for ruining a perfectly good transmission at an attempt to get more power.. like ~340rwhp wasnt enough Decisions decisions

 

If your paranoid, I guess..

Installed ms4 and 4400 converter in my 98 at 100k.. then heads gears intake.. was running 7.2@96-97 spinning.. at 116k when I sold it it was still running strong as ever. It has over 120k now and still doing good.
It is a toss up but as long as nothing is already about to break it should last for a very long time..

 

You had an angel on your shoulder. For every story of a 4L60E holding up to good power there are 20 more examples of them blowing up on stock power. Not saying it couldn't hold up just saying I sure as hell wouldn't count on it.

 

Me... and my buddies z and trans am.. the other two that both sprayed heads cam cars with 200 hits. I could go on but no reason.

They are stronger than people give credit for, no doubt about that. Be has just as much chance with that as he does blowing the rear.

 

Thanks for the info lemons, definitely helpful. Any ideas on how much a good trans cooler runs? Just trying to factor in the total cost of the cam install.

Also forgot to mention I'm in the northeast so the car isn't driven for 5 months out of the year. Hopefully this + the fact that it won't ever see the track should put me in the clear.

 

40-75$.. We buy ours from autozone. Iirc Its around 55$, could be off though.

 

That's not too bad. I'd like to keep the whole cam setup under 1k if possible. Very doubtful though because I won't be doing it myself.