A4 Stall 2-3 Shift
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A4 Stall 2-3 Shift I recently had an FTI 3600 stall put in and had it tuned. The shifts feel fine at light throttle--but with alot of throttle the 2-3 shift feels strange. The best way I can describe it is that it feels like torque management stepping in.
Ive had back to the tuner and let him feel it and he even tweaked the tune a bit more. He said its as agressive as he felt you should go with the trans though. It still has that feeling only with heavy throttle.
Just wondering what others experiences are with shifting feel.
Bob
Ive had back to the tuner and let him feel it and he even tweaked the tune a bit more. He said its as agressive as he felt you should go with the trans though. It still has that feeling only with heavy throttle.
Just wondering what others experiences are with shifting feel.
Bob
Shifts wont jurk as hard cause the converter has alot more slip, My bros 06 silverado had a torque management delay cause the ecm thought the trans was sliping, we ended up having to take all the tm out, then we maxxed out the line psi at wot, but at part throddle it felt fine after we to the tm out..
It's a mechanical timing problem between the 2nd servo kicking off and the third clutch coming on. If it's doing it at high throttle then the 3-4 clutch isn't going to last long.
Your signature says you have a cam, exhaust, etc. If you have torque management still, well, dumb idea.
Your signature says you have a cam, exhaust, etc. If you have torque management still, well, dumb idea.
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2009
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It's a mechanical timing problem between the 2nd servo kicking off and the third clutch coming on. If it's doing it at high throttle then the 3-4 clutch isn't going to last long.
Your signature says you have a cam, exhaust, etc. If you have torque management still, well, dumb idea.
Your signature says you have a cam, exhaust, etc. If you have torque management still, well, dumb idea.
My 2-3 shift felt awful after my converter so I had it tuned but it still was less than perfect. I put a TransGo kit in and it's been fine ever since. I'm still running the stock trans that's never been opened up.
I have a question. Why put mechanical parts into your car to increase it's power potential, then limit power with torque management?
Heres another thought. Everyone wants to keep TM to help the transmission live longer, how that working out for you?
Bottom line, add power-modify the parts that need to help get it to the ground.
You need to do at least two things. Speed up the 3rd apply, and increase it's holding potential.
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The higher stall speed is letting it shift at a higher rpm where there is more power.
I have a question. Why put mechanical parts into your car to increase it's power potential, then limit power with torque management?
Heres another thought. Everyone wants to keep TM to help the transmission live longer, how that working out for you?
Bottom line, add power-modify the parts that need to help get it to the ground.
You need to do at least two things. Speed up the 3rd apply, and increase it's holding potential.
I have a question. Why put mechanical parts into your car to increase it's power potential, then limit power with torque management?
Heres another thought. Everyone wants to keep TM to help the transmission live longer, how that working out for you?
Bottom line, add power-modify the parts that need to help get it to the ground.
You need to do at least two things. Speed up the 3rd apply, and increase it's holding potential.
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You need to do at least two things. Speed up the 3rd apply, and increase it's holding potential.
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Verdad Gallardo Increase the mechanical line pressure, enlarge the 3rd feed hole in the seperator plate, size the band release hole accordingly, adjust second servo travel, upgrade the 3-4 clutch to a good friction material and set the clearance properly, (as in not by the specs in a rebuilders book, performance specs), disable the 3-2 valve, get rid of torque management 100%, find someone who knows how to tune a transmission.
Thread Starter
12 Second Club
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 112
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Increase the mechanical line pressure, enlarge the 3rd feed hole in the seperator plate, size the band release hole accordingly, adjust second servo travel, upgrade the 3-4 clutch to a good friction material and set the clearance properly, (as in not by the specs in a rebuilders book, performance specs), disable the 3-2 valve, get rid of torque management 100%, find someone who knows how to tune a transmission.
I've never been in an automotive classroom, and never worked as an auto mechanic.
You have a very common problem thats going to eventually lead to the 3-4 clutch failing, people who sell built transmissions aren't necessarily going to tell you how to fix yours or prevent it from failing when you might be their next customer looking to buy a complete transmission.
The difference between me and them is that I've found out the hard way from some builders who know I'm always going to build my own, or from trial and error. It's weird how once I find certain things out transmission builders will talk to me about it and more.
And about tuning, I've seen tunes done by reputable sponsors on this site that weren't done correctly in the transmission section.
You have a very common problem thats going to eventually lead to the 3-4 clutch failing, people who sell built transmissions aren't necessarily going to tell you how to fix yours or prevent it from failing when you might be their next customer looking to buy a complete transmission.
The difference between me and them is that I've found out the hard way from some builders who know I'm always going to build my own, or from trial and error. It's weird how once I find certain things out transmission builders will talk to me about it and more.
And about tuning, I've seen tunes done by reputable sponsors on this site that weren't done correctly in the transmission section.
