I've been unable to stall higher than 2000 rpm with my TCI 3500.
Could this be due to my rear stock brakes guetting weak??

Would upgrading to powerslot or Baer cure this??

if not what could cause this?

Mark

 

Thats about where they start to pull when stalling them up. I will only bit at 3500 if you hit from an idle. You should be able to hold it to 2200 you brakes may something to do with it.

 

I'm puzzled!! I was under the impression one could stall that TC till 3000 or so.

 

Nope sorry man because im going to a 4400 now and you can only hold those to around 2500 the way I understand.

 

Describe your launch method please

 

Once Im staged I hold the brake just so i dont roll. Pick the rpms up to around 2000 then you can start to feel the rear end and drive shaft load up. Once it loaded dont rev any higher you can take the chance of breaking the tires loose. When the last yellow comes nail it. It works for me. Some people keep it at an idle and just nail it, like that it hits at the rpm its supposed to (3500) but I think its hard to get a good light like that and tires ALWAYS break loose on me.

 

The reason we don't blow up rear ends like the M6 folks is because we can PRELOAD the rear end/tranny by brake stalling the car as much as possible. I could imagine just nailing it from idle would be similar to an M6 car dropping the clutch at a similar rpm and then some on the rear end.

You can always add more power or more tire if either give you problem But breaking crap with wheelhop is what you're trying to avoid no matter what your style is.

if you're wheel hopping, and you can feel it, your drivetrain is taking a massive beating.

If i go to the track with my new mods and start wheelhopping i'll probably stop for the night and figure out what the issue is before i break a trans or rear end from having fun

 

No wheel hop, I have poly bushings and BMR component, I run MT ET's. I guess I'll try it one time both ways and decide.

 

defo and lemme know how those ET's work, i'm considering them. But i'd like to hear what your results are!

 

When doing a stall test, hold brakes and quickly open throttle, the engine should rev to near the stall rating (slightly higher or lower due to the convertor stall being rated at X horsepower) If it does not thats a possible of sign of the stator clutch not holding.

 

Still not as bad as an M6 even when doing that. When i had a ST 3500, I launched by nailing it from 800 rpm. Never a complaint from my stock 3.23 rear.

 

Well from a "race idle" of 750 rpm. It Launched and like u said, stalled to around 3300-3400 and off we went.
I took the front sway bar off for better weight transfer. 1.69 60' and a time off 11.92/116mph.
Man I need to loose weight! LOL

Still stock tranny and 10 bolt with 3:73's and T/A cover.

It didn't feel like murder on the drivetrain.

 

the ONLY way you will get a true idea of what you are stalling, or at least achieve it, is either with slicks or a transbrake.