confused on stalls
04-22-2011, 09:54 AM
#21
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I think you should stop posting... I get the feeling that you are probably one of those guys who believes that an Auto isnt fun on the street and the only way to have fun is own a manual transmission...
guys are going up to a half second quicker bone stock with only a stall...
its not a waste of gas...if going from 23mpg to 22mpg is a waste... then you shouldnt drive a v8 in the first place.
guys are going up to a half second quicker bone stock with only a stall...
its not a waste of gas...if going from 23mpg to 22mpg is a waste... then you shouldnt drive a v8 in the first place.
04-22-2011, 10:04 AM
#22
TECH Resident
you dont need a stall till you get a cam...it's a waste of money....and a stall WILL cost a lot in gas for a DD. i have a 3400stall and it locks up at 48mph...which means untill I get to 48mph the stall is eating gas because its turnig the motor at a higher RPM to move the car. When the stall locks up it's like adding another gear. The cool thing about the stalls is that it keeps the motor reving while the trans is shifting..it never drops down between gear changes.....does that make any sence??
SteveC
04-22-2011, 10:12 AM
#23
First off I DO have a auto with a stall and cam.....its a blast. your right you will pick up a little time at the track...agreed.....but if your driving back roads and the stall does not lock up your turning at a hight RPM right!.......wasting gas. i drive the highway as offen as possible so that the stall locks in ...at that point I do get good gas miliage Hey at 4 bucks a gallon what ever.
your stall can be made to lock up at a lower mph, and you can tune it to behave nicer for your gear and stall speed.
consider that the stock Tune is designed around the stock converter
you can drive on a big stall on teh stock tune, but its not the most optimal.
you will benefit the most from changing the shift points to match up with the bigger stall by keeping it in lower gears for longer..allowing you to stay at lower rpms by utilizing gear multiplication
I have 6 gears and my car doesnt shift out of 1st below 16mph and 2nd has a low point of 22mph
the stock a4 tune has a low point of 11mph for 1st and 17mph for 2nd..
4 gears should hold out longer for Higher MPH before shifting into the next gear.
your 3rd gear is like my 5th gear....
3rd (1:1)stock A4 lowest mph to shift up to 4th is 24mph..WTF? really... that is the reason you are stuck spinning high rpms...
my 5th (1:1) deosnt start until minimum 46mph at 0-7% TPS
I'm not into my 6th (overdrive 0.75:1) until almost 60 mph most of the time
I'm also a 3.42 gear vs the standard 3.23
I live off of a back road... I have 10 minutes of back road driving every day just to get to civilization...
IF turning 2-3 k is high rpm, then you wont like higher rear gears either...
cruising down the highway I sit at 2500 rpm locked....
around town I typically see 2500-3000 rpm most of the time... going up the steep *** hill leading towards my place I see 3500 rpm if I want to really hurry up the hill and get my foot a little too heavy....
I drive a 4400 stall
Learn that the PROBLEM IS NOT THE STALL
its your crappy trans tune
04-22-2011, 10:32 AM
#24
as an example....
this would make more sense for a bigger stall
assuming 6000 rpm shift, 245/55/16 tires, and a 3.23 gear
Parth throttle Shift Speed vs TPS
this would make more sense for a bigger stall
assuming 6000 rpm shift, 245/55/16 tires, and a 3.23 gear
Parth throttle Shift Speed vs TPS
Code:
1 -> 2 Shift 16.0 16.3 18.5 23.2 28.7 32.8 35.5 37.7 39.7 41.6 43.4 45.0 46.3 47.0 47.8 48.0 48.0 2 -> 3 Shift 30.0 30.5 34.6 43.5 53.8 61.4 66.5 70.6 74.4 77.9 81.3 84.3 86.7 88.0 89.5 89.9 89.9 3 -> 4 Shift 49.0 49.8 56.5 71.0 87.9 100.3 108.6 115.3 121.5 127.2 132.8 137.7 141.6 143.7 146.2 146.8 146.8 2 -> 1 Shift 11.6 11.8 13.4 16.8 20.8 23.8 25.7 27.3 28.8 30.2 31.4 32.6 33.6 34.1 34.7 34.8 34.8 3 -> 2 Shift 16.0 16.3 18.5 23.2 28.7 32.8 35.5 37.7 39.7 41.6 43.4 45.0 46.3 47.0 47.8 48.0 48.0 4 -> 3 Shift 30.0 30.5 34.6 43.5 53.8 61.4 66.5 70.6 74.4 77.9 81.3 84.3 86.7 88.0 89.5 89.9 89.9
04-22-2011, 10:42 AM
#25
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You are obviously over his head dude. Just give up.
On a side note, old blue sounds like he comes from an old "3 fiddy" kind of thinking world. With those set-ups you didnt need much stall at all. What a lot don't realize is that the torque peak is way up on an LS motor as compared to the old boat anchors. Stall should correspond with powerband. And thats a fact.
On a side note, old blue sounds like he comes from an old "3 fiddy" kind of thinking world. With those set-ups you didnt need much stall at all. What a lot don't realize is that the torque peak is way up on an LS motor as compared to the old boat anchors. Stall should correspond with powerband. And thats a fact.
04-22-2011, 11:33 AM
#27
stall is the best mod for a a4... bone stock cars net .4-.6 tenth gains at the track all the time with sticky tires. I have yet to install my fti 3800, but greag @ fti told me it would only take 2000rpm to keep up in traffic. Thats all the rpm I use now except I always take of in 2nd from a light with the stock tc and 3.73 gears... so basically with the 3800 I would be using first gear from a stop and only turning 2000rpm to keep up with traffic. Now if your planning on sticking with 2.73 gears, your lookin at spinning the motor another couple hundred rpm to get the car moving. hope this makes sense lol...
04-22-2011, 01:41 PM
#28
Stalls are a waste of money..J/K..I guess you need to figure out how big a cam you are getting. I think most people get a converter & wish they went with a higher stall(me). I bought a Vigilante 3800(wasn't much different than my old ST3500 Yank) I wanted to go faster, So I upgraded to the Yank SS4000(Best all around converter if you ask me, Night & day difference between the Vig 3800 & SS4000, Hits hard as hell though, so you better have suspension work)..I was having traction problems with the SS4000 Yank at the track, I bracket race so this wasn't good. Currently I have a Vigilante 3500, cuts consistent 1.7 60' with no wheel spin. I have 335 rwhp if that means anything to you. If you drive mostly city I wouldn't recommend the SS4000, I would do a Vig 3800(It has a lower STR than the yank, Doesn't hit as hard off the line) It's all up to you on driveability. I honestly liked my Yank SS4000 on the street & track, I still have it in case I want to run it again. SS 3600 Yank could be for you too. You can read this
http://www.converter.cc/tech_talk/
http://www.converter.cc/converter_selector/
http://www.converter.cc/tech_talk/
http://www.converter.cc/converter_selector/
06-05-2011, 11:55 PM
#29
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PFWHAT?!?! A stall is a waste of money without a cam?! WHAT?! OP dont listen to that nonsense because thats just what it is...nonsense. Get your stall. And fwiw it looks like I get better mpg on highay but less city with the ss3600. But even with less mpg with city driving it isnt that bad one bit.
06-06-2011, 12:04 AM
#30
agree...
figure if you can keep your car in the peak power and torque all the time you will go faster....
and that is exactly what a stall is designed to do...
a 3000 stall will keep you at or above 3000 rpm when you mash your foot..
a 5000 stall will keep you at or above 5000 rom when you mash your foot...
example.. my stall...(and I'm not stock... but this is an example of what a stall can do)
4800-5000 ish
my peak HP/TQ occurs around 6400/5400
My trans and stall make it so that I basically shift out at 6800 and my rpm drops to only 5800 on the worst drop...
keeps me centered right on my peak power
with my M6 and Monster stage 5 clutch I was only able to muster 11.9
I went 11.2 my first time out with my new TCI 6x and big stall.
now I just need some sticky tires to get into the mid to low 10's
figure if you can keep your car in the peak power and torque all the time you will go faster....
and that is exactly what a stall is designed to do...
a 3000 stall will keep you at or above 3000 rpm when you mash your foot..
a 5000 stall will keep you at or above 5000 rom when you mash your foot...
example.. my stall...(and I'm not stock... but this is an example of what a stall can do)
4800-5000 ish
my peak HP/TQ occurs around 6400/5400
My trans and stall make it so that I basically shift out at 6800 and my rpm drops to only 5800 on the worst drop...
keeps me centered right on my peak power
with my M6 and Monster stage 5 clutch I was only able to muster 11.9
I went 11.2 my first time out with my new TCI 6x and big stall.
now I just need some sticky tires to get into the mid to low 10's
06-06-2011, 06:12 AM
#31
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Picked up 7 tenths with a converter and under drive pulley. With sticky tires and some spray 1.60 60ft times. 1.75 was the best before the stall. Plan your build out. Stall now cam later. Just know what cam before you buy the stall. Just don't do it the other way. You won't be happy with the cam.
06-23-2011, 06:53 PM
#33
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A stall is the best mod to do to a LS1 hands down. I'am about to do a 3500- 4000 stall and 373s to get rid of my 273s. Its kinda hard to pick between Vig,Yank,FTI.. Some people are telling me if I go 3500 I will regret it said I should of went 4000.
06-23-2011, 08:08 PM
#36
We all mod our cars for the "fun" factor we get when we drive them right? Whats not fun about nailing the pedal from a stop and having the motor hit 3600 rpm before giving the power to the rear tires thus giving the car substantially more power to launch off the line with. Also a stall will get rid of all "dead" spots with the auto punching the gas at any speed will result in the motor going right into its powerband and staying there even when it shifts the rpms drop very little instead of the stock stall which pretty much bogs the engine down....All of this results in typically a .5 drop in et's at the track... Ya totally a waste of time and not fun lol.
06-23-2011, 09:27 PM
#40
3600 My ***....
go as big as you think you can handle, and then get that size.... it will be slightly higher anyways. especially on the bottle.
Look at my signature....realize I'm about to do a lot more Juice than most people have on motor alone... and I'm already starting with a stall that hits around 5K.
and I DAILY DRIVE my car....with my big stall....
proper trans tuning will make it roll nicely thru town without needed a lot of extra RPM.
Just dont go open headers with a big stall for in town driving..LOL.... it will be really loud all the time like that.
as far as 3600 vs 4000
typically a 4k stall will be better ET in the 1/4 Mile
60' you probably wont notice a difference between the 2
personally I would get a Yank PY3600, and have dave build it as a 4000 stall...he built mine as a 4800
go as big as you think you can handle, and then get that size.... it will be slightly higher anyways. especially on the bottle.
Look at my signature....realize I'm about to do a lot more Juice than most people have on motor alone... and I'm already starting with a stall that hits around 5K.
and I DAILY DRIVE my car....with my big stall....
proper trans tuning will make it roll nicely thru town without needed a lot of extra RPM.
Just dont go open headers with a big stall for in town driving..LOL.... it will be really loud all the time like that.
as far as 3600 vs 4000
typically a 4k stall will be better ET in the 1/4 Mile
60' you probably wont notice a difference between the 2
personally I would get a Yank PY3600, and have dave build it as a 4000 stall...he built mine as a 4800