Trouble with pulling trans
Trouble with pulling trans I'm trying to pull the trans for a torque converter swap. I've got everything pulled from the transmission except for the cooler lines. I've lowered the trans as far as it will go and I've got very little room, maybe because of the poly motor mounts keeping it on place. Any tips to get to those lines? I haven't touched any belhousing bolts yet, can I remove a few to get it to lower a little more?
The two things that I thought I could skip when trying to lower mine was the exhaust and bump stop I had on my y-pipe. I am kind of glad I don't have poly mounts yet. I figured those would make it hard to get it tilt back. I read somewhere that some guys remove the trans lines from the front of the car.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Doing this job with poly mounts sucks a big one. You should be able to get to the cooler lines using your fingertips. First time I dropped the trans I unscrewed the fittings from the trans case. Took a while but a wrench has good reach.
I'll probably have to do that. It looks like I have less than the half room of all the install threads I've looked at. I'm hoping I don't have to loosen the motor mounts. I'm kind of wanting to grab the trans and pull it down by hand, but that seems like it's asking for trouble. Anyone else had this problem?
Here's a picture from the very top of the tailshaft, I can't even see the top bolts.
Here's a picture from the very top of the tailshaft, I can't even see the top bolts.
Last edited by Golf&GM; Sep 24, 2011 at 06:32 PM.
You could remove all the bellhousing bolts. Lower the trans slightly then get at the cooler lines. I think thats how i did mine once or twice. I know i always connected the lines first before i bolted it back in place as well. The lines do have some wiggle room. I remember it being damn near impossible to get at them without it being un bolted from the engine.
I have the lines that screw in(LT1), not the c-clips like Ls1's have so it might be different from my experience
I have the lines that screw in(LT1), not the c-clips like Ls1's have so it might be different from my experience
I don't really see how you could get the cooler lines by hand, I might be missing something. It looks like I can get at them with a wrench but it's real tight, probably get about a quarter turn at a time. The above pictures are with all but the top two belhousing bolts out.
Badass 97 TA, that's a good idea I'll definitely install the cooler lines before bolting the trans up. It looks like now my biggest problem is getting to the last two belhousing bolts.
Badass 97 TA, that's a good idea I'll definitely install the cooler lines before bolting the trans up. It looks like now my biggest problem is getting to the last two belhousing bolts.
Last edited by Golf&GM; Sep 24, 2011 at 06:41 PM.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Dude I have done this a bunch of times. You WILL NOT get your bellhousing bolts by looking at your clearance picture. You need to get the trans and body separated more. Last time I got so pissed (with solid mounts) I just dropped the k member like 6-8 inches. Or rather, lifted the body with the k member on jackstands.
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i never worked on a LS1 car so i never ran into that problem. I didnt have much more clearance then that either. But i know i could see the bolts. Ive heard of people removing there intake to get access to the top bolts. I also remember reading that they never installed that very top bolt ever again. just some thoughts....
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used an adjustable post to apply some pressure to harmonic balancer to use up any flex in motor mounts and that tilted trans downward to give adequate clearance between body for using extensions.
That did help me get a little more clearance but not much. I was able to get the top driver's side belhousing bolt out.
Now I just have two bolts left, this one up on the driver's side corner. It's so close to the tunnel I can't get a socket on it.
And the very top one that I can barely see.
It's looking like my best option now is to take out the horizontal bolts that connect the motor mounts to the engine, which is going to be a bitch to line back up. At this point I'm thinking it'd almost be easier to drop the whole damn cradle. Before I do this any have any ideas?
Now I just have two bolts left, this one up on the driver's side corner. It's so close to the tunnel I can't get a socket on it.
And the very top one that I can barely see.
It's looking like my best option now is to take out the horizontal bolts that connect the motor mounts to the engine, which is going to be a bitch to line back up. At this point I'm thinking it'd almost be easier to drop the whole damn cradle. Before I do this any have any ideas?
The one bolt in the 10 o'clock position is about the hardest bolt I've ever had to get out ever. you have to have a 13mm swivel socket if you don't already.
I had poly mounts and didn't have near as much of a clearance issue as you guys are having, it could possibly have been that my mounts had been on for almost 3 years before i did my trans swap, but I'm not sure if they wear over time or not. my cooler lines i remember popped right out, also could have been influenced by the knowledge that i would no longer need them so i was less timid removing them.
I will agree that i would be worried pushing up the crank pulley to force the trans down....
I had poly mounts and didn't have near as much of a clearance issue as you guys are having, it could possibly have been that my mounts had been on for almost 3 years before i did my trans swap, but I'm not sure if they wear over time or not. my cooler lines i remember popped right out, also could have been influenced by the knowledge that i would no longer need them so i was less timid removing them.
I will agree that i would be worried pushing up the crank pulley to force the trans down....
Didn't put the pressure on the pulley. What I did was loosen the front two bolts on the engine pedistals. Then right underneath the crank pulley is a flat spot on the block. I put a piece of wood on that and used a small jack to gently lift the front of the engine a little bit. It worked and the pedistals and engine tilted a little bit to give me some clearance, but not enough.
I've pulled the alt, AC compressor, the through motor mount bolts, loosened the pedistal bolts, and jacked the front of the engine up a little bit and there's no way to get the top bolt. And even if I were to get it, it would be a absolute nightmare to try to put it back in after I change convertors.
There's no way around it I'm going to have to lift the body up off the k-member at least a few inches. I saw there were about six bolts on the underside of the k-member along with the swaybar and shocks. If I undo all these can I jack the body up off the engine and trans? Is there anything electrical or any lines I need to disconnect or watchout for if I'm only droping it a few inches?
I've pulled the alt, AC compressor, the through motor mount bolts, loosened the pedistal bolts, and jacked the front of the engine up a little bit and there's no way to get the top bolt. And even if I were to get it, it would be a absolute nightmare to try to put it back in after I change convertors.
There's no way around it I'm going to have to lift the body up off the k-member at least a few inches. I saw there were about six bolts on the underside of the k-member along with the swaybar and shocks. If I undo all these can I jack the body up off the engine and trans? Is there anything electrical or any lines I need to disconnect or watchout for if I'm only droping it a few inches?
I have poly motor mounts and never had any issuse getting to the cooler lines or bellhousing bolts and the mounts are maybe a year old. I used a swivel socket and lots of extensions to get to all the bolts and a flat tip to pop the clips out for the cooler lines. Hardest bolt were very top and 10 o'clock one i used a wrench mostly. Wasnt much room but was still able to get the job done.
From my pics did you have about the same amount of room I have? Cooler lines aren't a problem now, and the 10 o'clock bolt I might be able to get as it sits now. It's just that top one. I struggled with a swivel socket and extensions for about half an hour last night and couldn't put the socket on it. And if it's that hard to take it out, it's going to be exponentionally harder to put it back in.
If I remember right, yes I had about the same amount of room. I went from basically where you took the picture to get the top bolt with all my extensions and swivel socket. Oh and getting the bolt back it, good luck! Took me about 10 attempts just to get the bolt back in the hole and I almost cross threaded it. Be very patience when putting it back in.
Before I do anything to my car I research it on here to see what I'm getting myself into. I came across an install thread on here and saw this post https://ls1tech.com/forums/14649261-post51.html I thought to myself, psssh no problem. I COMPLETELY overlooked the whole poly motor mount thing. At this point it'd so be worth paying someone $300 to install this thing 
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Undo your steering shaft, then undo your 6 k member bolts, then lower or lift slowly, however you have it setup. ****** your bolts out, and set her back down (for safety reasons).