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Fresh rebuilt 4l60e soft delayed all shifts??

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Old 11-06-2011, 04:11 PM
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*Another update*
Im trying my hardest to finish up both me and my wifes chevelles so we will have another car going, but for now the ol blazer is my only drivable ride.

I went ahead and put the rebuilt valvebody in the truck today just to see if there was an improvement and now both 3rd and 4th are working great under half gas (im just not willing to over half throttle at this point)
But
It will take off in 3rd gear unless i drop it down to 1st only will it take off in 2nd. It wont go down to 1st?!? I dont get it.. Besides this first issue its driving great besides the tcc trying to slip in initial engagement. What can cause a no 1st ,taking off in 3rd and not showing a ses light?

All the checkballs in the reman unit were in place with transgel and trans has been heated up thoroughly. I just dont understand these this issue that have only started since i put in the reman vb. Is there different year pwm vb that may affect something like this by anychance?
Please bear with me , ive got to make this sucker last atleast another week or two before i can get another project back on the road.

Please let me know what may have gone wrong here?
Thanks in advance
Mako

Last edited by lt170chevelle; 11-07-2011 at 05:12 AM.
Old 04-01-2012, 10:24 PM
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Hi guys got a 98 trans am got some couple question about my tranny i had the tranny rebuilt about 188,000 MILES I try to fix everything that breaks on my car myself but the tranny i never rebuilt one and took it to my step dad buddy that has a mechanic shop here is the problem i notice with transmission since i got car back i dont really know a whole lot about the parts inside of them i remember the guy saying he stacked the clutch plates he stacked them with ten of them and he tried to keep most stock as possible this is the problem with the tranny when im driving about 40mph barely on the gas pedal i notice a shift then as i get close to 45mph its shifts again but when it shifts if feels like the shifts are back to back and most of the time when it does shift when i am driveing 40mph i notice for the car to shift i gotta either push the gas pedal for it to shift or wait til the tranny ready but its feels like it rubbin up and then shift it never shifted like this before until this guy rebuilt it for me now the thing is with the guy that rebuilt my tranny i dont trust him he is a crook wish i would known this before he rebuilt my tranny so what you guys think is the problem or best way to fix it thank u garrett
Old 12-16-2019, 12:31 AM
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Default Brand new 4l60e trans slipping!!!!

Originally Posted by performabuilt
Well the first thing is to see if your getting presure rise with throttle or any at all so a guage would be the next step . Measure the presure with the harness unpluged you should get at least 170 PSI if so the pumps doing its thing ideally you want about 220 to 230 psi however so if you have at least the 170 i would consider using the torx screw to get to the 220 range. All this being good the next thing is to check for line rise as comanded which you can do with the tune in fact I would do that before i did the max line presure test. If you dont get any rise or little the PCS could be at fault and I would replace it. Even with a bad pump you should see some line rise when testing.
Hello!,I just completely rebuilt my 02 4l60e for my 02 gmc sierra.i have a stage 2 cam setup around 400 hp.i have built my trans with all new updated,upgraded seals pistons ,transgo code buster kit,bonded pistons,alto red eagles and kolene steels throughout.bushings,pump rebuild,all electronics,sunshell,and band,all clearances perfect.just installed and everything went smooth.so smooth,I pulled everything out and stacked it all outside the trans,then,did it all again and everything seemes perfect.first drive all gears shift.i come to a dead stop after a few minutes of normal driving.check the fluid and it might be a quarter quart high,check for leaks and go to take off and I feel it slip like it's not grabbing until it revs a few hundred rpms.kinda sketched me out so I figure it just needs to be broke in.but after 1st gear takeoff,,like once it builds rpms it sticks tight and feels good.so I got down on it after I got rolling and let it kick itself back to first.shifts feel super soft and I was closer to the firm shift with the transgo kit and did every step like they said.boost valve moved perfect.from 2 to 3 about 80 mph it finally shifted to third and I could feel it slipping bad,like if I would have redlined it.so I let out as soon as I felt it.thinking it needed to be broke in ,I let it shift thru the gears driving normal.hit it again and same thing on takeoff.put it in reverse and it does the same thing.like I gotta rev it to almost 1500 rpms to start legit pulling.i have spent over 1400 dollars on parts alone and have shopped wisely,comparing prices and whatnot.i have done this exact build a few years ago and it was fine.other than a bad new solenoid.i have a 2200 stall converter.i haven't had the truck dyno tuned but after the motor upgrade,I put over 10,000 miles on it b4 it stopped pulling when it was hot.i could drive it easy until itd heat up and not pull at all.so I know it' shouldn't be a tuning issue,although I know it'll help with the lockup.as long as I kept it over Abt 75 the converter stayed locked.i had a guy (ripmeoff) TUNE it after the build but he just made it idle right.he spent about 5 minutes tuning it on his laptop and we test drove it and it didn't make much diff. Beings I just dropped over 3500 on parts for my motor,doing all the meticulous work myself,the entire engines good for a 600 hp daily,so I figd the trans was on the way out the door,which is why I didn't strap it to a Dyno and really pull some power out of it.i live in the middle of nowhere and really depend on sites like this for tech help.can someone give me somewhere to start.all I've got is a set of ramps and a gravel drive.im ready to get it done right!!
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Old 12-16-2019, 02:58 AM
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Have you tested line pressure yet?
Old 12-16-2019, 08:50 AM
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I'm confused. It has 400hp or 600hp. And you installed a transgo code buster kit for a 400 to 600 hp build? And everything was perfect? Apparently not.
Start a new thread, slow down. List important details.

This way you won't get a generic reply.
Old 12-16-2019, 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Jays_SSZ28
I'm confused. It has 400hp or 600hp. And you installed a transgo code buster kit for a 400 to 600 hp build? And everything was perfect? Apparently not.
Start a new thread, slow down. List important details.

This way you won't get a generic reply.
​​​​​​It should be pushing about 400 after it's Dyno tuned.the valvetrain and bottom end should be good for at least 600.i was told the kit would correct a few known,easy to fix, problems with the 4l60e.it came with a shift kit.and I did everything it told me to do to the t!sorry about the long thread.was hoping to get some pro tech advice and was trying to get some attention.and Mr jays_ssz28,,I'm not sure how to start a new thread or send it to a certain person.im new to ls1tech.
Old 12-16-2019, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike palmer
​​​​​​sorry about the long thread.was hoping to get some pro tech advice and was trying to get some attention.,I'm not sure how to start a new thread or send it to a certain person.im new to ls1tech.
There is a red button that says "post new thread"

After that, describe your problem using at least sentences and paragraphs.

I've seen people complain numerous times about one very long sentence and that they couldn't stand to read it all.

Also, this site has a new feature where the thread start date is visible under the thread title. People here don't seem to like it when someone asks a new question from a thread thats 9 years old.

And most of all keep it short and to the point at first. People will ask questions if more information is needed.
Hope this helps.



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