Torque converte issue resolved, Torque converter making a ticking noise after install
10-20-2011, 08:45 PM
#1
Torque converte issue resolved, Torque converter making a ticking noise after install I wanted to make a post because there wasnt much information about it when I was trying to resolve my issue. If this is a re-post, feel free to remove it.
My word is not gospel, and im not responsible for the use of this information. I merely wanted to give people an idea of what to look for if they are in a similar situation. Use any of the following at your own peril.
I installed a torque converter for a friend, a Yank 3200 for an fbody. It was already in the car, he just had it reflashed... Since i didnt pull it I didnt know much about it and I made some false assumptions that could have been a very expensive mistake. Thank God, I got lucky... because as soon as i realised something was wrong it went back into the garage.
Anyways,
False assumption #1. It was in THIS EXACT car before, the space between the TC and Flexplate doesnt need to be measured again.
False assumption #2. It didnt come with bolts, the stock ones should be fine.
Everything looked good when installed, TC was seated correctly, everything went smooth. Then I took the car for a test drive, on most occasions when i got above 1/2 throttle (but always under WOT) it would make a ticking sound. Almost sounded like an exhaust rattle when 2 things barely touch.
Did some research, found little info. Options were:
1. Broken Flexplate (i knew this wasnt the case)
2. Incorrectly balanced TC (doubted that highly)
3. Incorrect TC to Flexplate spacing
As you probably know from my assumptions, in my case, it was the last one. I called Yank and they were SUPER helpful. If you have any questions, call them!
Bolt size needed: (must be atleast grade 8, 10.8 is preferred. Use a hardened steel spacer if needed.)
10mm x 1.5 thread x 12mm long (If you have 3/32 or LESS gap)
10mm x 1.5 thread x 16mm long (If you need to run a 1/8"+ spacer)
New bolts, with spacers and the car is good to go! Looking back it was a dumb mistake... but thats how we learn. I was trying to have it done so he could get to the track the next day. Luckily we are both smart enough to blow off the track and make sure it was right.
Now you know better... Take the extra little bit of time (took maybe 30 min) and check it. Easy way to check the gap is using drill bits, they are already measured, small, and should already be in your garage!
Just stick it between the TC and flexplate.
Best of luck,
Mack
My word is not gospel, and im not responsible for the use of this information. I merely wanted to give people an idea of what to look for if they are in a similar situation. Use any of the following at your own peril.
I installed a torque converter for a friend, a Yank 3200 for an fbody. It was already in the car, he just had it reflashed... Since i didnt pull it I didnt know much about it and I made some false assumptions that could have been a very expensive mistake. Thank God, I got lucky... because as soon as i realised something was wrong it went back into the garage.
Anyways,
False assumption #1. It was in THIS EXACT car before, the space between the TC and Flexplate doesnt need to be measured again.
False assumption #2. It didnt come with bolts, the stock ones should be fine.
Everything looked good when installed, TC was seated correctly, everything went smooth. Then I took the car for a test drive, on most occasions when i got above 1/2 throttle (but always under WOT) it would make a ticking sound. Almost sounded like an exhaust rattle when 2 things barely touch.
Did some research, found little info. Options were:
1. Broken Flexplate (i knew this wasnt the case)
2. Incorrectly balanced TC (doubted that highly)
3. Incorrect TC to Flexplate spacing
As you probably know from my assumptions, in my case, it was the last one. I called Yank and they were SUPER helpful. If you have any questions, call them!
Bolt size needed: (must be atleast grade 8, 10.8 is preferred. Use a hardened steel spacer if needed.)
10mm x 1.5 thread x 12mm long (If you have 3/32 or LESS gap)
10mm x 1.5 thread x 16mm long (If you need to run a 1/8"+ spacer)
New bolts, with spacers and the car is good to go! Looking back it was a dumb mistake... but thats how we learn. I was trying to have it done so he could get to the track the next day. Luckily we are both smart enough to blow off the track and make sure it was right.
Now you know better... Take the extra little bit of time (took maybe 30 min) and check it. Easy way to check the gap is using drill bits, they are already measured, small, and should already be in your garage!
Just stick it between the TC and flexplate.Best of luck,
Mack
