Are you using the same or new/updated sun shell, reaction carrier shaft and planet?
If you are still stuck, remove all the loose parts down to the sun gear, place them in order on the table, some a clear picture(s) and post them.

FYI - In a post long ago (and on a planet far away) the OP had updated to a new reaction carrier shaft which has a torrington bearing under it and didn't remove the 4-tab thrust washer on top of the sun shell. New reaction carriers use the torrington bearing, old ones use the thrust washer; you never use both.

 

I having an issue with my trans at WOT. It bounces off the Rev limiter in every gear. It shifts into the gears at 1/2 3/4 throttle. When I launch it, it just hits the rev and goes no where. Anyone ever have an issue like this or know if with these mods the trans should be manually shifted. Any info would help. Fluid is new and is 1/2 at over hot temp. Filter is on and we have good vac for the Transgo kit. This is what's in the trans

* Parallel deck pump body and cover which eliminates hydraulic cross leaks
* Adjust pump rotor and slide clearance to .0015-.002 thousandths in a hand polished pocket.
* High rev pump slide spring
* Reinforced / staked pump bushing
* Port “ported slots” for increased hydraulic flow
* Heavy duty, hi rev. vane rings added for maximum pump output
* No stick, steel, oversize billet boost valve.
* Heavier boost valve spring/ shim added for maximum working line pressure
* Hardened, ported stator shaft with oversize bushings added. Stabilizes input shaft.
* Raybestos Hi-energy 2-4 band or Red Eagle Alto Band
* 7 Borg / Warner .065 hi energy frictions 3-4 clutch (4L65E)
* 29 element forward sprag borg warner
* 4L65E low roller clutch B/W
* H.D. Beast sun shell
* Rock drive hardened, balanced, sleeved input shaft & drum, with oversize coast clutch piston
* Borg Warner clutches thought
* New bushings, using wider where necessary for stability and balance, decreasing cross leaks/increasing durability
* New solenoids, altered stock gm
* Tested, soldered wiring harness
* Transgo HD-2 performance shift kit with 3 washers
* Transgo vacuum mod kit
* Corvette servo
* All accumulator pistons replaced and upgraded with aluminum pistons
* Correct end play for performance
* Enhanced PWM system to eliminate lock-up drag
* Increase Lube capacity
* Hardened galvanized control plate to handle the increased pressure requirements of a performance build.

 

Confirm that it has the Transgo Vacuum mod kit?
If yes, why? That kit is really only for computer-less operation.
If yest, that controls the shifting and it is not adjusted right.

 

It 100% has the Transgo vac mod kit in it. I saw it when I pulled the pan down. I bought this motor/trans as a package for very cheap, the Trans was built by Rock-on that is no longer around. Read a bunch of good and bad things about them.
The guy that built my other trans said to take it out and put the pressure control solenoid back in. Just figured I would see if I could get away with going with what I have.

 

I would strongly suggest changing the valve body back to OEM setup with just the HD2 shift kit. The computer will then control the shift and line pressure according to much more than just vacuum.
When you remove the 1-2 accumulator housing, remove the parts, make sure the springs are not broken and only run with one spacer, not three. If you like super hard shifts, then maybe 2 but not 3. Excessively hard shifts can break internal parts, u-joints, etc. Longtime trans guru Dana (PBA) suggests no washers normally and at most one.

 

I know this is a dead thread.. but I'm installing a yank ss4000 in my 98 camaro.. with 60k miles would you recommend just adding sonnax boost valve an throw it back in the car an beat on it or should I install hd2 inztead?? I go to the track about twice a year other than that it's a weekend warrior