Hey!

I'm looking to drop the pan and change the fluid this week sometime.
I ordered a filter change kit from RockAuto.
It comes with a filter, gasket, and I think a new drain plug.

Anyways, is there anything more to dropping the pan then just.
Draining the fluid, dropping the pan (duh), cleaning the pan/new filter/gasket?

I had a friend saying that only certified techs should be doing that but I thought it wouldn't be that.. hard?

Input appreciated

 

Mine doesnt have a drain. I havent done it yet, but I have to do it soon. I would like to add a question.

How do you get all the fluid out of the trans?

 

I did it when I put in my stall. It's not too hard, pull the old filter out and put the new one back in the same spot. Only tough part is getting the damned filter colar seal out of the trans. My original seal was in very good shape so I left it in and discarded the new one.

At Pseudonym, I didn't have a drain either. I loosened all the bolts just a smidge and let some of the fluid drain. I then put a trans jack under pan and raised it so it was barely touching, don't want much pressure on it at all. I then took all the bolts out of the pan and slowly lowered the trans jack. Much easier, and cleaner, than trying to do it all by hand.

 

Hmm, maybe they don't have a drain plug. It just looked like it was a drain plug in the pic of the filter kit.

It might be the filter collar seal... - Thats exactly how I was planning to do it @Golf&GM, just using my jack to hold it up and lower it very slowly hoping not to spill haha.

@Pseudonym - I'm not sure on that, I remember seeing a previous thread where someone asked that. I just know that if you have a high mileage transmission its best to drop the pan.

 

If your old filter collar seal holds the new filter snuggly, I wouldn't replace the seal as removal and installation is not always trivial. We had a recent thread where someone had a nightmare getting the new one to fit tightly into the pump. It only needs to be snug enough around the filter not to have a major leak; the oil pan will hold it in place. If you are determined to replace it, you will need the proper size socket and extension and hammer it into place very carefully.

I'm not a trans expert, so if an expert says to always replace the seal, follow their advice.

Some trans shops have a rig for completely replacing the fluid. Basically it hooks up to the cooling lines. Then while you are running the engine, it captures the fluid coming out and replaces it with new fluid going to the trans. While there is still some new/old mixing taking place, after 12+ quarts you are pretty much all new.

Perhaps there are other tricks for draining most of the fluid.

 

When you crack the pan gasket, ATF will flood out all over you and your floor...

you could get this hand pump from AutoZone for less than $10

you need a 5 ft length of fuel hose that fits snug (so it doesn't suck air) inside the end of the orange tube that goes on the IN end of the pump, you then slide the fuel hose down the dipstick/fill tube, and then you pump out as much ATF as you can; if you do this first, then removing the pan will be easier and avoids a mess.

 

When you have the pan off, check all the pan bolt holes to see if they're flush with the the rib in the pan's gasket rail... if they're standing up above the rib, then you have to make them flush to the rib by carefully hitting the holes with a hammer while supporting the underside of the pan gasket rail (do not flatten the rib); doing this helps to avoid potential leaks.


Edit: do this only for stamped steel pans.

 

When I did mine last year I losened the back more than the front and slowly drained it out angled. Other than the obscure ways to get the fluid drained without a full on mess it is quite easy to do the filter and fluid change. I put Redline racing fluid in mine and it improved the shifting slightly. At 140,000 miles the inside still looked shiny new. No sludge or metal.....be sure to check the magnet in the bottom of the pan for metal by the way. Best of luck, you can do it, no problem. There are pans avaliable that have the drains for ls cars. Even deep pans.

 

Yes, pumping out the trans fluid through the dipstick is the way to go. The pump is only $8 at HarborFreight and a few dollars more at many auto parts stores.
I have several for different fluids.

Since most trans pans don't have a drain plug, I have installed aftermarket ones like this when I first take the pan off:
http://www.amazon.com/Mr-Gasket-4470.../dp/B000CMD5MQ

While probably overkill for you basic oil change, cast aluminum pans come with a drain plug and are less likely to leak:
http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-700R4-4L...2814166&sr=1-1

Or:
http://www.amazon.com/Chevy-700R4-4L...2814166&sr=1-1

I have read to avoid the chrome ones as they leak when the chrome starts to corrode.

 

Haha I'll definitely give this a try first since its my parent's garage floor...
And lets just say my 87 Cutlass has already dropped enough fluid on their floor haha