4l60e wont do anything
4l60e wont do anything just did h/c/i/ on a 98 pontiac trans am with a yank ss 3600 conveter. the transmission worked fine before we remove the motor and trans to do the h/c/i/. now we have it back together and it wont do anything park works but reverse, neutral, over drive, 3, 2, and 1 dont do anything. the converter was spun on the transmission and it "clicked" twice. the cooler lines are hooked up, the two connectors are plugged in, there are no codes for anything, the dipstick reads full, we used dexrton 3. im at a loss of what it could be im dont know that much about automatics. i know that the trans what rebuild and gone through before the car was bought and there was no shifting issue or anything like that before everything was removed. if anyone has anything that i can check or do let me know, thanks Ty.
just did h/c/i/ on a 98 pontiac trans am with a yank ss 3600 conveter. the transmission worked fine before we remove the motor and trans to do the h/c/i/. now we have it back together and it wont do anything park works but reverse, neutral, over drive, 3, 2, and 1 dont do anything. the converter was spun on the transmission and it "clicked" twice. the cooler lines are hooked up, the two connectors are plugged in, there are no codes for anything, the dipstick reads full, we used dexrton 3. im at a loss of what it could be im dont know that much about automatics. i know that the trans what rebuild and gone through before the car was bought and there was no shifting issue or anything like that before everything was removed. if anyone has anything that i can check or do let me know, thanks Ty.
Assuming you did that, even though you think you seated the converter all the way in, most likely you did not. Unfortunately if that is the case you likely damaged the front pump.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
The most likely problem is indeed that you didn't install the torque converter all the way and it didn't engage the oil pump. As lt1pwr1 states, it is then likely that you damaged the oil pump.
Here is how to check that and a 2nd possibility:
1. Remove the starter motor for access to the flexplate and torque converter bolts.
2. Significantly loosen the converter bolts. (Maybe even remove them.)
3. By pushing and pulling in/out hard on the converter, check how much play there is between the converter and the flexplate. There should be between 1/16 and 3/16" play at the mounting tabs.
A - If there is no play, then the converter was not seated all the way and pump damage is likely.
B - If there is more than 3/16" play, then the converter was pulled out of the pump. In this case there is no damage. Install 1/8" of washers between the flexplate and torque converter, tighten things up and you should be good to go. (I select the washers by thickness/weight to keep things balanced.)
C - If you have proper play, I have no idea what the problem is.
Good luck and keep us posted.
Here is how to check that and a 2nd possibility:
1. Remove the starter motor for access to the flexplate and torque converter bolts.
2. Significantly loosen the converter bolts. (Maybe even remove them.)
3. By pushing and pulling in/out hard on the converter, check how much play there is between the converter and the flexplate. There should be between 1/16 and 3/16" play at the mounting tabs.
A - If there is no play, then the converter was not seated all the way and pump damage is likely.
B - If there is more than 3/16" play, then the converter was pulled out of the pump. In this case there is no damage. Install 1/8" of washers between the flexplate and torque converter, tighten things up and you should be good to go. (I select the washers by thickness/weight to keep things balanced.)
C - If you have proper play, I have no idea what the problem is.
Good luck and keep us posted.
if i remember right when i bolted the transmission up there was no play so its deffinatly sounding like the converter was not on all the way and the pump is destroyed. is that something easy to fix?
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
However, this will generally require removing the trans and pulling off the pump for repair. Rebuilding the pump does not require special tools, although an impact wrench (air or 1/2" electric) makes it much easier.
All of the teflon rings need to be inspected then. From here it is a slippery slope to performing an a partial or complete rebuild.
My 98 camaro is doing The Same exact thing. I have a TCI Streetfighter, When i put the converter in I got 2 clicks and i swore your suppose to hear 3 but after playing with it for a while and putting my hand behind the converter the shaft was all the way in So i know it has to be working, I also took my lines of the cooler to see if the pumps working and It pumps Out fluid Like its suppose to. My car wont move either I have to Rev it really high just to get it to Barely roll forward or Reverse almost like when you Footbrake a car and it rolls forward a little thats all it does.
I cant figure out the Problem
I cant figure out the Problem
pull a tranny cooler hose loose and stick it in a bucket/drain pan....start the car and allow to idle and you should get fluid flow right away....if not..its really low on fluid, the filter fell off...or the front pump is damaged
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Joined: Oct 2009
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From: Cumming GA
Yes that's what it sounds like damaged front pump if you need any assistance just give me a call.
Thanks Maddog Lou, MAD DOG TRANSMISSIONS
Phone 770-781-0949
Fax 770-781-0969
Web: www.maddogtransmissions.com
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Thanks Maddog Lou, MAD DOG TRANSMISSIONS
Phone 770-781-0949
Fax 770-781-0969
Web: www.maddogtransmissions.com
Facebook:www.facebook.com/maddogtransmissions
Twitter:www.twitter.com/maddoglou
YouTube:www.youtube.com/maddogtransmissions
Last edited by maddoglou454; May 4, 2012 at 01:17 PM.
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i was having a similar problem when i was putting my yank on my trans...couldnt get that 3rd click and was only 3/4" depth from bellhousing to converter pads. i ended up calling dave at yank and he said to keep pushing and twisting it back and forth. 5 seconds later it went in to the proper 1 1/16-1 1/8 depth. keep pushing it and it should go.
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
My Yank 3600 went on so smoothly it was hard to hear to feel any clicks at all; I therefore checked the gap between the converter pads and the flexplate BEFORE the bellhousing bolts were even finger tight. All was fine. Actually the gap was a bit more than 3/16 to my TCI Flexplate and I therefore placed matched-thickness washers between the pads and flexplate to get the remaining gap down between 1/16 and 2/16. Also, with the thick TCI flexplate I had to use much longer bolts than Yank supplied; and I used red locktite on them.
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Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 333
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From: Westbank of N.O.
This is very common, I would replace the pump with a re-man unit, as the broken parts and loose vanes score up both pump halves when this happens. Less than 200.00 for a 13vane pwm pump with core. Re-use convertor at your own risk....the pump drive hub may be dented and/or scarred, and debris inside. All the units I do are bench jobs (people do their own installs) so I have seen plenty of this in the last 20 years or so.
When u put the convertor in, u must engage 3 things: input spline, stator spline, and pump drive hub. The drive hub is the last to engage. I have seen reputable "performace" shops destroy pumps the same way, and I did it to a ford back in the 80s myself, so don't feel too bad
When u put the convertor in, u must engage 3 things: input spline, stator spline, and pump drive hub. The drive hub is the last to engage. I have seen reputable "performace" shops destroy pumps the same way, and I did it to a ford back in the 80s myself, so don't feel too bad
