How to launch A4 with drag radials
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From: Philly Suburbs
How to launch A4 with drag radials Hey guys. I'm just preparing myself for when we test the Z28 w/ heads and cam out for the first time at the strip. The car has 275/40/`7 Nitto drag radials on the back now. The thing is, if you try to pedal it out of the hole now it short shifts and goes right into 2nd gear. I dont know how good its gonna hook at the track, but on the street it spins them easily with any kind of aggressive launch. The car has a ls1 edit in it now, set to shift around 6500 at WOT. Do you think it would be good to launch in the car in 1st gear, then once hook, put in in OD or D for the reast of the run.Thanks
Adam
Adam
Depends on the setup of the car really, you'll find a good launch RPM through trial and error.
With a stock TC and street tires, I launched at idle (~600RPM).
With a stock TC and 245/50-16 Nitto DRs, I launched at 900-1000RPM.
With a Vig3200 and 245/50-16 Nitto DRs, I launched at 1100-1200RPM.
On Hoosier QTPs this spring I'm gonna wanna launch around 1500-2000 probably.
With a stock TC and street tires, I launched at idle (~600RPM).
With a stock TC and 245/50-16 Nitto DRs, I launched at 900-1000RPM.
With a Vig3200 and 245/50-16 Nitto DRs, I launched at 1100-1200RPM.
On Hoosier QTPs this spring I'm gonna wanna launch around 1500-2000 probably.
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From: Atlanta, GA
13psi
brake-stand burnout
hold 1st till it bounces the rev limiter once
lightly go into "2" DO NOT RAM IT into "D" or go back to start.
keep it around 4500-5000rpm's till the smoke is at your windows
let off the brakes and blast forward (not into a car in front of you)
ENSURE you are lined up, this means back up if necessary to keep it str8
don't be scared if your car goes left, mine moves 2-4 feet left keep on the brakes
then practice your launch. thats the hard part with a verter.
Launch in OD, unless you have some steep gears you'll never shift at wot into 4th, i dont hit OD at 110mph trap, the OD lets you freewheel (not engine brake), inertia of a 3600+ lb car at 110mph goes back into the drive train if your in 3rd gear (4=od).
Works for me.
then i said screw all that, got ET's and you can launch as hard as you want and the biatch hooks after the same burnout procedure.
brake-stand burnout
hold 1st till it bounces the rev limiter once
lightly go into "2" DO NOT RAM IT into "D" or go back to start.
keep it around 4500-5000rpm's till the smoke is at your windows
let off the brakes and blast forward (not into a car in front of you)
ENSURE you are lined up, this means back up if necessary to keep it str8
don't be scared if your car goes left, mine moves 2-4 feet left keep on the brakes
then practice your launch. thats the hard part with a verter.
Launch in OD, unless you have some steep gears you'll never shift at wot into 4th, i dont hit OD at 110mph trap, the OD lets you freewheel (not engine brake), inertia of a 3600+ lb car at 110mph goes back into the drive train if your in 3rd gear (4=od).
Works for me.
then i said screw all that, got ET's and you can launch as hard as you want and the biatch hooks after the same burnout procedure.
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From: Philly Suburbs
Yea, but the thing is, this car has 3.73 gears, most of the torque management taken out of it, 3800 Phoenis stall, Metco contraol ams, bmr panhard rod, Slp torque arm, slp subframe connectors. The car put down 404 horse and 381 torque to the wheels locked. I think we are gonna just need some slicks I'm expecting trap speeds to approack 120
I'm expecting trap speeds to approack 120 Ever tried to step on an egg without breaking it? Same technique 
I think once you get use to it, a larger stall is easier to "pedal" that the stock.. main because of recovery time. The smaller aftermarket converters spin up faster...
I think once you get use to it, a larger stall is easier to "pedal" that the stock.. main because of recovery time. The smaller aftermarket converters spin up faster...
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From: Atlanta, GA
i'd suggest going str8 to slicks man. dont burn up your street DR's.
seriously. thats just based on my 365whp a4 experience. you can play launch on DR's all day long, or f'ing use slicks and have a lot of fun dead hooking easily and reeling in those numbers.
your call really. Both are fun, but going faster is more fun. period.
seriously. thats just based on my 365whp a4 experience. you can play launch on DR's all day long, or f'ing use slicks and have a lot of fun dead hooking easily and reeling in those numbers.
your call really. Both are fun, but going faster is more fun. period.
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 47
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From: de, usa
It takes practice, but it can be done. Did you check your pinion angle? I had the same problem after installing my R.T. torque arm at the same time as my procharger. At first I thought it was just because of the increased power level, but after I set the pinion andle to +2 degrees it would hook and stay in first after a short burnout, launching at 1500 rpm, rolling easily into the gas (but not too easily, or it shifts into 2nd, as you know). Btw I was on BFG drag radials. I didn't get back to the track to see if this improved my 1.9 60 ft times, but my g-tech 0-60 mph times im proved from an average of 3.8 to 3.53 seconds.
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Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Troy, AL
Disconnect front swaybar
Use LCA relocators in the bottom hole
Do one HELLUVA burnout. Good smoke at the top of first, count to 4, release brake and burn all the way to the starting line. Stop just short of the line and stage immediately.
Hot pressure should be about 21 psi. Bleed between passes. Use a high quality gage. You'de be surprised how much brand new el cheapo gages vary.
If it's a high stalling converter, stall it just short of max brake stall (2-3 hundred RPM short. You should feel the rearend stand on it's tippy toes) and let the converter pull you the first few feet. Throttle in aggressively based on traction. It takes practice. With a really good track you should be able to just drop the hammer.
Use LCA relocators in the bottom hole
Do one HELLUVA burnout. Good smoke at the top of first, count to 4, release brake and burn all the way to the starting line. Stop just short of the line and stage immediately.
Hot pressure should be about 21 psi. Bleed between passes. Use a high quality gage. You'de be surprised how much brand new el cheapo gages vary.
If it's a high stalling converter, stall it just short of max brake stall (2-3 hundred RPM short. You should feel the rearend stand on it's tippy toes) and let the converter pull you the first few feet. Throttle in aggressively based on traction. It takes practice. With a really good track you should be able to just drop the hammer.
