those who own a Yank SS4000
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From: Kingwood, Texas
those who own a Yank SS4000 What rpm are you leaving at? I cant figure out which is best. My best 60 is 1.70. Not bad but I want a 1.6XX. I just pulled out my fornt sway bar.. that may help.
Suspension wise I have:
BMR SFC, BMR LCA
ET Streets 26X10.5X16 no screwed tires but should be. I cant get traction with more than 12 psi and I get rim spin with that low of pressure.
I am doing serious burnouts. To the point that I have the track prep guys coughing.
426rwhp 3552 lbs with driver
Help would be great.
Suspension wise I have:
BMR SFC, BMR LCA
ET Streets 26X10.5X16 no screwed tires but should be. I cant get traction with more than 12 psi and I get rim spin with that low of pressure.
I am doing serious burnouts. To the point that I have the track prep guys coughing.
426rwhp 3552 lbs with driver
Help would be great.
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From: Troy, AL
~2900-3000
I guess you already know that you're spinning...so, hitting the converter at the right spot is probably going to make matters worse. It's hard to overcome a poor track but I would suggest first getting a set of LCA relocators and set 'em on the bottom hole...if that doesn't work get a new set of SLICKS (not ETs).
I guess you already know that you're spinning...so, hitting the converter at the right spot is probably going to make matters worse. It's hard to overcome a poor track but I would suggest first getting a set of LCA relocators and set 'em on the bottom hole...if that doesn't work get a new set of SLICKS (not ETs).
i doubt the track is the problem 
most likey he is running at HRP 
Have you done any searches yet?? what are you stalling it up to on the line? I know all about the tire spinning on the rim issue, just have to get then screwed unfortunately. So you still had the front sway bar on at your last track visit? Yeah, if you dont have the suspension and good weight transfer, you will probably just have to go to a true slick. Your car is producing more power than mine and even with the help of suspension i am still running ET Drags, because i want to know for sure i am going to hook. It takes money, thats all there is to it
most likey he is running at HRP Have you done any searches yet?? what are you stalling it up to on the line? I know all about the tire spinning on the rim issue, just have to get then screwed unfortunately. So you still had the front sway bar on at your last track visit? Yeah, if you dont have the suspension and good weight transfer, you will probably just have to go to a true slick. Your car is producing more power than mine and even with the help of suspension i am still running ET Drags, because i want to know for sure i am going to hook. It takes money, thats all there is to it
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From: Kingwood, Texas
I have been leaving at various RPMS. It seems the higher rpms are the best. I guess my 60 gets screwed up even with traction when the tire spins on the rim. It even spun 1/2 a revolution on 2 occasions which makes me worry about safety. The track I have been going to is the new Houston Speedway 1/8 mile. I am planning on HRP Friday. I have no roll bar but I can run some 1/8 mile times.
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From: Troy, AL
I would worry too about the tire spinning that much. I've never had a tire spin on the rim (stock rim) more than a few inches. Weld rims and Hoosier slicks eliminated all of my tire slippin' on the rim problems. No screws and NO slippage. 
I leave about 2000 RPM on my SS4000. Best to date on ET streets is a 1.59 60' on stock 3.23 gears. Track prep makes a huge difference to. I will need to learn where to launch now with the Trex cam now since it has a different power curve and I think thats wgat you need to do as well, just try a few different RPM blocks to see what works best for you...
Dan
Dan
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From: Long Island
I've pulled 1.51's by stalling at 2200 till the 2nd yellow. Then on the 2nd yellow I floor the gas, and on the 3rd yellow I let go of the brake. The tach jumps to almost 4K before the car begins to move. I wish I would have found this out before I did heads and cam. The the fastest stock internal A4 C5 record would be even harder to beat.
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From: Houston,TX
Originally Posted by Colonel
~2900-3000
I guess you already know that you're spinning...so, hitting the converter at the right spot is probably going to make matters worse. It's hard to overcome a poor track but I would suggest first getting a set of LCA relocators and set 'em on the bottom hole...if that doesn't work get a new set of SLICKS (not ETs).
I guess you already know that you're spinning...so, hitting the converter at the right spot is probably going to make matters worse. It's hard to overcome a poor track but I would suggest first getting a set of LCA relocators and set 'em on the bottom hole...if that doesn't work get a new set of SLICKS (not ETs).
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Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
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From: Troy, AL
Nope, if you're looking maximum starting line traction go with the BOTTOM hole regardless of if your car is lowered or not. We're not looking to level the LCAs...we're looking to have an upward angle from rear to front. We want the front of the LCA higher than the rear.
When shopping for an LCA relocator, drop distance was my #1 concern especially since my car has been lowered about an inch or a little more.
When shopping for an LCA relocator, drop distance was my #1 concern especially since my car has been lowered about an inch or a little more.