BoostedBird

my trans in my 97 ws6 took a dump today! car had been running awesome rolling in town and pulled up to a lambo in 1st droped the hammer to second all was god pulled up to the next light and it was clunking all beat hell put it in N and it stoped droped it in drive little hesatation but took off fine next stop did it agian started limping it home and statrted acting like it was poping into N... what can b wrong? this was soposed to be a built trans shiffted hard and quick at least b4 lol thinking about going with a performabuilt stage 2 talked to frank on the phone today (on a sat!) and he seams to know his ****

squirlNUTZ

Check torque converter bolts.

BoostedBird

converter bolts and flex plate all there...

squirlNUTZ

Mmmm...
Who built the transmission? What kind of converter is it? Can you check line pressure? Does pull ok until it "pops into neutral? Or is it slipping. I think of there being a difference in feel for slip and "poping into neutral"

BoostedBird

its a b&m holeshot 3000, the trans was built by a local guy who builds them on the side , the car was pulling good then just would act like you pop in Neutral the furter i tryed limping it home it kept losing gears until i pulled into the drive and had to floor it just to get it to pull into the grage. i have no way to check line pressure and i have little transmission knowlage what so ever. i am pretty set on getting a permabuilt trans but am really confused if the convertor i have now is any good or should i look for another i did cut some 1.68 60ft times on it lol

squirlNUTZ

Did you buy the internal parts for the transmission? So you would know what parts are supposed to be in it?
Sounds like the cluches migh be gone or a shaft or the ?shell?..is it a beast sun shell?. Im going through the local guy build now. I've got all new everything in my transmission and only got to run it for 10 minutes before a puddle began forming under the car. It sucks!
If my transmission doesn't work, $1200.00 into it now, I'm contacting jake performance and getting a 4l80e for sure.
Did you check the fluid level.( really to see the dipstick to inspect it for material) other wise I'd pull the pan to inspect the fluid. Looking for debris.

BoostedBird

the trans came with the car so other than a build sheet i have no ideal whats in there once the noise happend i checked fluid and it wasnt burnt or have any thing in it but now its black and stinks lol

squirlNUTZ

That's sucks. I'd contact jake and look into an 80e. He's giving tech members a discount along with the sale. It's a hell of a deal really. Especialy considering the price for a 60e rebuild and his stage 2 80e. It's a no brainer I think.

Kingc8r

iTrader: (21)

Just remembr there are other costs that go into the swap that can add up. I wouldn't step up to a 4l80 unless I was clearing 600+ hp

squirlNUTZ

I hear ya.... But I drive my car daily, with my engine and modifications it should be a little over 400whp. Add 150 nitrous to that and your pretty close. I'd rather have more transmission then to much motor. Jakes transmissions in stage 2 form hold 700 hp. I think there under $2000.00 right now on sale. Or close to it. Yes there are other cost
crossmember ( which I just modified a BMR) controller ( unless you go with a full manual valve body)
drive shaft ( here local just had 1 built for a 69 camaro $179.00 steel 1000 hp)
converter ( plenty to choose from, my favorite so far is PTC for cost and customer service)
What else would be involved? Even if you spent $3000.00 on the 80e and the stuff for install, your ahead compared to a 60e.

BoostedBird

yeah i did some reading on the 80 and i dont have the time to b meesing with another hassle and added costs dont get me wrong i think its bad *** and im making the power to use it but performabuilt says there trans can hold it now just have to find a good convetor

SnIpEz

iTrader: (4)

Not particularly a whole lot. New crossmember, yoke, dipstick, trans cooler and lines, flex plate, converter. Driveshaft if you want, but the stock one can work.

I work for Jake and you are correct, the Stage II holds about 750 hp, but nitrous will change the game a bit. The sudden shock of the nitrous on the input shaft and the forward hub is too much for the stock parts, when nitrous comes into play we always recommend customers look into the billet input shaft and billet forward hub. A power adder such as a turbo has the power come on more gradually, so it's much easier on the parts.

Here's a picture I took a few months ago of a broken stock 4L80E input shaft (or what's left of it at least) when it went toe to toe with some nitrous



None of our 80e valve bodies are manual valve bodies. If a customer wants a manual trans, we have a little black box that can be plugged in and gives you full manual control. Don't feel like running it manually? Reach under and unplug it, and cruise on

squirlNUTZ

See there^
Jakes is on top of it. They know transmissions better then most. Also they could build you a 60e if you wanted. It couldn't hurt to give them a call in the morning or an email.

squirlNUTZ

Oh, on a converter, I'd try giving performance torque converter a call. No there not a sponsor but it's hard to beat a proven track record over many years, Especialy for the price. That's where I got mine. I don't even really know where it's going to stall at because I gave them my combo ( main concern was cam duration and cubic inch, along with power adder) and they shipped it after it was built in a few days.