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stock 4l60e +stall worth it??

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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 11:07 PM
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daniel(sleepysleepy)'s Avatar
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From: Fort Stewart.
Default stock 4l60e +stall worth it??

running stock everything except intake lid and exhaust custom tune plus100 shot Nitrous power rating
330 on motor
445 on spray
question is will a small converter be the extra push I need to knock down some competitors if so what size like maybe a 2200 of somethin its still a stick engine I don't want to go to big cause I don't want complete race mode all the time can someone shed some light on this for me



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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 11:12 PM
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3200 is what I have but I'm sure most everybody else will tell you a 4000. Mine helped my car a lot.
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 11:16 PM
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3600 at minimum unless you are running boost.
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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 11:19 PM
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From: Fort Stewart.
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no boost just the Nitrous for now stock gears eventually I will cam it but being active.duty military money is tight so I want a converter now that is still road friendly


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Old Jun 20, 2012 | 11:21 PM
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From: Fort Stewart.
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and I will tell the.truth don't really know the point of a stall or.how it works or.ways to use it but everyone says I need one


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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 02:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Blk98Vert
3600 at minimum unless you are running boost.
Anything over stock is better. 3600 is "ideal" for some but usually 3000-3600
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 02:14 AM
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You need to call whatever company you want to use, I recommend PTC out of alabama, and have them build you a converter.
You will want a 3400-3600 built for being able to take a shot.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 02:29 AM
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From: Fort Stewart.
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how road friendly are these 3000 - 3600 this is still a daily driver


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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 03:00 AM
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you really wont noticed it.....I have a 3200 stall and you hardly notice that it is 3200. You will need to have your tanny table adjusted for it though.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 03:04 AM
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From: Fort Stewart.
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what's this tranny table u speak of...


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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 04:26 AM
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it is in the computer of your car. Depending on what OBD you have obd1 or obd2. I have obd2 so I use LT1-Edit and I can edit the part of the tune for tranny's. Otherwise you can take your car to a tuner or mail order tune. Ion does really good work for mail order if you have the software to do it. depending on what stall you get. I could help yeah out............ when you figure out what stall you want..... pm me and see what I can do for you.......
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 09:17 AM
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I haven't had any tuning done for my 3200 and I've had it for about 20,000 miles.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 09:24 AM
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Originally Posted by JWStevens
I haven't had any tuning done for my 3200 and I've had it for about 20,000 miles.
Please tell me you at least got a cooler...

Tuning isn't necessarily required...but it is recommended if you don't want to damage your transmission. You're missing out on shift extension and you're trans has probably been freaking out for the last 20k miles because it doesn't know what to do anymore.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by daniel(sleepysleepy)
what's this tranny table u speak of...


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The misfire detection sensitivity should be reduced too. With an aftermarket stall the different rotational mass from the stock stall will cause the computer to detect it as a false misfire, therefore causing the tq converter to unlock/lock
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 09:45 AM
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Since my camry took a dump I've been DD'ing my car with a 4000 stall. On my drive into work I normally don't go over 2.5rpm... unless I'm in a hurry and running late. It's really not that bad on the street.

Originally Posted by JWStevens
I haven't had any tuning done for my 3200 and I've had it for about 20,000 miles.
The closer to stock stall speed the less you'll need a tune. The looser stalls need the shift points changed to keep from bouncing off the rev limiter. They also cause false misfire codes that prevent the TCC from locking at highway speed. Torque management is a bitch too.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by LS-ONE_DAY
Please tell me you at least got a cooler...

Tuning isn't necessarily required...but it is recommended if you don't want to damage your transmission. You're missing out on shift extension and you're trans has probably been freaking out for the last 20k miles because it doesn't know what to do anymore.
Nope! No cooler. I changed it like I was changing a radiator cap. 240,041 miles on it and when I put the converter in the trans had never been serviced. I will admit it falls out of lockup about once a month and I've got to cycle the key to fix it.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by JWStevens
Nope! No cooler. I changed it like I was changing a radiator cap. 240,041 miles on it and when I put the converter in the trans had never been serviced. I will admit it falls out of lockup about once a month and I've got to cycle the key to fix it.
That's one tough A4, but you've been killing it for the last 20k miles and it won't keep taking it forever.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:45 AM
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If you track the car a stall converter will take more tenths off your ET than pretty much any other mod. For a stock or bolt on car I would go with a 3800-4000.

Last edited by Troy5061; Jun 21, 2012 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by justin455
That's one tough A4, but you've been killing it for the last 20k miles and it won't keep taking it forever.
I've been manually shifting it for a year at the track too. It went to the track 3 times last week alone. I get sick thinking about paying for a tune.... Stupid I know but I can't help it. I finally paid Futral to fix my speedo and move my rev limiter about two weeks ago and it almost killed me. I probably would have never done anything if not for the gear change.
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Old Jun 21, 2012 | 10:50 AM
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You should have just spent the $150 and gotten a mail tune from Frost...that's the minimum I would do.

I'm doing Complete Street Performance's converter package. An FTI unit, install, dyno and street tune for $1350
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