locking/unlocking NOT from misfire
#42
my car used to do that (with the stock converter) as i'd exit the highway coasting up to the offramp it would be locked decelling and then unlock, then lock back for awhile. i havent noticed it since i changed the converter but it might still do it. not sure if its supposed to or not.
#43
so today after a good long drive i lost lockup completely. it would engage and pull the RPM down but any throttle input just results in slippage. was fine when i left work then progressively got worse the longer i drove, trans temp never got over 190°.
spoke with a friend that says its most likely in the transmission or valve body not the converter, but i'd like to know how to figure that out before i get a rebuild and then have the same problem..... makes me want to burn it to the ground.
spoke with a friend that says its most likely in the transmission or valve body not the converter, but i'd like to know how to figure that out before i get a rebuild and then have the same problem..... makes me want to burn it to the ground.
#44
***UPDATE***
spoke to a friend of mine that works on transmissions for a living, based on his recommendations my car is now fixed.
total cost was $80 (not including fluid because i get it free).
main part is the teckpak tcc repair valve, every transmission shop in town had these for $20 or less. i'm no expert but from what i gathered was that is basically disables ANY slip from the PWM, its line pressure to the TCC clutch after installing so lockup is much firmer (feels like a 5th shift).
you do have to pull the pan and valve body to do it but this was my first time ever pulling a vb and i was completely done with the job in 1.5hrs.
parts used:
teckpak 4l60e tcc repair valve for code p1870 (i wasnt getting a code)
valve body gaskets
deep/truck pan
pan gasket
filter
fluid
if you want a direct replacement pan with a drain plug and a little extra capacity get one for a 4l65e and the corresponding filter, i have no need for a drain plug (i do my changes through a machine) so i went with a regular truck pan which is a little deeper, maybe 1 quart more if that but for the cost it was worth it.
here is the link to the valve:
http://www.teckpak-fitzall.com/spgm.cfm?id=A74741Q
spoke to a friend of mine that works on transmissions for a living, based on his recommendations my car is now fixed.
total cost was $80 (not including fluid because i get it free).
main part is the teckpak tcc repair valve, every transmission shop in town had these for $20 or less. i'm no expert but from what i gathered was that is basically disables ANY slip from the PWM, its line pressure to the TCC clutch after installing so lockup is much firmer (feels like a 5th shift).
you do have to pull the pan and valve body to do it but this was my first time ever pulling a vb and i was completely done with the job in 1.5hrs.
parts used:
teckpak 4l60e tcc repair valve for code p1870 (i wasnt getting a code)
valve body gaskets
deep/truck pan
pan gasket
filter
fluid
if you want a direct replacement pan with a drain plug and a little extra capacity get one for a 4l65e and the corresponding filter, i have no need for a drain plug (i do my changes through a machine) so i went with a regular truck pan which is a little deeper, maybe 1 quart more if that but for the cost it was worth it.
here is the link to the valve:
http://www.teckpak-fitzall.com/spgm.cfm?id=A74741Q
#45
***another update***
car did the same thing today after driving for awhile. pretty much no lockup, it slides down (rpm) but doesnt pull the engine down and any throttle just revs.
it starts on the highway at higher speeds 70mph+ and i have a 7.5"x12" cooler (forget the ratings), but with the converter locked on the highway going that fast i doubt the trans fluid temp is very high.
its been fine for 2 days but it has been a little cooler outside... i'll see how it acts on the way to work tomorrow when its cooler outside again.
car did the same thing today after driving for awhile. pretty much no lockup, it slides down (rpm) but doesnt pull the engine down and any throttle just revs.
it starts on the highway at higher speeds 70mph+ and i have a 7.5"x12" cooler (forget the ratings), but with the converter locked on the highway going that fast i doubt the trans fluid temp is very high.
its been fine for 2 days but it has been a little cooler outside... i'll see how it acts on the way to work tomorrow when its cooler outside again.
#47
Moderator
Ron, I recall that your unlock TPS is at only 12.5%. That seems really low and might be triggering your unwanted un-locks. Why not set it to e.g. 25% and give it a try. I have mine set to around 40% for unlock.