yank tranny and 3/4 pack
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From: Brew City
yank tranny and 3/4 pack i bought this thing -it lasted a week -then i replaced the pump and the 6 pak 3/4 that yank had in there with a 9 pak
i have no idea why i keep eating 3/4 up--the last pack lasted 2 hours?
valve body issues? or is it my stock programming?
anyone know what i could be missing--it has a new beast sun shell --new alto 3/4 9 pack new rebuilt pump--could it be a converter issue?
dunno im outta ideas and money
i have no idea why i keep eating 3/4 up--the last pack lasted 2 hours?
valve body issues? or is it my stock programming?
anyone know what i could be missing--it has a new beast sun shell --new alto 3/4 9 pack new rebuilt pump--could it be a converter issue?
dunno im outta ideas and money
Dude, I am having the same problem. Me and my tranny guy have no idea. First time about 125 miles, the next about 60 miles. I can't keep 3 and 4. No abuse either. 1 and 2 are beautiful. Sorry no idea's but if anything happens I will post.
Hey Listen up, First things first, check your line pressure!!!!! Line pressure good, then and only then check for hyd. leak on the sealing rings. Thats where I'd start. Burning up is normally a sign of low pressure or a pressure leak. Hope this helps. Dave
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After checking line pressure, assuming it's at 240-ish, I wonder if you do any full throttle downshifts. There is an inherent problem with full throttle downshifts on this trans. It can absorb full throttle upshifts easily, but the downshifts leave fluid in the drum. The problem is that the fluid needs to drain in the radial center of the drum, but the speed of the transmission wants to throw the fluid (centrifugally) outward, away from the drain provisions. This causes some shifting problems. The clutches object.
The bottom line is that, a built 4L60E can take some severe upshifts, but won't live through very many kick-downs (read: races from a roll). Try rebuilding and racing the 4L60E only from a dig. It may just last a while.
SC-
The bottom line is that, a built 4L60E can take some severe upshifts, but won't live through very many kick-downs (read: races from a roll). Try rebuilding and racing the 4L60E only from a dig. It may just last a while.
SC-
Originally Posted by GrapeApe
i bought this thing -it lasted a week -then i replaced the pump and the 6 pak 3/4 that yank had in there with a 9 pak
i have no idea why i keep eating 3/4 up--the last pack lasted 2 hours?
valve body issues? or is it my stock programming?
anyone know what i could be missing--it has a new beast sun shell --new alto 3/4 9 pack new rebuilt pump--could it be a converter issue?
dunno im outta ideas and money
i have no idea why i keep eating 3/4 up--the last pack lasted 2 hours?
valve body issues? or is it my stock programming?
anyone know what i could be missing--it has a new beast sun shell --new alto 3/4 9 pack new rebuilt pump--could it be a converter issue?
dunno im outta ideas and money
Hey man
Do you have any other work done to the tranny shiftkit/billiet servos etc? how much power are you making?
I went through 10 trannys last year ( smoked 3/4 everytime ) with anywhere from 50 miles to the max of 800 miles so i have experience with this.
let me know i have some ideas
Jeremy
Mine is vacume modulated with extra clutches. New sunshell, not the beast. Corvette servo's, transgo shift kit, and somethings have been changed with the check *****, but not sure which ones. Sorry to hijack, but I though it was weird to be having the same problem. Oh and the guy working on it is a Tranny guy for a living.
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Thread Starter
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From: Brew City
Originally Posted by offaxis
Hey man
Do you have any other work done to the tranny shiftkit/billiet servos etc? how much power are you making?
I went through 10 trannys last year ( smoked 3/4 everytime ) with anywhere from 50 miles to the max of 800 miles so i have experience with this.
let me know i have some ideas
Jeremy
Do you have any other work done to the tranny shiftkit/billiet servos etc? how much power are you making?
I went through 10 trannys last year ( smoked 3/4 everytime ) with anywhere from 50 miles to the max of 800 miles so i have experience with this.
let me know i have some ideas
Jeremy
rebuilt 3/4 pack "yank only uses a 6 pak i went with a 9 pak "
the only thing i havent messed with is the valve body --the thing hits hard in 2nd but when it goes for third no dice --i'm going to try programming
my cars comp. still thinks it has 2:73 gears and it now has 4:10s
so it may not know when to apply more psi ect. --thwe only other thing it could be is my converter --i had the rebuilt and restalled by midwest tc
it has a new boost valve also --this thing is pissin me off and bleeding me dry
hell my stock tranny was better than this pile of ****
I'll never buy another yank product
my old yank converter wrecked the splines in one month "metal hardness issues" ect pure junk and im not being over dramatic--its just a very poor quality unit
i'm guessing 430ish on the rwhp 400ish in tq
my stock tranny held up just fine to this hp-well untill the rear planet went
but i should of just fixed that and put a beast shell in it
i had maybe 10k on that stock tranny with the same rwhp and aprox 40 1/4 mile runs -my tranny guy knows his crap -and he isnt sure what is causeing this --next step maybe the new Z-PAK 14 disc 3/4 pak
Last edited by GrapeApe; Apr 6, 2004 at 06:50 PM.
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Fluid flow is a big problem for the 3-4 pack. As you increase torque you need to increase the flow to compensate for the increases. You'll want the 2-3 shift feed hole around .100-.120" and the 3-4 shift feed hole ~.120" also...if you're running a high stall converter. Also make sure you have the .490-.500" boost valve in the pump.
I like the Alto Red Eagle 9 pack for the 3-4 setup. It's great setup and the clutches are only minimally thinner .063" I believe than the OE ones. They are full faced clutches (not waved/waffled) and have a special friction material and excellent backing. Use those with the Kolene Steels.
Are you 100% sure the TqMgt is fully deleted also? You have a big cooler yet?
I like the Alto Red Eagle 9 pack for the 3-4 setup. It's great setup and the clutches are only minimally thinner .063" I believe than the OE ones. They are full faced clutches (not waved/waffled) and have a special friction material and excellent backing. Use those with the Kolene Steels.
Are you 100% sure the TqMgt is fully deleted also? You have a big cooler yet?
listen up You must check your LINE PRESSURE. You MUST have immediate and responsive line reaction. Line rise is the base for all shifts in a trans. Take it to your guy check the pressures........Easy to do for a good trans guy. simple, don't worry about the pressure(Now) just make sure it rises. That is all Hope this helps...Dave
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Originally Posted by Rock-On
You must check your LINE PRESSURE. You MUST have immediate and responsive line reaction. Line rise is the base for all shifts in a trans. Take it to your guy check the pressures........Easy to do for a good trans guy. simple, don't worry about the pressure(Now) just make sure it rises. That is all Hope this helps...Dave
That's why I asked about Torque Managment...it pulls line pressure on shifts...
Get away from all computers, and electronic's; hang a manual gage on this unit and pull the numbers, thats all I was saying, thats what we do here before and after on every unit we work. You'll be surprised how many will try to leave with slow line rise, you'll burn 3/4 everytime reguardless of pac thickness. I've noticed with 27 years around transmissions that very few shops will check this simple test, it's funny to me cause on some transmissions thats the only pressure port on the trans.The manufacturer found it (line rise) that important, i guess. Another though is on todays transmission there are 8 to 12 outside the transmission controlers that have an effect on the transmissions, for example the tps. You have a bad one here and it can for sure burn you up. But by checking this one simple test you can remove all doubt about these engine controlers, and computers. Well guys I hope this helps. Dave
My guy checks the presures before and after too. I know this cause he makes me drive it, he doesn't like to drive others cars. I asked him about the feed lines and he said they were at .120 allready. Oh well he is putting together thurs if the new clutches come in. Thanks for all the help. I'm going to try it again and then if no luck I'm throwing in the 6 speed.
Rides????? The procedure I'm talking about is done on the lift ....or the flat ground, pressure doesn't mean anything if it's not responsive! Simple to test takes three minutes....ps be careful not to take the gage into the car being tested, them hoses can break! Hope this helps Dave.
Oh by the way what is the pressure in thrid gear,with the pedal to the floor? Just curious, have a good day
Oh by the way what is the pressure in thrid gear,with the pedal to the floor? Just curious, have a good day
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From: Brew City
Originally Posted by Rock-On
You must check your LINE PRESSURE. You MUST have immediate and responsive line reaction. Line rise is the base for all shifts in a trans. Take it to your guy check the pressures........Easy to do for a good trans guy. simple, don't worry about the pressure(Now) just make sure it rises. That is all Hope this helps...Dave
I just got done doing the pressure testing on my new transmission last week. Its a pain to hook the gauge up and yes i ran the hose along side the outside of the car and into the window. You want to see the pressure go 100% at about half throttle. Carl told me that without having the pressure ramp up earlier the cars tend to burn up the clutches at the lower throttle positions. The stock tuning doesnt take into account that your modified car is making more power. I talked at length with Carl Rossler about this. I had the tuner adjust the tune so the pressure comes on faster. Carl has my transmission setup so the max pressure is only 210. he says anymore is not necessary. He uses a proprietary 3-4 clutch pack that he claims has never comeback worn out in one of his transmissions. IMHO driving around to check pressure is a must. Just my .02 By the way my first transmission had 12K and was not burned up. I just wanted to head it off at the pass, insuring a full season and getting it rebuilt while i had a good core. Carl rebuilds YOUR transmission not someone elses core.
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From: Brew City
Originally Posted by koolrayz
I just got done doing the pressure testing on my new transmission last week. Its a pain to hook the gauge up and yes i ran the hose along side the outside of the car and into the window. You want to see the pressure go 100% at about half throttle. Carl told me that without having the pressure ramp up earlier the cars tend to burn up the clutches at the lower throttle positions. The stock tuning doesnt take into account that your modified car is making more power. I talked at length with Carl Rossler about this. I had the tuner adjust the tune so the pressure comes on faster. Carl has my transmission setup so the max pressure is only 210. he says anymore is not necessary. He uses a proprietary 3-4 clutch pack that he claims has never comeback worn out in one of his transmissions. IMHO driving around to check pressure is a must. Just my .02 By the way my first transmission had 12K and was not burned up. I just wanted to head it off at the pass, insuring a full season and getting it rebuilt while i had a good core. Carl rebuilds YOUR transmission not someone elses core.
i'm so friggen sick of this Yank pile of 4l60--i'll maybe have him go through it
if its not going to cost me a buttload