SS4000 users, need info please.
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From: Houston, TX
SS4000 users, need info please. What rpms are you stalling it up to at the track? What kind of 60 fts., 1/8, and 1/4 times? Please specify setup: tires, suspension, weight, mods, etc. Trying to compare my times because they just flat out suck! Pullin consistent mid 1.6s, with a best of 1.62. Consistent 11.5s with a best of 11.52 with a crappy 60 ft. Anyhow, just wanted to get some numbers from those using the same converter so that I can compare. Thanks.
Everything is in the sig, but I was running the TR230 cam at the time and I was on 26x11.5x16 ET streets, 3.23 gears, and HAL Shocks. I launched about 2000 RPM with that cam and a race weight of 3550 lbs. To be honest, I'm not even happy with the 1.59 60' I got, should be low 1.5's easy, but I don't have the gear for it either.
Are you getting wheel spin? You may be spinning the tires and not know it unlees someone is watching you to let ya know. What PSI you running the tires at?
Dan
Are you getting wheel spin? You may be spinning the tires and not know it unlees someone is watching you to let ya know. What PSI you running the tires at?
Dan
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From: Houston, TX
Last night I was spinning a little and pulled a best of 1.65 which really disappoints me. Last night I ran 14, 13, and 12 psi, but didnt see any difference. My 60 fts. ranged between 1.65 and 1.68. I figured that with my setup that I should be pulling low 1.6s and maybe 1.59/1.60 with good weather and dead hooks. I tried all different rpm lauches as well, 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000. I had the driver's side rear on 3, passenger side rear on 4, and the fronts on 2. I know that I dont have as steep of gear as a 4L60E, but I wouldnt think it would make that much of a difference. (200-4R-2.75/4L60E-3.06) Mods are in my sig, what do you think is wrong? Thanks.
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From: Richmond, VA
Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
What rpms are you stalling it up to at the track? What kind of 60 fts., 1/8, and 1/4 times? Please specify setup: tires, suspension, weight, mods, etc. Trying to compare my times because they just flat out suck! Pullin consistent mid 1.6s, with a best of 1.62. Consistent 11.5s with a best of 11.52 with a crappy 60 ft. Anyhow, just wanted to get some numbers from those using the same converter so that I can compare. Thanks.
Last edited by Professa; Apr 6, 2004 at 11:15 AM. Reason: updated sig
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From: Houston, TX
Yes, I did give up a little with the 200-4Rs 1st gear. It has a 2.75 while the 4L60E has a 3.06. So yes it does play a factor, but I dont know if its the entire reason. Im trying to pin-point my problem. I know theres several SS4000 users out there, I hope they chime in.
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C'mon guys, help me out here. I know theres more than 1 member on here using this particular converter. I just want to see if the converter is showing the numbers it should be or if its not, I wanna see whats up with my car. Thanks
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From: Troy, AL
If you've used the search button then you already know but here's one more...
346ci heads/cam
3525 lb raceweight
3.23 gears
stock wheels all the way around
ET Streets in the back/stock in the front
Launching at ~2800-2900 = consistant 1.55-1.56 60 fts
If you can't hook, you can't see what your converter can do.
346ci heads/cam
3525 lb raceweight
3.23 gears
stock wheels all the way around
ET Streets in the back/stock in the front
Launching at ~2800-2900 = consistant 1.55-1.56 60 fts
If you can't hook, you can't see what your converter can do.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
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Colonel, I know you have heads which I dont have, but would that affect where I would stall it up to? Was 2800/2900 rpm putting the best numbers down for you? I know that you have a bit better gearing than I do, but would it make that big of a difference? My car weighs just under 3300 lbs. now with me in it and as I said before, Im pulling consistent mid 1.6s. IMO, something isnt right. What do you think? Thanks.
I have the same convertor ,and i have made it to the track only once since installing it. But what i have seen from my stock internal n/a set up is this vertor hits hard .Much more than my Vig 3600 did.
I went to the track on brand new Nitto dr's and could not hook at all,i spun at every rpm i tried to launch.
My best was 1.7,but that's the same best i got with E/T streets and my Vig.
I have nothing more to shed light on your setup other than letting you know i will post the next trip to the tracks results on E/T streets.
I hope you get your number,Whatever it is,you havent really said what your shooting for other than lower than 1.6's.
Good luck.
Dave
I went to the track on brand new Nitto dr's and could not hook at all,i spun at every rpm i tried to launch.
My best was 1.7,but that's the same best i got with E/T streets and my Vig.
I have nothing more to shed light on your setup other than letting you know i will post the next trip to the tracks results on E/T streets.
I hope you get your number,Whatever it is,you havent really said what your shooting for other than lower than 1.6's.
Good luck.
Dave
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From: Houston, TX
Not really shooting for anything, I just thought that this converter had more in it. I figured my car could be doing better, but then again, Im always comparing my car to others. So I figured if I can get some numbers from those using the same converter, then maybe I could make better judgements. I would at least think this converter was good for consistent low 1.6s and hopefully on a good day a 1.59.
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My best was a 1.54 with stock internals, and I was more than happy. Then I did heads and cam, and was in the 1.6's, with a best of 1.58. My technique was powerbraking to 2200.
Last time at the track I was messing around, and flashed the converter for a new best.
I powerbraked at 2200, then on the 2nd light I'd floor it with my foot still on the brake, and on the 3rd yellow I'd let of the brake. This resulted in a few 1.51's, back to back! I tried to glance at the tack, and it appeared that I was launching at close to 4000rpms, but it was hard to tell. Btw, my raceweight is around 3350.
Last time at the track I was messing around, and flashed the converter for a new best.
I powerbraked at 2200, then on the 2nd light I'd floor it with my foot still on the brake, and on the 3rd yellow I'd let of the brake. This resulted in a few 1.51's, back to back! I tried to glance at the tack, and it appeared that I was launching at close to 4000rpms, but it was hard to tell. Btw, my raceweight is around 3350.
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From: Troy, AL
Originally Posted by BlackBeaSSt
Colonel, I know you have heads which I dont have, but would that affect where I would stall it up to? Was 2800/2900 rpm putting the best numbers down for you? I know that you have a bit better gearing than I do, but would it make that big of a difference? My car weighs just under 3300 lbs. now with me in it and as I said before, Im pulling consistent mid 1.6s. IMO, something isnt right. What do you think? Thanks.
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I dont think I have a traction problem, but I could be wrong. The last time I was out I was experiencing traction problems, but I think that was because they werent prepping the track all that great that night. But it was only a bit worse from when I was hooking good. That particular night I was pulling mid/high 1.6s, but the nights I was hooking good it was in the low/mid 1.6s. Im running 26x11.5x15 ET Streets and I have a mild setup, so I dont see how these tires wouldnt hook. Ive tried all the way from 1500 rpms up to 3000 rpms, but no big improvement, maybe 1-2 hundredths. Do you think it could be that you have heads and I dont?
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From: Troy, AL
No, I don't believe it's because I have heads. I pulled 1.61 with the STOCK engine with a measly 3500 stall before this setup. It's been my experience that the converter and vehicle weight have alot more to do with the 60fts than a little power.
Are you toting the front tires on the launch? If not, I think you're spinning just a bit and don't realize it. It's very hard to sense a little slippage if you're not extremely in tune with what a DEAD hook launch feels like. Almost dead hooking might feel pretty good but it's not going to show you the potential of the car. A good video camera and a vertical stripe painted on the sidewall might help to determine if you're truly dead hooking.
No matter what tires you have, you can't beat poor track prep. You can air 'em down, you can get 'em hot, you can replace them with brand new slicks, you can make suspension mods, and you can move some weight around. But if all that fails you're at the mercy of the track. Good luck!
Are you toting the front tires on the launch? If not, I think you're spinning just a bit and don't realize it. It's very hard to sense a little slippage if you're not extremely in tune with what a DEAD hook launch feels like. Almost dead hooking might feel pretty good but it's not going to show you the potential of the car. A good video camera and a vertical stripe painted on the sidewall might help to determine if you're truly dead hooking.
No matter what tires you have, you can't beat poor track prep. You can air 'em down, you can get 'em hot, you can replace them with brand new slicks, you can make suspension mods, and you can move some weight around. But if all that fails you're at the mercy of the track. Good luck!
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Whats toting the front tires? My father has video recorded all my passes since we've put the auto. in, what should I look for? You could be right though, I may not be getting dead hooks, but it sure does feel good. Before I did the tubular k-member, upper/lower a-arms, and lightweighy battery, I was just getting the front drivers side tire off the ground, but now the front passenger gets off just a tad. How much can slight spin affect the times? Thanks Colonel for your help so far.
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From: Troy, AL
"How much can slight spin affect the times?"
More than you might think. Two runs might feel exactly the same to you and one have 1/2 tenth quicker 60ft.
Toting means pulling them off the ground.
Like I've already mentioned, paint a stripe (with shoe polish) on the tire leading from the rim to the edge of the tread. That will enable you to see what's going on when you play back the video. A good filming position is important. Fairly close up and from the side.
Why the name change NV? I can't keep up with you.
More than you might think. Two runs might feel exactly the same to you and one have 1/2 tenth quicker 60ft.
Toting means pulling them off the ground.
Like I've already mentioned, paint a stripe (with shoe polish) on the tire leading from the rim to the edge of the tread. That will enable you to see what's going on when you play back the video. A good filming position is important. Fairly close up and from the side.
Why the name change NV? I can't keep up with you.
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Colonel: I think I have an idea what you are suggesting me to do with the shoe polish and all, but if you could be a little more specific it might make things clearer for me. Most of my runs are recorded just as you described. Anyhow, back to the stripe, how exactly does this work? Thanks.
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From: Troy, AL
The strip just gives your eye a reference point on the tire making it easier to SEE the tire speed in relation to the ground. In other words, you can see that the tire is spinning easier.