Tuner recommended overfilling tranny to help shifting with a big stall
#21
thats what we are saying is that you just need to lower the commanded shift points (or bump the limiter up a tad if the owner is willing).
not all solenoids react as quick as others, its not always transmission issues that cause this.
not to sound like a dick but it sounds like you have programmed hundreds of 60e's not tuned them, tuning them requires inputting what the transmission requires to do what its supposed in the tune, not what a calculator says and hoping it works. and yes i use the same calculator and it is always VERY close, but a calculator cannot factor in lazy solenoids or slow valves.
not all solenoids react as quick as others, its not always transmission issues that cause this.
not to sound like a dick but it sounds like you have programmed hundreds of 60e's not tuned them, tuning them requires inputting what the transmission requires to do what its supposed in the tune, not what a calculator says and hoping it works. and yes i use the same calculator and it is always VERY close, but a calculator cannot factor in lazy solenoids or slow valves.
#22
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thats what we are saying is that you just need to lower the commanded shift points (or bump the limiter up a tad if the owner is willing).
not all solenoids react as quick as others, its not always transmission issues that cause this.
not to sound like a dick but it sounds like you have programmed hundreds of 60e's not tuned them, tuning them requires inputting what the transmission requires to do what its supposed in the tune, not what a calculator says and hoping it works. and yes i use the same calculator and it is always VERY close, but a calculator cannot factor in lazy solenoids or slow valves.
not all solenoids react as quick as others, its not always transmission issues that cause this.
not to sound like a dick but it sounds like you have programmed hundreds of 60e's not tuned them, tuning them requires inputting what the transmission requires to do what its supposed in the tune, not what a calculator says and hoping it works. and yes i use the same calculator and it is always VERY close, but a calculator cannot factor in lazy solenoids or slow valves.
#24
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Well In fact I have found with the 4l60e and stock depth pan or even deep pan such as the derale and the stock short filter it is actually a good idea to be just over the full mark warm with the 4l60e the reason is simple really there is actually not alotta fluid in there. The valve body takes up most of the area of the pan and at high rpm (converter size can matter as the RPM rises much more quickly with a high stall) the fluid simply cannot return fast enough to keep the filter under fluid well.
Now add the fact that on the 2-3 shift a lot more is happening and the fluid requirement is higher as you are not only applying a the 3-4 clutch set you are filling the rear chamber (2-3 accumulator) area of the 2nd gear servo to release it so the fluid requirement is higher . Then if let’s say you are in the D position rather than OD position it’s even worse as you are also refilling the overrun piston to on the 2-3 shifts. So IMO if you have a car that pulls hard with low gears and or a high stall or even spray yes you can evacuate the pan and get low line and in particular this will affect the 2-3 shifts more than any other gear.
Also of note always bear in mind the 2-3 shift is a more complicated shift, You are not like the 1-2 just applying a servo you are using fluid to both release the band and you are simultaneously applying the 3-4 clutch pack so yes the actual time to complete the shift is typically a bit longer than the time to complete the 1-2 shift.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
Frank at PerformaBuilt
Now add the fact that on the 2-3 shift a lot more is happening and the fluid requirement is higher as you are not only applying a the 3-4 clutch set you are filling the rear chamber (2-3 accumulator) area of the 2nd gear servo to release it so the fluid requirement is higher . Then if let’s say you are in the D position rather than OD position it’s even worse as you are also refilling the overrun piston to on the 2-3 shifts. So IMO if you have a car that pulls hard with low gears and or a high stall or even spray yes you can evacuate the pan and get low line and in particular this will affect the 2-3 shifts more than any other gear.
Also of note always bear in mind the 2-3 shift is a more complicated shift, You are not like the 1-2 just applying a servo you are using fluid to both release the band and you are simultaneously applying the 3-4 clutch pack so yes the actual time to complete the shift is typically a bit longer than the time to complete the 1-2 shift.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
Frank at PerformaBuilt
__________________
#25
thank you op and Frank! I believe you just helped solve my problem. I had my tuner drop the commanded rpm because the first time out with the GTA we were hitting the limiter on the 2-3 shift. It had never hit the limiter before. I have a Performabuilt lvl 2 and Edge 3,600 stall. We go down the track in Drive instead of OD.
It sounds like it's time to set the commanded shifts back to where they were (we lost 2 tenths from moving them down), add a little more fluid, and maybe get the deeper pan.
Thanks again!
It sounds like it's time to set the commanded shifts back to where they were (we lost 2 tenths from moving them down), add a little more fluid, and maybe get the deeper pan.
Thanks again!
#26
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Well In fact I have found with the 4l60e and stock depth pan or even deep pan such as the derale and the stock short filter it is actually a good idea to be just over the full mark warm with the 4l60e the reason is simple really there is actually not alotta fluid in there. The valve body takes up most of the area of the pan and at high rpm (converter size can matter as the RPM rises much more quickly with a high stall) the fluid simply cannot return fast enough to keep the filter under fluid well.
Now add the fact that on the 2-3 shift a lot more is happening and the fluid requirement is higher as you are not only applying a the 3-4 clutch set you are filling the rear chamber (2-3 accumulator) area of the 2nd gear servo to release it so the fluid requirement is higher . Then if let’s say you are in the D position rather than OD position it’s even worse as you are also refilling the overrun piston to on the 2-3 shifts. So IMO if you have a car that pulls hard with low gears and or a high stall or even spray yes you can evacuate the pan and get low line and in particular this will affect the 2-3 shifts more than any other gear.
Also of note always bear in mind the 2-3 shift is a more complicated shift, You are not like the 1-2 just applying a servo you are using fluid to both release the band and you are simultaneously applying the 3-4 clutch pack so yes the actual time to complete the shift is typically a bit longer than the time to complete the 1-2 shift.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
Frank at PerformaBuilt
Now add the fact that on the 2-3 shift a lot more is happening and the fluid requirement is higher as you are not only applying a the 3-4 clutch set you are filling the rear chamber (2-3 accumulator) area of the 2nd gear servo to release it so the fluid requirement is higher . Then if let’s say you are in the D position rather than OD position it’s even worse as you are also refilling the overrun piston to on the 2-3 shifts. So IMO if you have a car that pulls hard with low gears and or a high stall or even spray yes you can evacuate the pan and get low line and in particular this will affect the 2-3 shifts more than any other gear.
Also of note always bear in mind the 2-3 shift is a more complicated shift, You are not like the 1-2 just applying a servo you are using fluid to both release the band and you are simultaneously applying the 3-4 clutch pack so yes the actual time to complete the shift is typically a bit longer than the time to complete the 1-2 shift.
Just my thoughts on the matter.
Frank at PerformaBuilt