4L60E shift kit question
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4L60E shift kit question Im just wanting to up the line pressure in my trans to have a tighter grip on the clutch packs. Someone told me they can do that when the tune the car. My question is should i go ahead and spend the money for shift kit or just have the tuner firm the shifts? Its a 2000 SS camaro with long tubes, ory, and a bbk intake for now. I plan an adding a stall and cam in the future when ever i get the funds lol
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Even a stock tune will command 100% pressure anywhere near WOT shifts, so you need to increase line pressure.
You don't even need a full shift kit, just a Boost valve. Let me recommend this from Sonnax:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...LB1-LB2-IN.pdf
As far as I know any trans from '98 through '06 will use the 4L60E-LB1 (longer) boost valve. 2008 and later need the 4L60E-LB2 (shorter). Don't know about 2007. As the Sonnax instructions say, make sure it matches the length of the OE one.
You only need to drop the pan to install a Boost valve; you do NOT need to drop the valve body as you would for a full shift kit.
EDIT: Braiden1 posted while I was still composing.
You don't even need a full shift kit, just a Boost valve. Let me recommend this from Sonnax:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...LB1-LB2-IN.pdf
As far as I know any trans from '98 through '06 will use the 4L60E-LB1 (longer) boost valve. 2008 and later need the 4L60E-LB2 (shorter). Don't know about 2007. As the Sonnax instructions say, make sure it matches the length of the OE one.
You only need to drop the pan to install a Boost valve; you do NOT need to drop the valve body as you would for a full shift kit.
EDIT: Braiden1 posted while I was still composing.
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Wen i get on my 2001 Ram Air from a stop, first gear is strong and it shifts into 2nd even squawking the tires (I supposedly have a shift kit and sometimes it hits 2nd hard) but all of a sudden its like no power is getting to the tires. Kind of like the car is bogging out. If i drive very casual, theres no problem
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As I mentioned, you only have to drop the pan (and filter) to change the boost valve. I don't have a good pic of that with only the pan removed, but the boost valve fits into the hole on the right side of this pic of the pump, which puts it on the front passenger side. On the left side you see the TCC valve. (Both are accessible with only the pan/filter removed.)
Using snap ring pliers remove the "C" click holding the boost valve in.
Here is a picture of all the Boost valve parts:
This is a picture of the Boost valve parts, the TCC valve parts and the tool I use to remove the C-Clips.
As long as the pressure regulator valve doesn't fall out (it usually doesn't), its not hard to stack the four other parts and push them up. Sure the small spring has to position on the upper valve, but if it doesn't it won't assemble because that is a very stiff spring.
If the regulator valve does fall out, use a blob of vaseline to hold it up.
Just be very sure the C-clip is completely seated.
I hope those pics are useful to you.
Using snap ring pliers remove the "C" click holding the boost valve in.
Here is a picture of all the Boost valve parts:
This is a picture of the Boost valve parts, the TCC valve parts and the tool I use to remove the C-Clips.
As long as the pressure regulator valve doesn't fall out (it usually doesn't), its not hard to stack the four other parts and push them up. Sure the small spring has to position on the upper valve, but if it doesn't it won't assemble because that is a very stiff spring.
If the regulator valve does fall out, use a blob of vaseline to hold it up.
Just be very sure the C-clip is completely seated.
I hope those pics are useful to you.
Last edited by mrvedit; Oct 7, 2012 at 08:40 PM.
Im just wanting to up the line pressure in my trans to have a tighter grip on the clutch packs. Someone told me they can do that when the tune the car. My question is should i go ahead and spend the money for shift kit or just have the tuner firm the shifts? Its a 2000 SS camaro with long tubes, ory, and a bbk intake for now. I plan an adding a stall and cam in the future when ever i get the funds lol
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
The Sonnax Boost valve kit comes with the Sleeve, the valve, the larger spring and a spare C-clip, i.e. the four (4) upper-right parts in my pics. It will also include two O-rings for installation on the Sleeve; this helps it seal better than the stock one. My earlier link had the instructions, but here it is again:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...LB1-LB2-IN.pdf
BTW - With the Sonnax Boost valve my current trans runs 140psi at Idle and a max of 225psi under acceleration (or in Reverse). Stock is more in the 70 to 175psi range.
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Stock trans = weak and uninspiring shifts
Add a converter = Cadillac smooth, can't even feel it shifting most times
Add in good transmission tuning = Way better then stock, firm, crisp shifts though the converter does absorb some
Add in a shift kit = Some shifts will be too harsh, need to back the aggressiveness down from the tuning
Shift kit/mild trans tuning = Perfecto.
My experience.
Add a converter = Cadillac smooth, can't even feel it shifting most times
Add in good transmission tuning = Way better then stock, firm, crisp shifts though the converter does absorb some
Add in a shift kit = Some shifts will be too harsh, need to back the aggressiveness down from the tuning
Shift kit/mild trans tuning = Perfecto.
My experience.
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Sorry for the confusion. You DO NOT have to remove the TCC valve; that was the only pic I had to show the tool.
The Sonnax Boost valve kit comes with the Sleeve, the valve, the larger spring and a spare C-clip, i.e. the four (4) upper-right parts in my pics. It will also include two O-rings for installation on the Sleeve; this helps it seal better than the stock one. My earlier link had the instructions, but here it is again:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...LB1-LB2-IN.pdf
BTW - With the Sonnax Boost valve my current trans runs 140psi at Idle and a max of 225psi under acceleration (or in Reverse). Stock is more in the 70 to 175psi range.
The Sonnax Boost valve kit comes with the Sleeve, the valve, the larger spring and a spare C-clip, i.e. the four (4) upper-right parts in my pics. It will also include two O-rings for installation on the Sleeve; this helps it seal better than the stock one. My earlier link had the instructions, but here it is again:
http://www.sonnax.com/system/instruc...LB1-LB2-IN.pdf
BTW - With the Sonnax Boost valve my current trans runs 140psi at Idle and a max of 225psi under acceleration (or in Reverse). Stock is more in the 70 to 175psi range.
Would boosting the pressure that high do any damage to any internal seals or the pistons in the clutch packs?
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Sonnax makes numerous parts that every trans rebuilder (stock and performance) uses.
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I'm not an expert on this question, but I recall reading posts from experts who said that damage starts to occur above 300psi. 225psi seems to be the target pressure for aftermarket boost valves.
Sonnax makes numerous parts that every trans rebuilder (stock and performance) uses.
Sonnax makes numerous parts that every trans rebuilder (stock and performance) uses.