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4L60E doesn't spin, need help please

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Old 11-19-2012, 08:16 PM
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thanks to all of you guys for your inputs!
Old 11-19-2012, 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvedit
No, the trans can be in any position to spin the converter. Think about it - when you are in Park, the engine is running and therefore the converter is spinning and since it should be engaged in the trans' pump, there should be fluid pressure in the pump.
If you have no fluid pressure, e.g. nothing coming out of the cooling lines, then either the converter is not fully engaged into the trans or the pump is defective.
Dump question - you did install a LS-compatible converter and not one for an LT1 engine and/or 700R4 trans.
I just saw this. The convertor came with the transmission that came from a 1999 Camaro V8. That's what the guy who sold it to me said. He used it in a RX8. I don't know if in that car he had a LT1 or a LS1. I will search on what the differences are between the TCs


That's exactly why I was confused: why was I not able to turn it by hand in park, since with the engine on it is supposed to spin. But I seem to be able to start it in park .

I will check more into it maybe the following week-end to see what's going on.

Thanks
Old 11-19-2012, 10:18 PM
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One last thought, since I don't have a yoke as you said and the transmission is leaking if I add fluid, can it be that without a yoke it won't hold enough fluid to have enough pressure? Even if the dipstick shows the level as being higher than full?
Old 01-30-2013, 06:32 PM
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I installed the driveshaft a while ago and since today was warm so I could open up the garage door I filled the transmission completely and started the engine. No fluid comes out of the transmission lines. I know now nothing is blocked cause I can suck fluid trhough both lines as well as cooler.
I guess the onbly answer now is that the pump is shot.
From what I read I could not have used a LT1 TC without doing any mods to the flexplate.

That sucks, but I got to remove the transmission and either buy another one or have a rebuilt on that one.
Old 01-30-2013, 07:56 PM
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Reading the entire thread again, it does sound like you have the correct converter.
So, either you have no fluid, the filter is not installed correctly or the pump is shot.
Be sure you have the correct filter; a deep pan needs a deep filter; the spacers on the bottom of the filter will touch the pan.
Old 01-30-2013, 10:00 PM
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Fluid there is. It came out of the breather on the top of the transmission. I will check the filter as you say but I don't put my hopes into it. I don't think the transmission was ever opened from what I can see. Hopefully I can check that this week end and post my findings.

Thanks !!
Old 02-05-2013, 08:43 PM
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Hi, just wanted to let you know that I removed the transmission. The 2 "fingers" of the pump in which the TC goes are busted. I'll probably go for another used one instead of a rebuit. I don't have much money right now.

Thanks for the answering my questions
Old 02-05-2013, 09:08 PM
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Sorry to hear that. That indicates the converter was installed incorrectly - it never went in all the way and the trans was forcefully bolted to the engine.
Hard to predict, but this often damages the pump halves. You might be able to get away with a used pump (about $75), but opening the trans can lead to one problem after enough, which in the end requires a complete rebuild.
Old 02-06-2013, 08:32 PM
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I guess the safe thing would be to rebuild it as you say, change the pump and the convertor if by any chance it was contaminated. This was getting expensive so I bought another used tranny, the guy seemed ok so hopefully I won't have any more issued with that and I can complete my project by beginning of summer.

Thanks!
Old 02-09-2013, 03:31 PM
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I started installing my transmission today. I read that the distance from the bellhousing to the converter pads should be 1 1/8. Should this be exactly that or is there a range? I know it could go up to 1 3/16 but I was able to only get 1 1/16. The difference is not big but I just want to make sure this is ok.
Old 02-09-2013, 04:32 PM
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Originally Posted by shrike
I started installing my transmission today. I read that the distance from the bellhousing to the converter pads should be 1 1/8. Should this be exactly that or is there a range? I know it could go up to 1 3/16 but I was able to only get 1 1/16. The difference is not big but I just want to make sure this is ok.
That sounds fine. When the converter is incorrectly hanging up on the pump rotor the distance will be more like 5/8".

Just to be safe, keep the trans mounting bolts a bit loose and check the gap between the converter pads and flexplate. There has to be some gap; I've been told a minimum of 1/16". When more than 3/16" you should add washers. I think you will find yours to be right at 1/16".

Then tighten the trans mounting bolts to 35 ft/lbs.
Since I have stripped the threads on the lower ones into the engine oilpan, I now only tighten those to 25 ft/lbs. IMHO the oilpan's metal is not as hard as the engine block.
Old 02-10-2013, 08:36 AM
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Ok thank you for the comfirmation and for the tips! I already installed the bolts but I did not have torque specs so now I can loosen them and use the torque specs you gave me
Old 02-10-2013, 10:51 AM
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I removed the inspection plug that clips at the bottom of the bellhousing to check the gap and oddly it is about .300 inch between the flexplate and the converter pads. I wil put 2 washers.By the way for anyone who would have to install washers I found it makes it much easier to install washersif you put a dab of grease on them so they stick to the flexplate



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