having problems installing my 4l60e to my ls1
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having problems installing my 4l60e to my ls1 hello
i finally got back my ls1 engine, now im putting it all together.
i installed the converter into the transmission heard the clicks, i bolted the trans to the rear of the engine, bolted the converter to the flex plate, all went in nice and smooth, but if i put a socket and wrench to spin the engine it will turn about 1 turn and then stops, i can hear it grabbing but it just wont turn??? i dont understand what is wrong or did i mess up something?
help please!
i finally got back my ls1 engine, now im putting it all together.
i installed the converter into the transmission heard the clicks, i bolted the trans to the rear of the engine, bolted the converter to the flex plate, all went in nice and smooth, but if i put a socket and wrench to spin the engine it will turn about 1 turn and then stops, i can hear it grabbing but it just wont turn??? i dont understand what is wrong or did i mess up something?
help please!
Does it truly lock up, or just gets stiff? You might be feeling compression as the motor is being turned.
If not just make sure all three converter bolts are tight..if one is backed out just a tad it can hit the block
If not just make sure all three converter bolts are tight..if one is backed out just a tad it can hit the block
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It gets stiff, i can only turn it bout 1/2 turn back or forward. I can turn the engine freely before boltin on the trans. As soon as i bolt down the trans it gets stiff after turnin it about a full turn. Idk if the trans needs to have oil or the converter do they? I spilled some out while moving them around. I have all 3 bolts thight idk i been stock with this problem for the last 3 days.
Did you check the converter clearance? Maybe the converter is not stabbed all the way? I suggest unbolting the converter to verify the clearance... Also let you spin the engine over to verify no issues there.
Chris
Chris
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The key measurement is that the converter's mounting pads should have 1-1/8" clearance to the edge of the bell housing. This is easy to measure before the trans is bolted to engine. Put a 2' straight edge over the bell housing and measure with a simple ruler.
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Does the converter seats in and locks in the 4l60e? I seated all the way in, but tue converter wont spin on the transmission itself. A friend told me it was probably the oil pu m p. H e looked in there and saw one of the two tabs inside the pump wasp broken. The ones were the converter goes in.
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Does the converter seats in and locks in the 4l60e? I seated all the way in, but tue converter wont spin on the transmission itself. A friend told me it was probably the oil pu m p. H e looked in there and saw one of the two tabs inside the pump wasp broken. The ones were the converter goes in.
IMHO the "3 click method" is useless as some people hear clicks that aren't there, I often don't hear the last click, etc.
The proper method is put a straight edge over the bell housing and measure the distance to the converter mounting pads. It should be 1-1/8" for a 4L60E (and many others). Less and you need to repeatedly pull back a bit on the converter, turn it a little and try pushing it back in until it seats further.
Also, if the distance is 1-3/16" or more, you will likely need to add spacers (matched thickness washers) between the converter and flexplate.
If you never started the engine, the damage is likely limited to the pump. A pump rebuild kit with a new rotor is about $45, but it is possible (likely?) that the pump surfaces were damaged too. If you take the trans out it is probably a 2 hour job for a trans shop plus the price of a rebuilt pump. Maybe $400.
Sorry for the bad news.
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Good advise, I've never gone just by the three click method...I'm no expert but I've never clearly heard the third click, done about 7-8 installs. I measure to the bellhousing.
I also measure the distance when bolting the converter up. On my most recent install I had to add washers to get it right. It added a lot of time to track down the right size washers/going to different stores and get proper thickness but it was worth it.
IMO Most installs can get by fine with the simple 3 click and bolt it right up, no issues, but why not spend the time to double check...if you have issues afterward at least you would know the install was measured properly.
I also measure the distance when bolting the converter up. On my most recent install I had to add washers to get it right. It added a lot of time to track down the right size washers/going to different stores and get proper thickness but it was worth it.
IMO Most installs can get by fine with the simple 3 click and bolt it right up, no issues, but why not spend the time to double check...if you have issues afterward at least you would know the install was measured properly.
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Thanks guys for all the help. A friend of mine knows a transmission mechanic that will rebuild the whole tranny for $400. I looked up a rebuild kit at monster transmissions and found one for around $500. Im thinking bout rebuilding it. Also calspeed performance sells a stage 4 tranny for $1600. Im trying to decide which way to go. What do u guys think would be best. Rebuild or new one?
I call them clunks that you have to feel as the converter seats further onto the shaft with each one. As soon as you do one successfully, you know what it feels like. I also mark the outside of the converter with a line that corresponds to the pump tang slot. You can also look at the pump itself and mark the case in the same way. Just gives you an idea where the alignment should be for the final clunk.
And absolutely, do the measurement that Ted said to do.
Ron
And absolutely, do the measurement that Ted said to do.
Ron
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the problem was the pump is broken, so im going to go the cheap way by buying a pump out of ebay, for now then i will replace the whole tranny with a high performance one.
how do i know if i mine pump has a 298mm or a 300mm shaft?
i know its a 13 vane.
how do i know if i mine pump has a 298mm or a 300mm shaft?
i know its a 13 vane.
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As far as I know, all LS compatible 4L60E are 300mm. A hole in the 12 O'clock position of the bell housing also indicates 300mm.
A 300mm input shaft looks like this:
A 298 mm shaft has a "step" to a much smaller end.
A 300mm input shaft looks like this:
A 298 mm shaft has a "step" to a much smaller end.
