SlickWillyZ28

Replaced solenoid A already still no luck. 2500 miles on a new trans.

mrvedit

Well, you diagnosed that correctly.
Are you sure you replaced the correct solenoid?
Solenoid A is the one next to the metal cover for the forward accumulator.

Sounds like it is not getting electricity. Are you getting a "Check engine light" (MIL) code? It could be a broken wire to the solenoid, but that generally gives you a MIL code.

Also, are you sure the trans is starting in 2nd? You sure it is not in limp mode and therefore only giving you 3rd gear?
Try popping off the trans connector and putting it back on.

SlickWillyZ28

I replaced the solenoid on the drivers side. I was getting a code but now I'm not. For surely second to third and a TC lock up.

SlickWillyZ28

Where is the trans connector located.

mrvedit

Yes, Solenoid A is on the driver's side.
The trans connector is on the passenger side; can be hard to reach.
Need to squeeze the sides of it and lift up; I generally reach it from behind and the squeeze points are where your thumb and forefinger would naturally be.

SlickWillyZ28

I will check for that connector tomorrow. Luckily I'm skinny and tall so that should help. I can manually drop it to first but right when I shift it does to. Every other gear selects its own point to shift.

SlickWillyZ28

Is there a fuse on this line or a "TRANS" fuse? I didn't get under it today, I dont trust jacks at all and the car is way to low to crawl under.

SlickWillyZ28

Checked that connector it went down but didn't snap. Threw a code but since it went down no code has appeared but still not first or fourth unless I manually shift it into first. What's my next step? Check to mske sure the solenoid plugged in?

mrvedit

Personally I would just plug in my HP Tuner's scanner, turn on ignition (engine off), tell the scanner to force various gears and listen for the click of the solenoids. I f you don't have such a scanner, a local trans shop can test that for you.

Otherwise, drop the pan and if you are comfortable with a volt/ohm meter, do the following:

1. Check there is +12V on one side of the solenoid when the ignition is on. (The PCM grounds the other side.)

2. Unplug the solenoid and check its resistance - it should be 20 - 40 ohms.

I don't know if both solenoids should activate when the ignition is on (engine not running) and the gear selector is moved to [D]. No harm in trying. Since both should be on for 1st gear, if you can tell that only Solenoid-B is on and not Solenoid-A, then that would be important info.

Assuming the solenoid has proper resistance, but is not activating, then the other possibilities are:
* Wiring harness in the trans
* Trans connector not plugged in all the way or broken pin
* Main wiring harness in car
* PCM failure for just that line (rare!)

Ted.

SlickWillyZ28

Wow. Sounds like a huge pain in the *** . I really need to invest in ramps too. I used a shops lift today and all I could get is the trans connecter to go down couldn't get it to click, but I couldn't pull it up either. I guess ill try my old solenoid and make sure its truely dead first .

mrvedit

Why not just take it to a local (non-chain) trans shop then?
They plug a scanner into the ODB port and run a few computer tests, listening for the solenoids, etc. I hang around my local shop regularly and hear them tell drive-in customers there is no charge for that test. Worst, it is a few dollars. Call a few and ask.

The connector can be very hard to reach in most cars; it takes a strong squeeze and firm lift to get it off as it has a sealing o-ring. A test with a scanner would determine if it is even necessary.

EDIT: My mistake - there is no o-ring on the removable part of the connector; the o-ring is on the other connector part that mounts in the trans case.

You could check your old solenoid with an ohm meter; they should feel loose or even rattle when you shake them.
I know you said driver's side, but when I get under the car I sometimes get disoriented about which side is which. Probably just me.

SlickWillyZ28

I feel like I should pay you for all your help. I just bought the car, the trans shop that built my trans refuses to touch my car. The people that put in the stall refuse to warranty anything and want 95$ am hour on the car. Being this is my first trans I've worked on I'm very hesitent. I bet that connector is still not in. I pushed it down but no click, pulled my car off the lift had first gear then lost it again. Went back put the car on jack stands pushed again still no click . I did not know it was o ringed.

SlickWillyZ28

Got my codes pulled, and pulled no transmission codes. Just an EGR code. I am stumped right now.

72blownvert

Are you sure you have no 1st & 4th? Does it feel a little sluggish on take off like your taking off in 2nd? I have run into alot of people with the same complaint and the trans actually goes from 1st to 3rd and is missing 2nd and 4th which could be a bad sunshell. Especially the fact you have no codes.

SlickWillyZ28

Well if I manually put it in first first gear carries to 40, shifts again at 85ish. If I start it in OD or D it pulls all the way to 85. Ive never been past 100 in this car.

mrvedit

Ok, that confirms you actually have 1st and 2nd.

However, now you are saying you have 1st gear if you put the shifter in [D1]. That is useful info, but I don't have the knowledge/experience to interpret it. As a wild guess, I wonder if there is a problem with the pressure switch which tells the PCM where the shifter is. (Doesn't explain problem with 1st though.)

I still suggest you take this to a trans shop; they can do much more than just scan for error codes. They can put the wheels up and force the trans through all gears, actively testing all the solenoids and more.

SlickWillyZ28

I took it to them, again want way too much money to even really look at it, but they are saying it could be the trans connector ( and i quote ) "1994 was the first year these went all electronic, so it could be finiky and not throw a code" he also said something could of flipped not allowing it first and fourth, and I brought up the concern that I can manually put it in first.

mrvedit

There is no way you could flip that connector.
Is that the only trans shop in town? They not only sound unfriendly, but might not have the scanner to quickly test it.

SlickWillyZ28

They havr a scanner but are just scammers. They were talking about something internal flipped

72blownvert

Take it to another shop & get it diagnosed by a professional. See what they say and report back. No codes usually means a mechanical problem.