4l60e problem after rebuild please help
4l60e problem after rebuild please help I need some help bad. I rebuilt my trans a few months ago and i finally had time to install it. Here's a little info of rebuild changed all seals,bushings,forward sprag,3-4 clutch pack,put shift kit in,and upgraded anything that had to do with the 3-4 clutch(this was toast when i tor it apart). Anyway got it all put back in put fluid in trans started the car put it revers and nothing. The trans thinks its in drive even when its in park. Car will not even shift into neutral. I don't think i put anything in backwards cause i used a video to do the rebuild step by step plus i had the atsg books and double checked everything as i did the rebuild. If anybody can give me any input i would greatly appreciate it. Thanks
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
If you cannot even get into park, e.g. the rear wheels are locked, then you have a problem with the shift linkage.
Also, when the rear wheels are up, they will turn even in Neutral (but not in Park) due to residual friction between the forward clutches.
Congrats on rebuilding it yourself! I'll bet its something minor and easy to fix.
Also, when the rear wheels are up, they will turn even in Neutral (but not in Park) due to residual friction between the forward clutches.
Congrats on rebuilding it yourself! I'll bet its something minor and easy to fix.
Thanks for the reply. I jacked the rear up with the wheels free and manually put trans in park and the wheels locked in park. Put in all gears and had my wife spin the wheels Nd they turned fairly easy forward but in backwards had a fair amount of resistance. I put the car back in park and hooked the cable back on. Got in the car started it gave it some gas and it didn't move,shifted into reverse and nothing it moved forward so put back into park and it did not engage park car was still in forward gear. Could the manual valve have anything to do with this? Tomorrow I'm going to drop the pan and take a look. Any thoughts? Thanks
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
The shift lever engages both the Park-lock mechanism and the manual valve. If you still had trouble getting it into Park, then it sounds like a problem with the shifter or shifter cable.
Why not just remove the cable (like to did to test Park), start the engine and manually (with vice grips?) shift it into Reverse and Drive to test the trans?
Do this first; if that works, there is no need to even drop the pan.
There is almost no way (other than forgetting to connect the manual valve link) that an assembly error would give you no-reverse and no-drive.
Insulting question, but I got'ta ask - you did check the fluid level with the engine running? You did put 11 or 12 quarts in following the complete rebuild?
Yes, the wheels will turn forward fairly easily, but have about 3 times more resistance in reverse. (Forward, almost nothing is moving in the trans, the rear sprag is free-wheeling. But in Reverse, the sprag engages and turns the entire input drum, which has residual friction, the input shaft and converter.) In short, that difference is good.
If you do discover that the manual valve link is missing, you will have to remove the valve body; there is no way to trick it in; and don't bend it! Remember the check ***** and position of the different length VB bolts!
Good luck; I'm still betting it is something simple and obvious.
Why not just remove the cable (like to did to test Park), start the engine and manually (with vice grips?) shift it into Reverse and Drive to test the trans?
Do this first; if that works, there is no need to even drop the pan.
There is almost no way (other than forgetting to connect the manual valve link) that an assembly error would give you no-reverse and no-drive.
Insulting question, but I got'ta ask - you did check the fluid level with the engine running? You did put 11 or 12 quarts in following the complete rebuild?
Yes, the wheels will turn forward fairly easily, but have about 3 times more resistance in reverse. (Forward, almost nothing is moving in the trans, the rear sprag is free-wheeling. But in Reverse, the sprag engages and turns the entire input drum, which has residual friction, the input shaft and converter.) In short, that difference is good.
If you do discover that the manual valve link is missing, you will have to remove the valve body; there is no way to trick it in; and don't bend it! Remember the check ***** and position of the different length VB bolts!
Good luck; I'm still betting it is something simple and obvious.
Mrvedit I appreciate all your input and to answer your question yes I did check the fluid with the car running. I put 12 quarts in but I think I need a little more, I put an after market deep pan that measures 3 5/8 deep plus I have a trans cooler. I was actually going to try shifting it manually from underneath next to see if it would go into reverse that way. I'm going to have my wife get in and hold the break while I do this just in case. I have my car up on my home made ramps that I made to get the car high enough to pull the trans. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks again
Well I got it fixed. I tried manually shifting it from under the car and it didn't work so I dropped the pan and the manual valve linkage was hanging. So I dropped the valve body and hooked up the linkage. Then I put everything back together filled it with fluid fired it up and put it in reverse and it shifted. Tomorrow I will take out for a spin and see if my rebuild was successful. Thanks for all your input
