Performabuilt vs Finish line
My choice is FLT. They have built me 2 trans. Both with the Billet Steel input and output shafts. I have only installed one of them and that is in my wifes 07 TB SS. That trans is AWESOME. The other trans will be going in shortly in my 87 Buick T-Type with an LS376/480 and Moser M9 rear. I have every bit of confidence with FLT. Talk to Andy. He will take care of you. GREAT GUY. Rich
I would run a PerformaBuilt lv2 had we have one in our camaro I ran it for 2years in w over 150 10lb bottles w my 408 motor dp. Now the trans is 5 years old and we still race it w no issues. They are the best trans out there. I just intalled one in my dads 67 firebird w old school 455 motor. Frank is the best at helping and customer service give hi m a shout.
I voted FLT. Infact Chuck is building my trans as we speak, and I can't wait to get it in the car. I went with the level 4 with future plans in mind. Great guy, he'll tell you exactly what you'll need as long as you're honest Abbott how much power you plan on putting through it.
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FLT or Rpm, spend the money for either and you will thank yourself. I have an FLT and love it. Chuck is an awesome guy and took the extra mile in helping me out when I got my trans from him last year. For my car I got the lvl 3 which is fine (bolt ons/stall) and he said if I ever wanted to upgrade it wont cost much.
I cant speak about personal experience with performabuilt, but I hear more bad things than good. people with boltons and making less power then what their trans can hold are breaking them or people with big hp are keeping them together. In my case i didnt want to risk having to take my trans out if it were to fail. From what I read all the time, Frank at PB is a great guy and is willing to help, but I just didnt want to risk anything going out on me.
Also, FLT will send you a complete trans unlike performabuit so you wont have to swap bell/tail housings.
I cant speak about personal experience with performabuilt, but I hear more bad things than good. people with boltons and making less power then what their trans can hold are breaking them or people with big hp are keeping them together. In my case i didnt want to risk having to take my trans out if it were to fail. From what I read all the time, Frank at PB is a great guy and is willing to help, but I just didnt want to risk anything going out on me.
Also, FLT will send you a complete trans unlike performabuit so you wont have to swap bell/tail housings.
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we have actually had the performa lv2 & FLT lvl4 in the same car.
THE FLT transmission WAS FLAWLESS!
also had a yank pt4000 in it that worked great also!
GOOD LUCK & i hope to see you enjoying your car soon.........!
THE FLT transmission WAS FLAWLESS!
also had a yank pt4000 in it that worked great also!
GOOD LUCK & i hope to see you enjoying your car soon.........!
iv heard bad things about all of them. cant make everyone happy and no one is prefect. **** happens
just going to have to bite the bullet and pick one. if i was you i would go 80 and be done with it.
just going to have to bite the bullet and pick one. if i was you i would go 80 and be done with it.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 529
From: Ann Arbor, MI
I have my own theory (technically a hypothesis due to little data)...
Many (most?) of the failures of transmissions supplied by FLT, RPM, Performabuilt and perhaps even MadDog, are due to the mistakes and shortcuts taken by the purchaser/installer. Primarily:
* Not replacing the converter or at least sending it out to be opened and rebuilt.
* Not replacing the cooler.
Instead, to save money, the purchaser/installer just tries to flush them, which leaves metal fragments in them, which later get loose and ruin the new trans.
This failure-causing installation shortcut is more likely to occur when someone is on a tight budge and purchases from one of the less expensive sources such as MadDog or even Performabuilt. People that have more money to spend on a high end FLT or RPM are more likely to replace the converter and the cooler during installation.
If I were selling transmission, I would insist on proof of installing a new (or rebuilt) converter and a new cooler before I would even offer a warranty. This is not a radical concept - when you buy a new/rebuilt AC compressor, you have to buy a new drier to receive a warranty.
Again, this is just my hypothesis. I primarily want to emphasize the importance of not reusing the older converter and cooler when replacing the trans. Its a $250 shortcut that is very likely to cost you $2000+ and endless aggravation.
Ok, I done now. Thanks for reading.
Many (most?) of the failures of transmissions supplied by FLT, RPM, Performabuilt and perhaps even MadDog, are due to the mistakes and shortcuts taken by the purchaser/installer. Primarily:
* Not replacing the converter or at least sending it out to be opened and rebuilt.
* Not replacing the cooler.
Instead, to save money, the purchaser/installer just tries to flush them, which leaves metal fragments in them, which later get loose and ruin the new trans.
This failure-causing installation shortcut is more likely to occur when someone is on a tight budge and purchases from one of the less expensive sources such as MadDog or even Performabuilt. People that have more money to spend on a high end FLT or RPM are more likely to replace the converter and the cooler during installation.
If I were selling transmission, I would insist on proof of installing a new (or rebuilt) converter and a new cooler before I would even offer a warranty. This is not a radical concept - when you buy a new/rebuilt AC compressor, you have to buy a new drier to receive a warranty.
Again, this is just my hypothesis. I primarily want to emphasize the importance of not reusing the older converter and cooler when replacing the trans. Its a $250 shortcut that is very likely to cost you $2000+ and endless aggravation.
Ok, I done now. Thanks for reading.
I have my own theory (technically a hypothesis due to little data)...
Many (most?) of the failures of transmissions supplied by FLT, RPM, Performabuilt and perhaps even MadDog, are due to the mistakes and shortcuts taken by the purchaser/installer. Primarily:
* Not replacing the converter or at least sending it out to be opened and rebuilt.
* Not replacing the cooler.
Instead, to save money, the purchaser/installer just tries to flush them, which leaves metal fragments in them, which later get loose and ruin the new trans.
This failure-causing installation shortcut is more likely to occur when someone is on a tight budge and purchases from one of the less expensive sources such as MadDog or even Performabuilt. People that have more money to spend on a high end FLT or RPM are more likely to replace the converter and the cooler during installation.
If I were selling transmission, I would insist on proof of installing a new (or rebuilt) converter and a new cooler before I would even offer a warranty. This is not a radical concept - when you buy a new/rebuilt AC compressor, you have to buy a new drier to receive a warranty.
Again, this is just my hypothesis. I primarily want to emphasize the importance of not reusing the older converter and cooler when replacing the trans. Its a $250 shortcut that is very likely to cost you $2000+ and endless aggravation.
Ok, I done now. Thanks for reading.
Many (most?) of the failures of transmissions supplied by FLT, RPM, Performabuilt and perhaps even MadDog, are due to the mistakes and shortcuts taken by the purchaser/installer. Primarily:
* Not replacing the converter or at least sending it out to be opened and rebuilt.
* Not replacing the cooler.
Instead, to save money, the purchaser/installer just tries to flush them, which leaves metal fragments in them, which later get loose and ruin the new trans.
This failure-causing installation shortcut is more likely to occur when someone is on a tight budge and purchases from one of the less expensive sources such as MadDog or even Performabuilt. People that have more money to spend on a high end FLT or RPM are more likely to replace the converter and the cooler during installation.
If I were selling transmission, I would insist on proof of installing a new (or rebuilt) converter and a new cooler before I would even offer a warranty. This is not a radical concept - when you buy a new/rebuilt AC compressor, you have to buy a new drier to receive a warranty.
Again, this is just my hypothesis. I primarily want to emphasize the importance of not reusing the older converter and cooler when replacing the trans. Its a $250 shortcut that is very likely to cost you $2000+ and endless aggravation.
Ok, I done now. Thanks for reading.
We just got done dealing with a 4L80E that had a "flushed" converter installed. We ended up having to replace the pump due to sand like contamination that had destroyed the bore for the pressure regulator valve and the PR valve itself. Plus a full rebuild, etc. Nightmare due to negligence.