Question Removing a 4L60e from a 2002 Z28
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Teching In
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Question Removing a 4L60e from a 2002 Z28 Do I need to remove the L and R cats to remove a 4L60E from a stock 2002 Z28? The manual says I have to remove them, but it looks like if I can slide the transmission back enough, I can clear the cats. The reason I do not want to remove the cats is that it is all rusted and I know I will snap the bolts. This is my daily drive so I cannot have a lot of down time. In addition, if I snap the bolts that hold the cat to the exhaust manifold, I will most like need to remove the exhaust manifold to remove the broken bolts, which will create added time and expense. I already have to cut my Y-pipe because it is welded on. This is turning into more of a project than I bargain for. Any recommendation/experience would be appreciated.
John
John
I dont know with the oe stuff, but with lts and high flows I unbolted the headers from the heads...and it barely fit, actually slightly dented a primary in the process. You could give it a shot, but dont be surprised if you have to put it back in temporarily and pull the cats.
I would also recommed you pb blaster the dowels right when you start. You need about 3ft+ of extensions and a swivel head 13mm socket is well worth the cost. You can get a set of them from lowes for like $15 if you dont have already...shorter than a socket + a swivel...and you need the room. The 10 o clock bolt isthe worst, right onthe firewall. You can see the bolts pretty well if you rest your head right on the pinion yoke. GL.
I would also recommed you pb blaster the dowels right when you start. You need about 3ft+ of extensions and a swivel head 13mm socket is well worth the cost. You can get a set of them from lowes for like $15 if you dont have already...shorter than a socket + a swivel...and you need the room. The 10 o clock bolt isthe worst, right onthe firewall. You can see the bolts pretty well if you rest your head right on the pinion yoke. GL.
...and be damn sure you read up on seating the converter in the pump when you reinstall. You need 3 clunks and the pads should be (double check me on this) something like 1.75. Inches deep from the front of the bellhousing. People cost themselves a lot of time and money by missing that step. PM if you need anything, just did it 2 weeks ago.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
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I was hoping someone has experience dropping the transmission with a stock exhaust set up and could tell me if I have to absolutely remove the cats. Those rusty bolts scare me. Too many bad experience and from what I read odds are very high that I will break off those studs and replacing those studs will be a significant challenge. I will PB them for at least a week, but I am not optimistic.
John
John
Should come right out, just dont forget to unbolt the dipstick. I pulled mine down for a converter swap with no issues with stock suspension. I even left the lines on the trans end because I did not have the right line release tool. I unbolted them from the radiator and the lower alternator brace.
Lots of room, just a PITA on a couple of the upper bolts. Will test your patience for sure.
Lots of room, just a PITA on a couple of the upper bolts. Will test your patience for sure.
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
...and be damn sure you read up on seating the converter in the pump when you reinstall. You need 3 clunks and the pads should be (double check me on this) something like 1.75. Inches deep from the front of the bellhousing. People cost themselves a lot of time and money by missing that step. PM if you need anything, just did it 2 weeks ago.
However the distance from the converter pads to a straight edge over the bellhousing is 1.125 (1-1/8"). Anything under 1" indicates the converter is not fully seated and will ruin pump if assembled that way.
