4l60e rebuild problems
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 116
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From: FLorida
4l60e rebuild problems I havent been on the board in a while. I know the vehicle isnt a fbody but it still got a 4l60e in it. its a 96 blazer 4x4 with the 4.3 in it. The original problem with the vehicle was 3rd gear was burnt and also bad clutch return springs. I had my tranny tech at the dealership go through the tranny and replace what was needed. I got the tranny back in the vehicle and topped off with fluid but the problem now is that I have no reverse or manual low.
If you put the selector in drive than it shifts as it designed but when I go into rev, it acts like another clutch is being applied. When going into rev you can feel it go into gear and rpm drop but nothing happens and the rear tires cant be even turned by hand (feel locked up). When you go into manual low the vehicle jumps and surges and does all type of weird stuff. So just wondering if any of you guys have encountered this problem and know of remedy.
Thanks in advance
Jhery
If you put the selector in drive than it shifts as it designed but when I go into rev, it acts like another clutch is being applied. When going into rev you can feel it go into gear and rpm drop but nothing happens and the rear tires cant be even turned by hand (feel locked up). When you go into manual low the vehicle jumps and surges and does all type of weird stuff. So just wondering if any of you guys have encountered this problem and know of remedy.
Thanks in advance
Jhery
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Sounds like either the low/reserve roller clutch (sprag) was installed upside down or the low/reverse clutch is binding. (I.e the trans was assembled incorrectly) I don't know the symptoms in this area well and have therefore asked Carlsonauto to chime in, or perhaps one of the other builders can confirm or correct me.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
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I would look at the valve body/vb gaskets.. I would say fluid is going where it shouldnt be... The low roller clutch is a roller therfore cannot be installed backwards like an actual sprag can. Also crossleaks in the pump can do weird things with no explanation.... Was the stator support changed?? Maybe it was replaced with the incorrect one?? just a few thoughts..........
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
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From: Newman Lake, WA
Yeah, you definitely have a cross-feed of some sort. In reverse, if any elements other than the low/reverse and the reverse input clutches are engaged, you'll have a tie-up. This means that if any one of the overrun, forward or 3-4 clutches, or the band are engaged in reverse, it will lock the gear train.
As was mentioned, check the valve body gaskets and check the pump halves for a misfit of any sort. Check the sealing rings on the input shaft, especially the one furthest outboard. This seals between the overrun circuit and converter release oil. A leak here will back feed and apply the overrun clutch causing a tie up.
Other than that, he'll just have to retrace his steps until he finds it...
As was mentioned, check the valve body gaskets and check the pump halves for a misfit of any sort. Check the sealing rings on the input shaft, especially the one furthest outboard. This seals between the overrun circuit and converter release oil. A leak here will back feed and apply the overrun clutch causing a tie up.
Other than that, he'll just have to retrace his steps until he finds it...
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 116
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From: FLorida
ight, he was thinking it was something with the valvebody bc the gasket pretty much fell apart upon disassembly. so hopefully the tranny doesnt have to come out but we will see. thanks for help.
anyone have a clutch application chart?
anyone have a clutch application chart?
Last edited by musclemonte; May 28, 2013 at 09:05 PM.
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Here is a clutch application chart:
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=259692
CarlsonAuto and Dynamic396: Thank you for correcting me and the better advice.
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=259692
CarlsonAuto and Dynamic396: Thank you for correcting me and the better advice.
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Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 7,323
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
A nice diagram of the valve body is Figure 30, Page 31 of the 4l60E Technicians Guide; Here is an online version of the guide:
http://www.grail-ss.com/GRAIL%20Webs...ETechGuide.pdf
I just took a quick photo of that image; not super clear, but here it is:
http://www.grail-ss.com/GRAIL%20Webs...ETechGuide.pdf
I just took a quick photo of that image; not super clear, but here it is:
Last edited by mrvedit; May 31, 2013 at 08:02 AM. Reason: Added photo
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Dec 2008
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From: Westbank of N.O.
Don't waste your time looking at solenoids, instead, I would pull the pump, input and rev drums out, inspect the front portion of the input drum where the input shaft goes....look for a crack or cracks below or around the torrington that rides between the input and rev drum.
Did u by any chance drop the trans while removing-installing? This will crack the input from the jolt and weight of the convertor and u will have EXACTLY this problem. Been about 15-20 years, but I have seen this TWICE, both times same cause......
I would stack up the input, reverse, and pump to pressure check thru the pump housing. Look for forward or overrun clutches appying when the rev circut is pressured up....
Did u by any chance drop the trans while removing-installing? This will crack the input from the jolt and weight of the convertor and u will have EXACTLY this problem. Been about 15-20 years, but I have seen this TWICE, both times same cause......
I would stack up the input, reverse, and pump to pressure check thru the pump housing. Look for forward or overrun clutches appying when the rev circut is pressured up....
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
All good, accurate advice JUNK, but I don't think the OP has the trans out of the car yet. He might as well ensure there are no cross-leaks in the valve body before removing the trans and following your excellent advice.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: FLorida
i was told that it looked like the 3-2 control valve was sticking and the dirt was on the valve body gasket. No the tranny wasnt dropped when I took it out, I was very careful not too since I was trying to reduce the risk of damage to hard parts.
JUNK, much appericated with all of the advice, i will relay the info to my tranny builder. He been a tranny tech for over 30 years but he has limited knowledge on chevy since I work at a ford dealership.
MRVEDIT. Thanks alot for the file, that should greatly help figure out what is going on in the tranny
JUNK, much appericated with all of the advice, i will relay the info to my tranny builder. He been a tranny tech for over 30 years but he has limited knowledge on chevy since I work at a ford dealership.
MRVEDIT. Thanks alot for the file, that should greatly help figure out what is going on in the tranny
Moderator
Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
This will chew up the sun shell and flood every clutch, orifice and valve with metal shavings. He owes you a complete rebuild.
On The Tree
Joined: May 2013
Posts: 189
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From: Newman Lake, WA
Yeah, that's a seriously rookie mistake. There are 3 bolts that are longer than the rest. They are easy to identify (other than their length) by their 8mm heads. These bolts MUST go in the correct places or this will happen.
You also mentioned earlier about a stuck valve and dirt in the VB gaskets. I'd find another builder...
Oh well, at least that explains why your reverse was bound up.
You also mentioned earlier about a stuck valve and dirt in the VB gaskets. I'd find another builder...
Oh well, at least that explains why your reverse was bound up.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 116
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From: FLorida
well I checked all of the internals of the tranny before it went back together and it was all in good shape. no metal shaving In the pan or anything. so I'll prob put it back in tomorrow or the next day and see how it goes