I had to notch my bmr crossmember alot, it hit the pan!

 

thats what i heard but then i heard that BMR make a newer one that didnt need that done to it so im not sure if the problem has been fixed yet or not.

 

Figures after i get mine lol, i also had to make the bolt holes longer because the tq arm mount wasnt lineing up

 

When did you order yours?

 

My BMR crossmember will be here today from Summit. I hope I don't have to modify or notch anything. That would defeat the purpose of spending that much money on something I would have to modify. I'm going to try to get everything ready for the swap this weekend. So next week when I do the swap I'll let you know if it bolted right up.

 

Mine fit perfect without any mods.

 

Mine did as well.

 

I had to elongate the holes in my BMR crossmember slightly to get it to clear the back edge of the tranny pan. Not a big deal.

GM Performance Parts 4L85E Supermatic Tranny

BMR crossmember

TCI 399753 flexplate

FTI 3800 nitrous converter

B&M Hi-Tek cooler w/fan 70297-braided stainless hoses & AN fittings

Sphon "Top-Gun" seemless chromoly driveshaft w/ Strange chromoly slip yoke

"slow-67" relay mod- 98 PCM- HP-Tuners

 

Got the tranny cooler mounted, cooler lines ran, shifter plate fabricated and mounted, shifter mounted, pedals swapped and new MWC front bumper support done.

What else goes on the shifter? Shouldn't there be a neutral safety switch? If there is no pigtail for it, how would I hook it up so the pcm knows what gear I'm in?

Still trying to figure out the switched on the pedals too. What do I do with my clutch switches? Or will they just be tuned out?

 

All this progress and no pictures?!?! Haha

I picked up a piece of an A4 trans tunnel I will install in my car. I also got a stock A4 shifter, as well as the wiring pigtail for it. My plans were to tie in the NSS and reverse lights into the A4 pigtail. I think one of the sticky's at the top of the auto trans forum has the wiring in it. It's been a while since I've looked at it.

As far as the pedal switches, you should have two currently, and only need to use one. For the clutch pedal switch, just tape it so that the switch is activated. The brake pedal switch should swap over to the A4 pedals no?

 

Here are some wiring links.....

https://ls1tech.com/forums/4191035-post8.html
"As you can see the plugs are wired a little different they are labled as follows

factory M6 side..................factory A4 side
A:tan----------A:tan
B:grey---------B:empty I think grey was for the skip shift
C:pink---------C:pink
D:purple-------D:purple
E:blk/wht------E:blk/wht
F:org/blk-------F:empty needed to move H up here
G:brown-------G:empty is for the back up lights
H:green--------H:org/blk is for for reverse lights
J:ylw/blk-------J:ylw/blk
K:grn/wht------K:grn/wht

now to figure out where the wiring goes since theres no park lockout sw wiring the factory clutch start wirng needs to be jumped I THINK. I hope this helps some people as I"m trying to get it right will post more with time.
The M6 is the dash wiring which will stay and adapting a A4 harness to it which seems easy so for as its just requires moving one wire and rerouting some others."

https://ls1tech.com/forums/5352838-post16.html
"Wiring the shiftlock control and PNP switch
You are going to need to run a total of 8 wires for the 2 switches, 6 for the PNP and 2 for the shiftlock. The connector pigtails you bought from the dealer for an exceptionally high price should be labeled A-F on the PNP and A-B on the shiftlock the wires go to the following places
PNP switch:
A. Shift Lock control circuit - Black/white wire from shiftlock control solenoid (Connector C200, Pin E)
B. PCM - Orange/Black wire from the white connector (Connector C220, pin H)on the end of the engine harness (the one that is inside the car on the passenger side under the kick panel)
C. Back up Lights - Brown wire, Same connector as above (Connector C220, Pin G)
D. Ground - Light green wire in Connector C400, Pin F (not sure where this one is but I can look it up) or to a chassis ground.
E. Start circuit - Clutch override switch (on the pedal), Purple/white wire
F. Start Circuit - Clutch Override switch (on the pedal), Dark green wire

Shiftlock Control:
A. PNP switch, Pin A
B. Brake light switch

Testing your new transmission

Testing the Brake lights: Step on the brake, they should illuminate, if they don’t the switch may be unplugged or out of adjustment. To adjust it just turn it in it’s threads until it works

Testing the PNP Switch and shiftlock control: With the car SHUT OFF Put the car in reverse and you should get your reverse lights. Next put it back in park, put on the E-brake and block the drive wheels, just in case. Then start the car (if you haven’t added fluid to the transmission yet now is the time). It should start up and not try to move. Now with the brakes off try and move the shifter (be careful because if the shiftlock doesn’t engage you are going to end up in reverse) if it doesn’t move then the shiftlock is working. Now step on the brake and the shiftlock should disengage allowing you to put it in gear. If it works put the car in park and shut it off. If it didn’t work check the 2 wires and repair accordingly. If it did work, with the car off put it in any gear and bump the ignition. The car SHOULD NOT START, if it tries to start troubleshoot the appropriate wires until it works right."

 

I have some pictures. lol Was so busy trying to get it done I didn't take as many as I wanted.

For my tunnel plate I used 1/8" steel (had some laying around), traced the shifter boot, cut it out, drilled and screwed it down and painted it.

Getting the M6 pedals out was a PITA. The A4 pedals went in pretty quickly.

I have the Speartech harness. I know I have to tape the one that controls C/C down. I can tie the PRNDL into the clutch switch and start it, but it'll start in any gear if I do. Not what I want.

 

Holy **** !!! It reads like stereo instructions.

So I'll start with a NSS and a pigtail and try to figure out what the hell that says/means and do it.

Thanks for the info:

 

The pigtail is a NSS I think. Its a longer connector on the side of the shifter. I have all that stuff at home, remind me later and I'll snap a photo.

 

Reminding you to snap a pic. I have the pigtail coming for the NSS.

 

Here you go. My plan was to use that switch and tie in the reverse lights and NSS.

 

Thanks for the pics. I'm not going to use the shift lockout so that eliminates 2 wires.

I finally buttoned up the pedals, switches and wiring that got a little screwed when I pulled the M6 pedals out. I also got my n2o wiring moved since all of my switches are in a different place now.

I could only find a grey console at the time so I painted it with the plastic paint and got everything to fit. Now it at least looks like a factory A4 car.

I'll just make a harness and pin it to the pcm.

 

I bought a bunch of SEM Color Coat paint/dye in Landau Black. Guys have said its a decent match to the "ebony" interior color. My interior is charcoal and tan, my plan is to have it all be black and tan. The A4 upper console I picked up is ebony, so I am good to go there.

I will be making my own harness for the trans. I will be following Slow67's method of wiring so my 1998 PCM can control the 80e. As far as the shifter, I only plan to hook up the wires for the NSS and reverse lights.

I'm jealous you are in the middle of the swap. I wish I had all my parts! Haha

 

So far it's been a lot of work and a decent amount of money and I got the tranny for free.

I'm still waiting on the converter and flexplate (coming from Circle D), PCM tune (Frost), tranny yoke (Jakes), the u-joint (Summit), the cage (Jegs), NSS pigtail (Amazon) and I still have to get converter bolts, flexplate bolts and a NSS.


Some slightly better pics

 

Poke around the classifieds for a Camaro auto shift ****. I think it looks better IMO.......