yank 3800 = new tune?
So I can drive the 45min home and pull the pcm to send in for a tune. Only mods are headers and a lid so dont think I need a full dyno tune just a flash.
The kill the trans was more of a heating up the fluid question.
The kill the trans was more of a heating up the fluid question.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
It will be fine. I drove my 3200 home from a buddy's house with no issue when I installed it years and years ago. One thing you may encounter......If, directly after a light throttle shift, you give it gas and cause the engine to flare up on the converter, you may set a fault code, get an SES light, and send the trans into a "limp" mode for lack of a better term. Example = 1st gear light throttle 2500rpms at 10mph and 2500rpms the trans shifts to second but rpms will stay about 2500, if directly after that shift you apply throttle and rpms raise to say 3200 then the computer deducts that the shift never actually happened. It did not adequately see an rpm drop to confirm the shift took place. This would ALWAYS set mine into limp mode. Limp mode reduces transmission function to 2nd and 3rd gears only. No 1st, 4th, or converter lock-up. You likely will not run into this problem though. Key off and back on resets it.
I've never had a problem running an FTI 3600 stall untuned. All you're really doing in the tune anyway is setting the shift/lockup points slightly different to make the driveability of the stall better. That's all. Nothing in the tune otherwise will need to be changed, like timing or fueling.
And I wouldn't really think a mail order tune would be that great for this mod. Fine-tuning a stall takes a lot of trial and error on the street to find the best shiftpoints for your driving style.
And I wouldn't really think a mail order tune would be that great for this mod. Fine-tuning a stall takes a lot of trial and error on the street to find the best shiftpoints for your driving style.
TECH Resident
Joined: Jan 2009
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From: In the moment...
I've never had a problem running an FTI 3600 stall untuned. All you're really doing in the tune anyway is setting the shift/lockup points slightly different to make the driveability of the stall better. That's all. Nothing in the tune otherwise will need to be changed, like timing or fueling.
And I wouldn't really think a mail order tune would be that great for this mod. Fine-tuning a stall takes a lot of trial and error on the street to find the best shiftpoints for your driving style.
And I wouldn't really think a mail order tune would be that great for this mod. Fine-tuning a stall takes a lot of trial and error on the street to find the best shiftpoints for your driving style.
So after what mods SHOULD I get a tune? I also have LTs and an ORY in my bedroom ready to go but Im assuming after those it would be almost necessary since Im going catless.
So after what mods SHOULD I get a tune?
Headers, intake manifold, stall, gears, cam, heads you should be getting tuned for in order to get the most out of those mods and have the car drive nicely.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Might be dealing with misfire issues. You should read up on that as lots of aftermarket converters cause a false miss, and during a misfire the computer......dun dun dun, unlocks the converter.
