A4 problems again...
Are there any other periphery issues that could be affecting the shifting of the A4? A vaccum line, an adjustment, a valve, a solenoid, or something that won't cost $3K? Any input you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!
A defective Pressure Control solenoid (EPC) is about the only easy-to-replace item that could cause such slippage. I know builder Dynamic396 often replaces it before pulling a customer's trans for rebuild. Perhaps a 5% chance that it might extend the life of your trans, but once the 3/4 clutch starts to slip, it wears out quickly.
Similarly, a boost valve like the Sonnax 4l60E-LB1 might reduce slippage and extend the life (at easy throttle) a bit, but you are probably looking at a rebuild in the very near future.
Sponsors FLT and Performabuilt sell a "Level 2" trans for under $1800 with shipping. (Not sure what sponsor RPM and Jake Performance sell; check them too.)
Last edited by myk; Jul 2, 2013 at 07:43 PM.
My sensible side wants to just roll this car off of a cliff but I've always loved this stupid car, lol...
The proper rebuild will use 7 or 8 quality frictions, tighter clearance in the clutch pack, a drilled separator plate to apply it more quickly and a boost valve to increase line pressure across the board and make more maximum pressure available at WOT.
Generally with a performance rebuild, a 4L60E should last 3+ years at 500HP with regular track runs and spirited everyday DD.
Switching to a 4L80E is not trivial. There are many threads here on the subject. It can easily cost over $3000 including the $1000 converter. Yes, the PCM needs a different program and tuning. Trans cable mods, etc. Its all well documented here, but certainly not "bolt in".
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The proper rebuild will use 7 or 8 quality frictions, tighter clearance in the clutch pack, a drilled separator plate to apply it more quickly and a boost valve to increase line pressure across the board and make more maximum pressure available at WOT.
Generally with a performance rebuild, a 4L60E should last 3+ years at 500HP with regular track runs and spirited everyday DD.
Switching to a 4L80E is not trivial. There are many threads here on the subject. It can easily cost over $3000 including the $1000 converter. Yes, the PCM needs a different program and tuning. Trans cable mods, etc. Its all well documented here, but certainly not "bolt in".
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The proper rebuild will use 7 or 8 quality frictions, tighter clearance in the clutch pack, a drilled separator plate to apply it more quickly and a boost valve to increase line pressure across the board and make more maximum pressure available at WOT.
Generally with a performance rebuild, a 4L60E should last 3+ years at 500HP with regular track runs and spirited everyday DD.
Switching to a 4L80E is not trivial. There are many threads here on the subject. It can easily cost over $3000 including the $1000 converter. Yes, the PCM needs a different program and tuning. Trans cable mods, etc. Its all well documented here, but certainly not "bolt in".
However, it only costs $30 to replace both and they should be replaced during a rebuild anyway.







