M6 - 4L80E swap and no start
M6 - 4L80E swap and no start I used the Speartech harness for the 80e. I got finished with the install and attempted to start the car. Turned the key and......nothing, nada.
Everything with the tranny install was pretty straight forward. Of course I had to make brackets, modify ****, beat the hell out of the tunnel for the plug to plug in but the converter and flexplate and tranny mounted perfectly and the BMR crossmember/torque arm mount fit like a glove.
Ideas?? Clutch switches maybe? There were two of them. A black one and a white one. I'm not running a PRNDL switch. Steve @ Frost said it wasn't necessary.
Everything with the tranny install was pretty straight forward. Of course I had to make brackets, modify ****, beat the hell out of the tunnel for the plug to plug in but the converter and flexplate and tranny mounted perfectly and the BMR crossmember/torque arm mount fit like a glove.
Ideas?? Clutch switches maybe? There were two of them. A black one and a white one. I'm not running a PRNDL switch. Steve @ Frost said it wasn't necessary.
Wait a minute here... the car won't start at all? Tell us what all you've checked... battery is good right? Does the motor try to turn over or the starter engage at all? What you changed by swapping transmissions shouldn't have anything to do with it starting or not. With an auto, even if you unplug the transmission altogether, it should still start. I can only assume it would have to be something to do with the clutch switch since you went from an M6. Your PCM has been tuned for the change too, yes?
Wait a minute here... the car won't start at all? Tell us what all you've checked... battery is good right? Does the motor try to turn over or the starter engage at all? What you changed by swapping transmissions shouldn't have anything to do with it starting or not. With an auto, even if you unplug the transmission altogether, it should still start. I can only assume it would have to be something to do with the clutch switch since you went from an M6. Your PCM has been tuned for the change too, yes?
The PCM has been tuned for the auto as well.
The battery tested good on the Midtronix.
I did pull the starter to do the torque converter bolts but I didn't disconnect it when I pulled it.
Oh, and now only one headlight comes up. Both worked before the swap and probably aren't related to each other I just thought that was weird.
I would have to guess it has something to do with the clutch switch. It almost acts like the PCM doesn't realize the car is in park, so the neutral safety switch is coming into play. Interior lights and all that jazz are coming on right?
All lights come on including dash lights but as soon as you turn the key....nothing. Then my gauges do a kind of reset thing which they have never done before. They go all the way up and back really quick.
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Like others have said.....
-Check all fuses
-Confirm battery has a good charge- Pep Boys or similar will test for free
-Make sure the clutch switch is depressed or bypassed
-Make sure connections to the starter are proper and check flexplate alignment
Beyond that, I think the only purpose of the wires to the PCM is to control the trans itself
-Check all fuses
-Confirm battery has a good charge- Pep Boys or similar will test for free
-Make sure the clutch switch is depressed or bypassed
-Make sure connections to the starter are proper and check flexplate alignment
Beyond that, I think the only purpose of the wires to the PCM is to control the trans itself
The battery checked good and was disconnected the whole time I was swapping things over so there shouldn't have been any issues but I'll check the fuses again this afternoon.
The only wiring done was for the Speartech harness which is pretty straight forward and really only deals with the tranny.
The starter wires are connected correctly and I jumped the starter last night with it off the car and it worked fine.
Ok. So there were 2 switches on the clutch pedal. A black one and a white one. I have the white switch, which looks like the same switch on the brake pedal, hooked up and wire tied (I believe this is the one for cruise control). The black switch, which is rectangular, and was mounted on the side of the clutch pedal is plugged in. Is this one normally open or normally closed. I assumed it was normally open.
The only wiring done was for the Speartech harness which is pretty straight forward and really only deals with the tranny.
The starter wires are connected correctly and I jumped the starter last night with it off the car and it worked fine.
Ok. So there were 2 switches on the clutch pedal. A black one and a white one. I have the white switch, which looks like the same switch on the brake pedal, hooked up and wire tied (I believe this is the one for cruise control). The black switch, which is rectangular, and was mounted on the side of the clutch pedal is plugged in. Is this one normally open or normally closed. I assumed it was normally open.
It's alive!!!!! I haven't driven it yet because I'm waiting on another shifter cable since mine got broken during the install but it's running now.
It was the clutch switch. Thanks guys.
It was the clutch switch. Thanks guys.
I finally got to drive it yesterday afternoon. There are a few issues.
The tach and speedo are both reading at the same time. Tach goes up, speedo goes up in neutral and while in gear.
The torque converter isn't locking up (possibly from the same issue with the tach and speedo).
Tune is set to shift at 6k but it hit the limiter hard twice yesterday. Shifts are pretty tame and I put the Transgo shift kit in it and the tune raised the line pressures. It should yank your neck off when it shifts but it doesn't.
**** now that I think about it my VSS sensor plugs could be reversed causing all these problems.
But.... it finally moves. That's a plus and no codes.
The tach and speedo are both reading at the same time. Tach goes up, speedo goes up in neutral and while in gear.
The torque converter isn't locking up (possibly from the same issue with the tach and speedo).
Tune is set to shift at 6k but it hit the limiter hard twice yesterday. Shifts are pretty tame and I put the Transgo shift kit in it and the tune raised the line pressures. It should yank your neck off when it shifts but it doesn't.
**** now that I think about it my VSS sensor plugs could be reversed causing all these problems.
But.... it finally moves. That's a plus and no codes.
Last edited by MFJ; Jul 19, 2013 at 08:42 AM.
Yep, problem solved. The VSS plugs were transposed (I didn't hook them up). I now have TC lockup, a working speedo and a loud *** car. Gonna pull a couple of quarts of tranny fluid back out of it today and drive it again.
Because as of now I'm not too impressed by it. I'm still banging the rev limiter even though the tune was supposed to shift at 6k. I mean hitting it hard and the shifts aren't that firm either.
Because as of now I'm not too impressed by it. I'm still banging the rev limiter even though the tune was supposed to shift at 6k. I mean hitting it hard and the shifts aren't that firm either.
