t56 swapped to 4l80e in my S10, now theres trans issues.
#24
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Im using 37391, its without a bypass since I dont drive it when its cold
http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/ca...AX-cooler.html
The cooler is huge and takes up most of the radiator and should handle just about anything. I'll take the rear line off the trans and start it and see if its flowing through it. I had the line coming off the front of the trans removed from the cooler to reroute it yesterday, Started it for a second to see if fluid was pumping through it and it was so fluid is getting to the cooler. Cooler, lines, transmission and convertor are all brand new. Idle speed is 750.
http://www.transmissioncoolers.us/ca...AX-cooler.html
The cooler is huge and takes up most of the radiator and should handle just about anything. I'll take the rear line off the trans and start it and see if its flowing through it. I had the line coming off the front of the trans removed from the cooler to reroute it yesterday, Started it for a second to see if fluid was pumping through it and it was so fluid is getting to the cooler. Cooler, lines, transmission and convertor are all brand new. Idle speed is 750.
#25
750 idle speed should be plenty but try bumping it up 100 rpm after checking the cooler.
We had very good cooler flow on the dyno with your unit. I remember it very well because we had to work on it to get the cooler flow, several times.
We had very good cooler flow on the dyno with your unit. I remember it very well because we had to work on it to get the cooler flow, several times.
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Removed the line on the outlet of the cooler. Fired it up fluid was pumping and spraying out of the cooler with tons of flow. Hooked the line back up removed that line from the rear port on the trans started it up and again it sprayed and pumped just fine. Filling up my drain pan quickly. Reattached the line refilled the trans took for it for a drive around the block twice. Reverse works fine while cold went around once (1.5 miles) trans is up to 130* go around again and it lugs and stalls in drive around 150* pull into my drive at 160* let it idle and feel the cooler. inlet edge/tube thing that the fins are attached to is warm but not bad. fins and outlet tube is ice cold, pretty cold to the touch. Loosen the outlet line and fluid sprays cool and slowly gets warmer. Tighten line back up and watch the hptuners scanner as the temps rise while idling and fan running. Shut it down at 185*. Trans pan is very hot. could only touch it for 2 secs. So return is blocked internally somehow is my guess.
#31
I think we've got an issue but it's definitely an odd one.
The return to the trans looks normal.
#33
For what its worth I was having almost the exact same issue with my 4l80e (installed in a 2001 camaro) a few months ago. However it was a high mileage junkyard unit. It would operate fine when cool, but when it warmed up it tended to drag down and/or stall the engine at idle. Especially in reverse. When starting off from a stand still, the engine would seem like it was under load until it reached three or four mph and it would then free up. I too thought it was a torque converter issue. I changed the torque converted, but still had the same issue. I then got another 4l80e and changed the transmission, but used the same converter. This fixed the issue. I have not taken the old trans apart yet, but it had to be an internal issue. Things are working great now.
#34
Yeah,
The thermal difference is what makes this a confusing deal. I suspect an internal problem at this point but I don't have a clue what it could be.
A 4L80E if you use an early model drive tube in a 97-up unit it will block cooler/lube flow, but it will always be blocked, not good cold and stopped hot.
It has me curious to see what the cause is.
The thermal difference is what makes this a confusing deal. I suspect an internal problem at this point but I don't have a clue what it could be.
A 4L80E if you use an early model drive tube in a 97-up unit it will block cooler/lube flow, but it will always be blocked, not good cold and stopped hot.
It has me curious to see what the cause is.
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Well put a blowgun on the return port and pressurized the port and I heard the air bleeding out and fluid started flowing out the unhooked line. This was done on a cool transmission though. I haven't bumped up idle but the temps keep rising over 200 even when cruising and the RPM is definitely higher then. Im lost. Everything keeps checking out.
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Ill do the same today on a hot trans when its acting up but Ill do it into the line coming out of the cooler and into the transmission and see if it pushes fluid again. With the big headers theres just way to many way to burn the heck out of myself when trying to access the return port haha.
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Drove the truck a few miles until it acted up and brought it home. Removed the line from the cooler that goes to the return port on the trans and put the blowgun to it. At first nothing went through and started spraying fluid out the hose around the air nozzle kept trying and after maybe 5 mins or so once I got back and turned the engine off it started pushing fluid through the trans again and out the cooler.
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Thanks Jake and Chris for all the help. Jake the newest version of the transmission seems to be perfect. Put it in late saturday night and put 200 miles on it yesterday hauling a deep freezer and starting to work on the tune. Ive gotten a few compliments on how crisp and clean the WOT shifts are. The CircleD Convertor rocks. Never been in a stalled car before but I must say its addicting putting the rpms up to 3000rpms and giving it hell!